MatthewZS
Member
Anyone have any secret magical places to buy bandsaw blades withOUT the highway robbery?
someplace online maybe with cheap shipping?
Thanks.
someplace online maybe with cheap shipping?
Thanks.
Bandsaw blades.
- Thread starter MatthewZS
- Start date
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Craftdiggity
Member
its_virgil
Member
So do I. They sell Timberwolf blades for 1/3 the price at Woodcraft and other places. No online ordering. Get the phone number from the website. Look for the buy 3 get one free info.
Do a good turn daily!
Don
Do a good turn daily!
Don
lorbay
Member
ldb2000
Member
These are the blades I use http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/woodslicer12resawbandsawblades705to137.aspx they make my cheap HF bandsaw cut like a much more expensive saw . I've cut 8" paper thin venners from walnut with little effort . Great price too .
PenMan1
Member
Yep, the Woodslicer is the best bang for the buck that I have found. IMHO, they cut as well or better than Timberwolf and priced much better...AND they are close to home!
ldb2000
Member
They also stay sharper much longer . I was going through Timberwolf blades every 3 months , the Wood slicer has been on my saw for over 2 years and I've only had to sharpen it twice . It also has one of the thinest kerfs , you waste far less wood with them .
RHossack
Member
Before I found I had a local Lenox dealer to cut and weld on the spot I was using these chaps.
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/
http://www.woodcraftbands.com/
ctubbs
Member
jskeen
Member
If you get into houston, try these guys. http://circlesaw.com/ they do custom cut and weld, have dozens of different sizes and configurations on site, and you can walk in and out with what you need with no shipping!
What a concept!
What a concept!
bruce119
Member
I agree the best blades there is and with the buy 3 get one free. I use 1/2" 3AS it is a thicker .032 blade chews rite though the wood cuts straight and is the best out there.
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alphageek
Former Moderator
Just to share a tidbit that one of my woodworking guild guys shared.. The way the woodslicer blades (talked about above) are made, they are GREAT for cutting straight (veneers, etc), but if you want to cut curves, don't.
He said after cutting a few curves with it, it didn't want to cut any more... not even pine. So he said to make sure to switch out the blade for anything other than straight.
He said after cutting a few curves with it, it didn't want to cut any more... not even pine. So he said to make sure to switch out the blade for anything other than straight.
PenMan1
Member
Andrew
Highland hardware makes no promises for curves on their 1/2 woodslicer blade. They will tell you up front, it is a resaw blade.
Highland hardware makes no promises for curves on their 1/2 woodslicer blade. They will tell you up front, it is a resaw blade.
ldb2000
Member
Andy is correct , Highland sells these blades for resaw cuts , they also work great for rip and cross cuts but only in straight lines .
For curved cuts I use the cheapest blades I can find and replace them often . Cutting curves is very bad for bandsaw blades , it generates lots of heat as the blade passes through the kerf , the sides of the blade are in constant contact with the wood and the friction heats the blade to high enough temperatures to take the temper out of the blade very quickly .
For curved cuts I use the cheapest blades I can find and replace them often . Cutting curves is very bad for bandsaw blades , it generates lots of heat as the blade passes through the kerf , the sides of the blade are in constant contact with the wood and the friction heats the blade to high enough temperatures to take the temper out of the blade very quickly .
alphageek
Former Moderator
Thats completely logical!! I just wanted to point it out because a couple were recommending the woodslicer, and since the OP didn't state what he used them for I would hate to see that get missed.
bruce119
Member
I took a quick look at the woodslicer site I read that they are not recommended for green wood. That is 90% of my cutting green logs into blanks and bowl blanks so I do cut round from time to time. I am happy with the timber wolf I had the lenox and was disappointed cheaper blade but didn't stand up to the timber wolf. I can resharpen the timber wolf myself 2 or 3 times before I replace. There are how tos on you tube it's easy and quick with a dremel and a cut off wheel. I also have 2 of the German Laugna carbide blades that are $180 each I got in a group buy. And I am disappointed in them they make a beautiful polished cut. But they are specialized and mine dulled very fast for the money. I sent one back to be resharpened and I need to send both back again. I haven't found anything better than the timber wolf.
Just my opinion and you know what that is worth.
.
Just my opinion and you know what that is worth.
.
PenMan1
Member
Bruce, I think you nailed it. A great bandsaw blade varies greatly on the intended use, the user, the type of wood (or as is often the case with me, other materials) and many other variables. One user's "best blade" could be another's nightmare!
MatthewZS
Member
MatthewZS
Member
Oh, and thank you all so far for he information, this is why I love this forum... the members are just so full of it
Oh you know what I mean!
Oh you know what I mean!
alphageek
Former Moderator
MatthewZS said:Oh, and thank you all so far for he information, this is why I love this forum... the members are just so full of it
Hey I resemble that remark! Lol
low_48
Member
I buy rolls of blade stock on Ebay and silver solder them myself. I paid $50 for a 250' roll the last time. The first time I tried this years ago, I bought the silver solder kit from Woodcraft. Now I buy the supplies from the local weld shop. The process works great with a propane torch, and works great with those big 3/4" 3 tooth blades.
rherrell
Member
hewunch
Member
The guys at Gotwood use these. They saw more stuff in a week than most of us do in a year. http://spencedistributors.com/index.cfm