New shop electrical ideas

[bsshog40]

So we just bought a house and I'm having to put a shop in. I had a 24'x60' which I divided in half for shop and mancave. This one will be a 24'x30' with 13' height. They're suppose to start the building in a couple weeks. Slab is already done. I will be doing the electrical myself. I have an open 60amp at the house that was used for an old barn by the former owners. The shop will be about 50' from the house. I plan on running 6ga from the house to the shop panel. I haven't decided if I want to run lights down the center of the shop on one 20amp circuit or run a row on each side of the shop on separate 20amp curcuits. My big tools are my 48" lathe, 17" bandsaw, tablesaw and compressor. These will be running on 30amp breakers with 10ga wire. I don't run these at the same time, so was thinking of just running 2 circuits, 1 down each side of shop with 3 outlets on each circuit. The rest will be regular 20amp breakers on 12ga wire. I will put in plenty of those for my smaller tools like sanders, grinder, buffer etc.....I am also going to run 2-220v outlets, 1 one each side of the shop off one breaker. I don't have anything 220v but just to have them.
So does this sound ok or is there something you would do different? I will eventually insulate and and cover the walls with plywood/particle board. Was also just gonna run all romex, so no conduit inside, except for maybe lighting runs, as it will be covered with inside walls. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.
Bobby

 

[Edgar]

That's pretty much what I did for my 30'x50' shop & garage. I ran two rows of lights on separate circuits. I ran several 20A & 30A circuits and I believe my wiring sizes are the same as yours (that was 25 years ago) & it has worked well for me and has met all my additional needs since then. I also have a 220V circuit that I've never used, but it's there. I also insulated the walls & covered them with pegboard.

I live in the county, so it was no problem for me to do the wiring myself.

Have fun!

 

[Dieseldoc]

Bobby: Be sure to check local building code to insure it't going to be up to code. If not could cause problems with insurance if you have a loss.

 

[bsshog40]

Yea, I'm in the county also @Edgar, so no issues there either. Thanks for the response.

 

[bsshog40]

Bobby: Be sure to check local building code to insure it't going to be up to code. If not could cause problems with insurance if you have a loss.

I live in the county so not a problem with following code. Not sure how insurance would deal with it, but I do plan on running everything with safety and wire security in mind to prevent any future electrical issues.

 

[Curly]

You don't mention dust collection. Now is the time to consider getting a bigger system like a ClearVue, Oneida, or favourite brand. Having a DC and lathe or table saw running at the same time wouldn't be unusual and if like me the air compressor is on all the time it may kick in while the others are running. I have 16 LED fixtures (4000 Lumens each) on 2 circuits and those breakers are only 15 amp. They put out a lot of light and don't draw a lot of power fortunately. The shop is 24' x 28' and averages 10' high (scissor trusses) so not much smaller than you are planning. Always seems that no matter how many plugs you have more would be nice. Consider placing them above the 4' mark so they are reachable when plywood, benches or machines are in front to get at them easily.

 

[bsshog40]

Thanks @Curly Ya I plan on running the outlets that height. I never had a reason for dust collection. I'm a little ocd, and vacuum lathe and saws after each use. As for the compressor, the switch stays off until I need it. I do have vacuum attachments for my sanders and small planer.

 

[monophoto]

I like the idea of having two lighting circuits, and having them separate from receptacle circuits that feed machines.

If something bad were to happen with a machine, the last thing that you want to have happen at the same time is for the lights to go out.

 

[jecinco]

You can never have too many outlets, if you have the opportunity to add them do it. I built two years ago and actually put a 200 Amp service for the house and a 200 amp service in the garage for the shop and FROG. Added a 5 Ton Split unit to heat and cool the garage and FROG. My lathes 2 (3520 and 4224 powermatics) , compressor. air handler, jointer and planer all run 220. The rest of the equipment runs 110. the car charger is a 50 Amp circuit. I put outlets every 6 feet as well as a few in the ceiling ( 14") for drop down lines. Also added a whole house generator to keep everything running since we are in prime hurricane country (coastal NC). Coast more than I planned but a lot less than adding it after the build was done. Good luck

 

[Ray-CA]

So we just bought a house and I'm having to put a shop in. I had a 24'x60' which I divided in half for shop and mancave. This one will be a 24'x30' with 13' height. They're suppose to start the building in a couple weeks. Slab is already done. I will be doing the electrical myself. I have an open 60amp at the house that was used for an old barn by the former owners. The shop will be about 50' from the house. I plan on running 6ga from the house to the shop panel. I haven't decided if I want to run lights down the center of the shop on one 20amp circuit or run a row on each side of the shop on separate 20amp curcuits. My big tools are my 48" lathe, 17" bandsaw, tablesaw and compressor. These will be running on 30amp breakers with 10ga wire. I don't run these at the same time, so was thinking of just running 2 circuits, 1 down each side of shop with 3 outlets on each circuit. The rest will be regular 20amp breakers on 12ga wire. I will put in plenty of those for my smaller tools like sanders, grinder, buffer etc.....I am also going to run 2-220v outlets, 1 one each side of the shop off one breaker. I don't have anything 220v but just to have them.
So does this sound ok or is there something you would do different? I will eventually insulate and and cover the walls with plywood/particle board. Was also just gonna run all romex, so no conduit inside, except for maybe lighting runs, as it will be covered with inside walls. Any thoughts or ideas are appreciated.
Bobby

Use the 4-gang outlet boxes, run one circuit to one outlet and another one to the second. Use different color outlets (I used black and white) to indicate the circuit. This way you can plug in two different tools in the same location but not overload the circuit. I have outlets every 4-feet and about 50-inches off the floor (can't be hidden behind 4x8 material.)

 

[bsshog40]

Use the 4-gang outlet boxes, run one circuit to one outlet and another one to the second. Use different color outlets (I used black and white) to indicate the circuit. This way you can plug in two different tools in the same location but not overload the circuit. I have outlets every 4-feet and about 50-inches off the floor (can't be hidden behind 4x8 material.)

Ya, this is what I had in my other shop. Wherever I had a 30amp plug, it was a 4 gang box with a 20amp plug also. It was good by my lathe so I could hang an alternate light over it.

 

[bsshog40]

You can never have too many outlets, if you have the opportunity to add them do it. I built two years ago and actually put a 200 Amp service for the house and a 200 amp service in the garage for the shop and FROG. Added a 5 Ton Split unit to heat and cool the garage and FROG. My lathes 2 (3520 and 4224 powermatics) , compressor. air handler, jointer and planer all run 220. The rest of the equipment runs 110. the car charger is a 50 Amp circuit. I put outlets every 6 feet as well as a few in the ceiling ( 14") for drop down lines. Also added a whole house generator to keep everything running since we are in prime hurricane country (coastal NC). Coast more than I planned but a lot less than adding it after the build was done. Good luck

Yep, always believed you can never have too many outlets. Lol. My house is 200amp. Still has the open 60amp that I will run to the shop. My former shop was there when we bought the house. They had it running off a 50amp from the house which only had a 140amp service. Never did like that setup but it never gave me any problems. I plan on framing in an opening for a 110 ac unit in the middle somewhere. I also have a 26,000 btu kerosene heater that I've used for heat. A little loud but does the trick. Lol This house already had a 22kw generac installed, so that will be nice if needed.

 

[jttheclockman]

A couple things is I would not put 2 circuits in the same box. You are over thinking it. Never will you overload a 20 amp outlet with 2 tools running unless they are over sized already. Just run separate circuits every other set of outlets. 6 outlets per each 20 amp circuit. Use 20 amp outlets. You can designate a separate circuit for a high amp tool but use a single outlet so nothing else gets plugged into that circuit or hard wire the tool. You go over 6 breakers or six handles you need a main at that panel. Lights are always on a separate circuit I would use a battery backup power light for safe exit. I would not waste 2 circuits for lighting. Todays lights are way too efficient and draw so little. Just split the switches if you want 2 rows. I would look at the larger tools to see if they can converted to 220. I would not count on you being the only person working in the shop. Plan ahead. Draw up a logical plan of layout and it will safe you in the long run.

 

[Gary Beasley]

In my shop I have the lighting circuits run to outlets at the ceiling so I can add or move lights as needed without having to rewire. One added advantage here is I plugged my worklights into the overhead circuit so if I forgot to turn one out my light switch gets them shut off.

 

[bsshog40]

My outlet design may change after the shop gets put in. Right now I have no idea what I will be mounting outlets to nor the space between supports. I guess I'll cross that bridge when I get to it. I have a tendency to move things after awhile when I find myself needing to relocate a tool here and there. Lol I'm only going to wire this once, so I will be making sure I can access what I need to get to for any future tool additions or space. Thanks for all the ideas my friends.

 

[zorro9]

I had a similar set up years ago, I went with 50 amps. Not enough. If u can swing 100 amps, go for it. Never know you want a/c or something else down the road.

 

[EricRN]

Lots of good info here. Although I must say I am jealous about all these shops!! I'm still working off two 110V circuits in my garage. I can get my shop vac and one power tool (table saw, lathe, or planer) running at the same time.

 

[wolf creek knives]

My thoughts Bobby for what they're worth. You can never have enough outlets!!! I put mine every 32 inches at 4' off the floor. Works great and the other thing I did was make sure I had 220v outside the shop for welding. Good luck on your new shop and I look forward to seeing some of your great work in the very near future. Good luck my friend!

 

[bsshog40]

I had a similar set up years ago, I went with 50 amps. Not enough. If u can swing 100 amps, go for it. Never know you want a/c or something else down the road.

My last shop was 50amp. Never had any issues with what I do. Will probably just put in a window a/c unit. The shop won't be near as bad for heating and cooling as my last shop. It was a 24x60. I don't do large projects, just mainly crafty stuff to keep me busy.

 

[bsshog40]

My thoughts Bobby for what they're worth. You can never have enough outlets!!! I put mine every 32 inches at 4' off the floor. Works great and the other thing I did was make sure I had 220v outside the shop for welding. Good luck on your new shop and I look forward to seeing some of your great work in the very near future. Good luck my friend!

Thanks Tom. I am gonna add a 220v outlet on each side of the shop, inside though. I don't have anything 220v but my 17" bandsaw but it is setup for 110v. Works just fine for me. The welder I have is a little HF 110v wire welder. I think I've used it 2 times in the last 3 years. Lol Plenty of outlets will be the priority though. I don't like using extension cords inside the shop for anything unless I have to. It's gonna take a little time to get to the point where I can work. Romex is very high priced right now which will slow me down for bit. Hope to finish it by summer.

 

[gimpy]

I recently had a 28x40 built……to small……
I had the electrical outlets for my machines in the ceiling
to prevent tripping hazards …….using twist locks

 

[bsshog40]

I recently had a 28x40 built……to small……
I had the electrical outlets for my machines in the ceiling
to prevent tripping hazards …….using twist locks

I think the the 24x30 will suit me fine. I divided my 24x60 with pvc plastic walls. Half was my shop and the other half was my man cave. Gonna miss my mancave area but the shop should be workable.

 

[wolf creek knives]

Thanks Tom. I am gonna add a 220v outlet on each side of the shop, inside though. I don't have anything 220v but my 17" bandsaw but it is setup for 110v. Works just fine for me. The welder I have is a little HF 110v wire welder. I think I've used it 2 times in the last 3 years. Lol Plenty of outlets will be the priority though. I don't like using extension cords inside the shop for anything unless I have to. It's gonna take a little time to get to the point where I can work. Romex is very high priced right now which will slow me down for bit. Hope to finish it by summer.

I know that Lowes and Home Depot do military discounts but you have to show them your DD214 and then they set you up with an account. The only problem I've ever run into with Home Depot is that sometimes they restrict what they will give the discount on. Last time I tried to buy Romex at Home Depot they didn't discount it, so I went to Lowes and they did.

 

[jeff]

A couple things is I would not put 2 circuits in the same box. You are over thinking it. Never will you overload a 20 amp outlet with 2 tools running unless they are over sized already. Just run separate circuits every other set of outlets. 6 outlets per each 20 amp circuit. Use 20 amp outlets. You can designate a separate circuit for a high amp tool but use a single outlet so nothing else gets plugged into that circuit or hard wire the tool. You go over 6 breakers or six handles you need a main at that panel. Lights are always on a separate circuit I would use a battery backup power light for safe exit. I would not waste 2 circuits for lighting. Todays lights are way too efficient and draw so little. Just split the switches if you want 2 rows. I would look at the larger tools to see if they can converted to 220. I would not count on you being the only person working in the shop. Plan ahead. Draw up a logical plan of layout and it will safe you in the long run.

I agree that multiple circuits in a single box is ill-advised unless they are on a common disconnect. How about a MWBC for outlets? 12-3 to each box, and a two-pole GFCI breaker. Since it's a new panel, should be classified for that.

The 6-throw rule was changed significantly in the 2020 NEC. Up to 6 are still permitted, but they have to be in physically separate panels or compartments. Since he's putting in one new panel, it needs a main. Section 230.

Worth mentioning the need for ground rods at the outbuilding...

 

[bsshog40]

I know that Lowes and Home Depot do military discounts but you have to show them your DD214 and then they set you up with an account. The only problem I've ever run into with Home Depot is that sometimes they restrict what they will give the discount on. Last time I tried to buy Romex at Home Depot they didn't discount it, so I went to Lowes and they did.

Ya, I get discount at both stores. Home depot, you have to start an on-line account and there's a section for military. It gives you one of those scan icons that you scan with the register scanner. Lowes is easier as all you have to do is enter your phone number.

 

[MRDucks2]

I have had the Veteran's discount from Lowe's for a while but just got the Home Depot one added this year. I installed their app on my phone and went to do the Veteran's discount. I clicked on it, enter name and service dates. It verified and set me up automatically. Way easier than it used to be.

 

[RunnerVince]

Thanks @Curly Ya I plan on running the outlets that height. I never had a reason for dust collection. I'm a little ocd, and vacuum lathe and saws after each use. As for the compressor, the switch stays off until I need it. I do have vacuum attachments for my sanders and small planer.

Obligatory safety post. (I'll be that guy for today.) Aside from saving yourself a lot of work (if it goes straight into your DC system, you don't have to manually vacuum it up later), a good dust collection system keeps a ton of fine particles out of the air, where they can linger for 20 minutes even when there's nothing else going on. As someone who has had respiratory issues, I can advise that you take care of your lungs--life sucks when your lungs don't. So wear a respirator as a first line of defense, and use a DC as a backup (for all the crap that's still in the air after you finish sanding and have turned off your machine and taken off your respirator).
Of course, it's not my shop, or my budget, but dust collection is at least something to think about, and if you can make free/cheap accommodations now for future use, that might be another route.

 

[jttheclockman]

I agree that multiple circuits in a single box is ill-advised unless they are on a common disconnect. How about a MWBC for outlets? 12-3 to each box, and a two-pole GFCI breaker. Since it's a new panel, should be classified for that.

The 6-throw rule was changed significantly in the 2020 NEC. Up to 6 are still permitted, but they have to be in physically separate panels or compartments. Since he's putting in one new panel, it needs a main. Section 230.

Worth mentioning the need for ground rods at the outbuilding...

Jeff, you are correct with your thinking but a couple things here. Sounds like this is being done uninspected and sort of on the QT. Every circuit today has to have its own neutral. You can not run a 3 wire and share neutral any more. Want to get technical and do things by the book, every switch needs a neutral at the switch weather it is used or not. The 6handle rule of 2020 code just eliminated the "clause for use" of main breaker and no main breaker in subpanels but it does not specify that you need one or not. It is vague and left to the owner and also sub codes of towns. You can use a disconnect main breaker as the main breaker as opposed to having one in the panel but again a choice. The disconnect garage thing and grounding is something that is subjective and I am fuzzy on because you would need to drive ground rod and have ground system isolated main system. Have read this 2 ways and would have to talk to inspector about this new change. Have been out of the game a long time and do not follow all upgrades on codes and again each state and county have their own codes on top of the NEC. I did not want to get into the technical aspects of wiring and doing electrical work in any threads but thought some basic ideas would not hurt.

 

[bsshog40]

I appreciate all the advice. Not the first time I had to put in all new wire in shop. I'm pretty ocd and safety minded. I live in Texas and in the county. They could care less if I ran 20 extension cords from the house to power the shop. Lol But I won't be doing that. Lol Except maybe one to have a light while I work. Lol

 

[jeff]

Jeff, you are correct with your thinking but a couple things here. Sounds like this is being done uninspected and sort of on the QT. Every circuit today has to have its own neutral. You can not run a 3 wire and share neutral any more. Want to get technical and do things by the book, every switch needs a neutral at the switch weather it is used or not. The 6handle rule of 2020 code just eliminated the "clause for use" of main breaker and no main breaker in subpanels but it does not specify that you need one or not. It is vague and left to the owner and also sub codes of towns. You can use a disconnect main breaker as the main breaker as opposed to having one in the panel but again a choice. The disconnect garage thing and grounding is something that is subjective and I am fuzzy on because you would need to drive ground rod and have ground system isolated main system. Have read this 2 ways and would have to talk to inspector about this new change. Have been out of the game a long time and do not follow all upgrades on codes and again each state and county have their own codes on top of the NEC. I did not want to get into the technical aspects of wiring and doing electrical work in any threads but thought some basic ideas would not hurt.

Multiwire Branch Circuits are definitely allowed. Key points are that the circuits must originate from the same panel and simultaneous disconnection is required (i.e. 2 pole breaker). See 210.4 That said, 2-pole GFCI breakers aren't cheap, so two separate circuits might even be cheaper.

You don't need a main breaker, but you definitely need a disconnect for a separate building. A non-fused disconnect ahead of a main lug panel is acceptable, as is a main breaker panel. See 230.71 In the case of a main breaker in the subpanel, it's not protecting the feeder, it's just there as a disconnect.

The grounding is not subjective. Separate structure requires a ground rod. See 250.32

I don't think we're too deep in the weeds Always good to mention things that improve safety.

 

[howsitwork]

Not up on USA set up but can I suggest a couple of emergency self contained fire lights ? If you ever trip the breaker and everything goes out ( ok in theory it can't happen but my theories have been proved wrong several times over last 20 years ) then it's really nice when the emergency lights kick in and you can see the blade stop spinning before you move from the saw!

Not expensive and great peace of mind when you need them . Suggest one or two central and one over the doorway.

 

[bsshog40]

Multiwire Branch Circuits are definitely allowed. Key points are that the circuits must originate from the same panel and simultaneous disconnection is required (i.e. 2 pole breaker). See 210.4 That said, 2-pole GFCI breakers aren't cheap, so two separate circuits might even be cheaper.

You don't need a main breaker, but you definitely need a disconnect for a separate building. A non-fused disconnect ahead of a main lug panel is acceptable, as is a main breaker panel. See 230.71 In the case of a main breaker in the subpanel, it's not protecting the feeder, it's just there as a disconnect.

The grounding is not subjective. Separate structure requires a ground rod. See 250.32

I don't think we're too deep in the weeds Always good to mention things that improve safety.

Not much on the code lingo Jeff. I will be running a line from a 60amp breaker at my main panel at the house. I will then be putting another panel in the shop with a 60amp main breaker. Then the curcuits to follow for everything else. I would presume that my house panel should already be grounded by the electric company. My house panel sits inside directly behind my outside meter. I will be running a 6/4 romex so I should have ground, neutral and black and red to get 220v to the shop.

 

[bsshog40]

Not up on USA set up but can I suggest a couple of emergency self contained fire lights ? If you ever trip the breaker and everything goes out ( ok in theory it can't happen but my theories have been proved wrong several times over last 20 years ) then it's really nice when the emergency lights kick in and you can see the blade stop spinning before you move from the saw!

Not expensive and great peace of mind when you need them . Suggest one or two central and one over the doorway.

Ya, I can see this being a good idea for a large shop. I usually keep my phone in my back pocket when working. If lights go out, phone has a light. Lol

 

[jeff]

Not much on the code lingo Jeff. I will be running a line from a 60amp breaker at my main panel at the house. I will then be putting another panel in the shop with a 60amp main breaker. Then the curcuits to follow for everything else. I would presume that my house panel should already be grounded by the electric company. My house panel sits inside directly behind my outside meter. I will be running a 6/4 romex so I should have ground, neutral and black and red to get 220v to the shop.

Yes, there are one or two ground rods outside your house close to the service entry point which are tied to your panel probably with a bare copper #6. If there's no disconnect between your meter and your panel, then the ground and neutral are tied together in your panel. (The neutral is tied to ground at the first point of disconnection -- it's probably your panel inside.)

The ground rod(s) at the new panel are for lighting protection. That thing is called the Grounding Electrode Conductor. The ground going back to your main panel is the Equipment Grounding Conductor and it's to carry short circuit current back to the source.

You are probably aware that after your main panel, you don't tie ground and neutral together at a subpanel. I didn't see that mentioned above so I thought I'd note it.

Sounds like you'll have a great shop electrical system!

 

[jttheclockman]

Multiwire Branch Circuits are definitely allowed. Key points are that the circuits must originate from the same panel and simultaneous disconnection is required (i.e. 2 pole breaker). See 210.4 That said, 2-pole GFCI breakers aren't cheap, so two separate circuits might even be cheaper.

I did not want to get into this for this very reason. Whenever giving electrical advice on this forum or any other forum I just refrain from doing it. Your knowledge is legit so if you want to, go for it. Just too many rules need to be followed to pass this code. I posted that no 2 circuits should share a neutral because in layman's terms it is easier to understand. The days that most grew up with is to run a 3 wire circuit and have individual breakers on the black and red and share the white. It is in many houses as well as many job sites. I posted not a good idea to run 2 circuits to same box because of chance of electrocution because they did not shut off both circuits even if they had individual neutrals.

You don't need a main breaker, but you definitely need a disconnect for a separate building. A non-fused disconnect ahead of a main lug panel is acceptable, as is a main breaker panel. See 230.71 In the case of a main breaker in the subpanel, it's not protecting the feeder, it's just there as a disconnect.

This is true but I probably worded it wrong, since 2020. You do not need a main breaker but need a disconnect in its own enclosure.

The grounding is not subjective. Separate structure requires a ground rod. See 250.32

I don't think we're too deep in the weeds Always good to mention things that improve safety.

I will leave the grounding thing alone.

Getting in the weeds? Well when people talk about installing their own electrical panels and work I cringe. Maybe they have the knowledge and maybe they do not. Again many things get unsaid and unless the person knows what they are doing then go for it but it would be wise to have an electrician who is from their area that also knows the city and county codes because the NEC is only the bare minimum. Out where no one checks the work do as you see fit but live with consequences if something goes wrong. I have seen people put in subpanels with no regard for sizing to feed and needs. In years gone by they keep adding breakers. I am done with this thread and have broken my own golden rule of not giving advice when it comes to electrical work. Codes keep changing and I know myself I do not keep up and really have no need to. Good luck to OP.

 

[bsshog40]

Thanks for all the help! Thanks @jeff
Also thanks @jttheclockman
Btw, I have found out in the 2 months we have been here that we live in a very close nit community. I gave the old stove that was in our house to our local Bowie Cass Electric Company guy who lives up the road, for his hunting cabin, who is the brother-n-law to the guy I bought the house from. Our closest neighbors, who are all related to each other, are about a half mile away and all this land around us has been in the family for over a hundred years. Lol I'll be getting with our electric guy with my plans before I start. Thanks y'all!

 

[TellicoTurning]

I think the the 24x30 will suit me fine. I divided my 24x60 with pvc plastic walls. Half was my shop and the other half was my man cave. Gonna miss my mancave area but the shop should be workable.

My 12x24 shop IS my man cave.

 

[Jarod888]

With led lights now, I don't think you need to run 3 circuits for lights, especially 3 20 amp circuits. I would run 2, 1 for down the middle with a couple of extra ceiling outlets and the other for the ones down each side.
Run a separate 20 amp circuit for each wall, just for outlets.
Your big tools should have their own dedicated circuit.
Also consider run a spare 20 amp circuit for the ceiling for an air cleaner upgrade in the future.

 

[MRDucks2]

One thing I just thought about as I sit in my shop, which is my 4th and all different, is to consider how the shop will be used by you.

I realized, I believe on someone else's wisdom, that I was a one man hobby shop. Other than dust collection, I would never run two tools at once.

I have single 220 volt circuit with both the lathe and the table saw on it. I will never run them both at the same time and one has a soft start while the other is on a Variable Frequency Drive with adjustable start. Amps will never be a problem so no need to waste copper. Especially today.

 

[bsshog40]

One thing I just thought about as I sit in my shop, which is my 4th and all different, is to consider how the shop will be used by you.

I realized, I believe on someone else's wisdom, that I was a one man hobby shop. Other than dust collection, I would never run two tools at once.

I have single 220 volt circuit with both the lathe and the table saw on it. I will never run them both at the same time and one has a soft start while the other is on a Variable Frequency Drive with adjustable start. Amps will never be a problem so no need to waste copper. Especially today.

Likewise!