Painting tubes before PR casting?

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sekach

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Dec 31, 2008
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93
Location
San Diego, CA
OK, I had a big problem with my first batch of PR blanks that I tried. Here is what happened. I prepped the tubes but scratching them up and then proceeded to use Testor's all purpose model enamel paint on the tubes. I used various colors and then coated all of them with Testor's one coat lacquer to seal in some logo's that I placed on some of the tubes. I let everything dry 24 hours and then cast them in the PSI Pen Tube Cast-a-Kit resin package. Then placed them in the pressure pot that I built with the instructions on this site. When I pulled them out this morning everyone one of the tubes (except one) had paint that disolved or pulled away from the tube.....:eek: FRUSTRATION!!!!

Did I do something wrong? Use the wrong type of paint? Not properly prep the tubes before painting? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Bob
 
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Personally, I think the manufacturers and marketers of all pen kits are going to have to start offering colored (black, white, silver-that's all they need) pen tubes for every one of their kits. CSUSA offers a very few, as far as I know the rest offer none, and with the almost explosive growth in acrylics, I think they've been left in the dust. Charge a few pennies more for each kit, who cares? I've tried the Testors too, that's not the way to go. I've used spray enamel with mixed results. I do like the Magic Marker idea I just read where you pull the tip way out to reach into the blank to color it, but have yet to try it. I would try powder coating, but wow, can it get any more complicated? A whole new setup for a few pen tubes?

I've yet to see or hear of a perfect solution. I'm about ready to switch to epoxy only, and am going to try a few drops of food coloring in the epoxy as I mix it. If that works, I'll try other liquid dyes to give me gold or silver or black, and away I go if it works. CA creates some problems with any paint, and if you can color the glue itself that may be the simple way to go.

Keep trying!

Dale
 
I make a few snake skin blanks. I paint the tubes with Rust-oleum camoflauge (green) before gluing the skins. I glue the skins with CA and cast. I get excellent results.

I also make a few blanks with computer labels. I paint the tubes with Rust-Oleum Painter's Touch Primer. Peel and stick the labels and cast. I get excellent results.

I tried using all brands of magic markers and did not get excellent results.

I tried using Testors model paint and did not get good results.

I paint the hole in acrylic blanks with Rust-Oleum spray paints and have no complaint.

I do not use CA for gluing tubes. Two part epoxy works much better. It can be colored if needed.

Do a good turn daily!
Don
 
Our turning club just had Barry Gross do a demo that was around his acrylic pen kit ( PSI sells it as well ) He paints his tubes with Hi Temp engine paint , according to Barry the acrylic heats up and causes regular paint to peel and crack.
 
Woodcraft now has alot of chrome and black chrome tubes. I got them for several of my kits sizes (7mm, sierra, and cigar). WAY easier than painting... There are a few color acrylics that I still paint, but MANY of them will look good with these tubes.
 
I am thinking it was the heat that might have done in the enamel based paint so maybe looking at the rustoleum might work. I will have to test it and find out. I just wanted to get a good selection of colors since I wanted to do several football team colors for friends (i.e. Chargers, Raiders, Eagles, etc). I did manage to turn one of the kits out of the mess above and it would have been a GREAT pen if the paint hand't lifted off in a couple of small areas. Oh well...I guess I do have to run into a few roadblocks before having a good success right? At least if I tell myself that I won't give up.....(haha).

I have a snake skin on the way so I am really looking forward to doing that one.

One last question, when you printed out the labels on your printer, what kind of printer was it (inkjet, laser, etc)??? Curious if the inkjet ink would run once dipped into the resin or if you covered it, say with laquer or the Testors decal bonder? Hmmm....the endless possibilities..

Bob
 
I cast many Cactus blanks and also snake,
I also use Rustoleum and epoxy, on the castus I always tint the epoxy and never had any problems.
 
The labels are printed on my Lexmark X5470 Ink Jet printer and get no special treatment...just painted tubes if the label has a lot of white background. Otherwise the brass tube darkens the white label. I do not cover the printed label with any clear coating of any kind. Others who cast labels don't either unless I've missed something.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

sekach said:
One last question, when you printed out the labels on your printer, what kind of printer was it (inkjet, laser, etc)???
Bob
Click to expand...
 
Any time I paint or glue something to a pen tube which I intend to show in the final product, I seal it with CA. I apply the CA with a Q-tip and use no accelerator, as the fine mist of the accelerator can sometimes produce tiny bubbles which will show up and ruin your casting. Since I've been doing this, I've had excellent results.

jppensplus
 
I was painting under some of my money and snake skins and then decided to try paper. I sand my tubes, then cut small pieces of regular printer paper and coat them with a HEAVY DUTY glue stick. It gets real sticky in a couple minutes. I roll my tubes in them to cover the brass, then let them dry for about a half hour. Then I glue my shredded money or snake skin to the paper and cast like I usually do, filling the tubes with bb's and gluing to small squares to hold them up. I dont cast until the following day so the glue sets up real well. Ive had no complaints.
 
Whatever paint or coating you decide to use, test it against the PR and MEKp. The strene in the PR will melt or disolve some plastics and coatings. The MEKp is a peroxide and is corrosive. Either of these materials could be the culprit in your problems.
 
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