Scroll saw or bandsaw for segmented pens?

[angboy]

Someone posted a pen in the show off section and there was some discussion about using a scroll saw versus a bandsaw for cutting segmented pens, particularly where you stack 2 blanks on top of each other, so they're cut the same, and then you swap halves. So what do people think- which works better for being sure that you'll get matching cuts so the opposite halves can be glued together? I've tried it a couple of times with my bandsaw, and sometimes it seem to work great, but other times I've ended up with gaps when I glue them together and I've just trashed them. Anyone have both and have a preference?

 

[wood-of-1kind]

How thick is the blade of your bandsaw and TPI (tooth per inch)? Therein may lie part of the problem that you are facing. Personally I prefer the use of a bandaw vs. scroll for the simple reason of 'power' that is applied in cutting a 3/4" blank.

-Peter-[]

 

[ctEaglesc]

Cutting two blanks at the same time and switching the parts on the surface seems like a simple thing to do.You will always have some type of a gap.Why? the kerf removed by the blade is where the gap comes in.This is what forms the wide glue line or the gaps you mention.
A more exacting(and time consuming) method would be to cut one piece, use it as a pattern and cut the mating piece leavine the line.To get a perfect mating piece will probably require sanding the cut up to but not taking out the line.
There is nothing wrong with a glue line as long as it is uniform, it can also be part of the design.The thinner the glue line the better though.
This is an important part of the laminated blanks I make.The material removed by the saw blade(kerf) needs to be replaced otherwise the pattern "jumps" on subsequent cuts.
As far as "power" is concerned, I will lean towards accuracy every time.Based on the intricacy of the cuts I normally go with the scroll saw, others are more confident with a bandsaw.
I have yet to see a bandsaw blade that is as thin as what I sometimes use in a scroll saw(.010 which is thinner than 2 thicknesses of blue masking tape)
(edit in)
A bandsaw is a wonderful tool and to use it to its' best advantage like any tool it should be "tweaked".Not all tools are made to the same standards, but if the the blade is sharp and a true(90* to the table) and as vibration free as possible you will get better results.
For me a bandsaw is a roughing tool where others use it for very intricate work in thicker stock. The resulting cuts for me always reuire sanding( read more time at a task I don't care for).

 

[Ron in Drums PA]

Bottom line: depending on the design, either will work.

I use a scroll saw because I like the smooth cut and the small kerf.

 

[tipusnr]

My scroll saw won't turn straight (on the perpendicular) through stacked blanks so I can't swap them out and get a match. The blade bows as it goes through. It is an old Craftsman saw with a new scroller at the controls. Bad mix!

 

[ctEaglesc]

Tip_
Is it pin or pinless?
You can get pinless blades much thinner thain pinned.
Other thoughts.
Id the blade square to the table and is the stock flat?
to align the blade make a kerf(not too deep) in a piece of stock.Take the same piece and put it behind the blade with the kerf facing you.
If the blade is square to the table the blade will fit in the kerf with no problems.If it doesn't align the table.
As far as the blade "bowing" it sounds like the tension isn't tight enough.

 

[tipusnr]

It's pinned. I'll check the table for square and try to figure out where the tension adjustment is!! This was some sort of demo and doesn't even have a model number so I can't get parts for it.