This is from an email I sent out to someone a few weeks ago. I hope it helps others too.
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As for the sled, this is one that I threw together after my last one got left out in the rain by my son. It is based on info from numerous places. This picture shows it from the front so you could see the details of the T-track.
It is made out of 3/4" birch ply with red oak scraps as ends and sliders. I'm finding that it still isn't stiff enough so the next one will have box ends. (ignore the long strip on the right, that is just a piece of scrap under the sled).
I added the T-slot to the back to make it easy to adjust the rip fence. The rip fence itself is designed based on <
http://www.davidreedsmith.com/Articles/VacuumRipFence/VacuumRipFence.htm>.
The black knob on the far left is the micro-adjust for the rip fence.
There is a 1/4-20 screw going through that block into the end of the rip fence. 1/4-20 means 1 turn is .05" and I marked the bolt with 5 even spaces so each space is .01" and I guesstimate between those. If I had a metal lathe I would make my own bolt so I could get finer threads.
The angled block on the right is the cutoff sled cutting the actual inlay kerfs.
It is held tight to the fence by that vertical bolt. The end of the bolt is beveled and I drilled a beveled hole in the sled slightly too far out from the fence. When I tighten the bolt it hits the inside bevel of the counter-sink hole and pulls the cutoff sled tight. The angle is 37.5 degrees. I use the rip fence as a stop so that that each kerf is in the exact same place.
Lastly you asked about the specific blade. Originally I was using the LU96R010 which has a .091" kerf but it went dull and I couldn't find a exact replacement so the current one is the TK806 which has a nominal .098" kerf. Sadly mine has a slight wobble so my kerfs come out at .104". Just FYI, in case you didn't already know, Eagle always recommended the Freud 7-1/4" D0724 which has a .059" kerf. I just never wanted to put that on my table saw that I use for other stuff and I don't have a second saw.
Enhancements for the sled: I would make the back and front supports both taller and squarer (not a real word but you get the idea). I don't have a jointer so I used one piece of 1x12 red oak that I ripped in two, reversed the two pieces and glued them together with weights on my garage floor. They are "pretty straight" but not perfect. And, as you can see in the front one, I've almost cut through it already so it is no longer holding the sled flat. I would also use something better for the slides. The red oak binds more than I like. My last sled I used the UHMW plastic. It slid OK but was soft and wore out. Next time maybe Delrin. Lastly I would cut an notch at the bottom to catch sawdust. I currently have to blow it clear after every use or the sawdust affects the next cut.
Enhancements for the rip fence: I would make it taller. The knobs keep getting hit by the blade as I move the fence around. And I would use more of the 1/8" slices that hold the blank down. More to get the knobs further away from the blade. And I would figure out the longest piece I was ripping and only put air holes for that. I'm losing a lot of my suction through the holes in front of the piece being ripped. Oh, and I would find a way to use T-bolts in the base to tighten it to the fence. Right now I use a clamp. Lastly I would cut an notch at the bottom to catch sawdust. I currently have to blow it clear after every use or the sawdust affects the next cut.
Don't ever forget, turn off the saw before trying to reclaim your sliced segment. I got wayyy too close to the spinning blade for comfort once. It is worth the 2 minutes or so to shut it down, reclaim the wood and turn it on again.
