Bandsaw blades.

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They also stay sharper much longer . I was going through Timberwolf blades every 3 months , the Wood slicer has been on my saw for over 2 years and I've only had to sharpen it twice . It also has one of the thinest kerfs , you waste far less wood with them .
 
Just to share a tidbit that one of my woodworking guild guys shared.. The way the woodslicer blades (talked about above) are made, they are GREAT for cutting straight (veneers, etc), but if you want to cut curves, don't.

He said after cutting a few curves with it, it didn't want to cut any more... not even pine. So he said to make sure to switch out the blade for anything other than straight.
 
Andrew

Highland hardware makes no promises for curves on their 1/2 woodslicer blade. They will tell you up front, it is a resaw blade.
 
Andy is correct , Highland sells these blades for resaw cuts , they also work great for rip and cross cuts but only in straight lines .
For curved cuts I use the cheapest blades I can find and replace them often . Cutting curves is very bad for bandsaw blades , it generates lots of heat as the blade passes through the kerf , the sides of the blade are in constant contact with the wood and the friction heats the blade to high enough temperatures to take the temper out of the blade very quickly .
 
ldb2000 said:
Andy is correct , Highland sells these blades for resaw cuts , they also work great for rip and cross cuts but only in straight lines .
For curved cuts I use the cheapest blades I can find and replace them often . Cutting curves is very bad for bandsaw blades , it generates lots of heat as the blade passes through the kerf , the sides of the blade are in constant contact with the wood and the friction heats the blade to high enough temperatures to take the temper out of the blade very quickly .
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Thats completely logical!! I just wanted to point it out because a couple were recommending the woodslicer, and since the OP didn't state what he used them for I would hate to see that get missed.
 
I took a quick look at the woodslicer site I read that they are not recommended for green wood. That is 90% of my cutting green logs into blanks and bowl blanks so I do cut round from time to time. I am happy with the timber wolf I had the lenox and was disappointed cheaper blade but didn't stand up to the timber wolf. I can resharpen the timber wolf myself 2 or 3 times before I replace. There are how tos on you tube it's easy and quick with a dremel and a cut off wheel. I also have 2 of the German Laugna carbide blades that are $180 each I got in a group buy. And I am disappointed in them they make a beautiful polished cut. But they are specialized and mine dulled very fast for the money. I sent one back to be resharpened and I need to send both back again. I haven't found anything better than the timber wolf.

Just my opinion and you know what that is worth.

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Bruce, I think you nailed it. A great bandsaw blade varies greatly on the intended use, the user, the type of wood (or as is often the case with me, other materials) and many other variables. One user's "best blade" could be another's nightmare!
 
alphageek said:
ldb2000 said:
......since the OP didn't state what he used them for ..........
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I figured anyplace that carried ANY quality blades for a good price would suffice accross the board (no pun intended) but there are two saws I'd like to locate a blade source for, a smaller jet with a 1/4 inch blade for finer detail work, and a larger Jet that I keep a 1 inch blade in for resawing and rought work, no detail, no curved stuff. The big one tends to cut ALOT of ebony too, so I need a blade with some hutspah!
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I buy rolls of blade stock on Ebay and silver solder them myself. I paid $50 for a 250' roll the last time. The first time I tried this years ago, I bought the silver solder kit from Woodcraft. Now I buy the supplies from the local weld shop. The process works great with a propane torch, and works great with those big 3/4" 3 tooth blades.
 
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