MT1 to M2 converter or other way around?

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cenogene

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I have my 20 year old reliable MT1 Lathe Carba-Tec III from PennStateIndustries. I recently procured a new MT2 Nova Comet II. I want to use the old one as a polishing station but can't wrap my brain around this. The old lathe has an MT1 headstock. The mandrel on the acrylic buffer is an MT2. I thought I simply needed to buy an MT1 to MT2 converter. Or should I be looking at an MT2 to MT1 converter? I'm a returning newbie with pen turning and got my head all a spinning (pun intended) trying to figure this out. Your knowledge and assistance is appreciated. ☺️
 

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Dehn0045

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MT1 is smaller than MT2. So if you have an MT2 headstock (female) then you can use MT1 tooling (male) using a sleeve that has an MT2 male end and MT1 female. If your headstock is MT1 then to my knowledge there is no easy way to use MT2 tooling. Its easy to make the taper on the headstock smaller, but difficult to make it bigger, if that makes sense...
 

magpens

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You want to fit the MT2 mandrel to a lathe with an MT1 headstock . . . right ?

I don't think there is any way to do that by just buying an adapter. . ( the other way around, YES, but not the way you want to go ).

EDIT: . I think that Sam (just above) and I are saying the same thing here.
 

rherrell

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In order to use a 2mt tool in a 1mt machine you'll need a 1mt-2mt EXTENSION. If you were putting a 1mt tool into a 2mt machine you could use an ADAPTER. Since a 2mt is LARGER than a 1mt an adapter won't fit in the 1mt socket. Here's a link to what I'm talking about...

 

MiteyF

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They do make male MT1 to female MT2 adapters like you would need, the problem is they're very long, as you can't fit an MT2 inside of an MT1, you're adding on a few inches of length. Depending on your buffing setup, you may start running out of room on a very small MT1 lathe with an adapter.
 
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Dehn0045

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I stand corrected - looks like there is an easy way. It just probably isn't all that effective due to space considerations and increasing distance from headstock causing error, which is probably why I hadn't seen it before.
 

monophoto

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As any bowl turner will tell you, you can't make the insider larger than the outside, and in this instance, the diameter of an MT2 taper is larger than the diameter of the female MT1 taper in your lathe. Therefore, the consensus of the previous comments is correct - while it is possible to find converters to mate MT1 with MT2 tapers going in either direction, a converter that allows an MT2 mandrel to attach to an MT1 headstock spindle is going to effectively make the spindle about three inches longer, and losing three inches of bedway length could prevent you from mounting the buffer.

But that then begs the question of whether there is another way to skin this cat. You said that the acrylic buffer has an MT2 mandrel. On some mandrels, the morse taper has a female thread to receive the threaded end of the mandrel rod, and therefore can be unscrewed and removed.
1. You could replace the MT2 taper with an MT1 taper. Finding an MT1 taper with a female thread is not a major challenge (you could use the taper from an old PSI MT1 pen mandrel), but finding an MT1 with a female thread that matches your buffer mandrel could be a problem.
2. If you can't find an MT1 taper with a suitable female thread, another option would be to fabricate a fixing that screws onto the lathe spindle to receive the buffer mandrel. I suspect the CarbaTec lathe has a 3/4x16tpi thread, so you could easily pick up a tap at Ace Hardware (should be in stock) to make a threaded block; then, embed a suitable female 'threaded insert' or 'T-nut' in the block to receive the thread on the buffer mandrel.
3. Another option would be to look into the possibility of having a machinist make an MT1 taper to fit your buffer mandrel.
 
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rherrell

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Since you're just going to use it as a polisher I wouldn't be concerned with any added runout, the only thing that would concern me would be the 3" or so that you would lose.
I would see if I could find a 1mt mandrel for your acrylic polisher, that makes the most sense to me. Hit me up if you can't find one, I can probably make you one.
 

Curly

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Normally one would use a drawbar (a threaded rod running through the headstock) to keep the taper engaged unless the tailstock is pushing with a live centre. If you use an adapter, even with the drawbar, the buffing wheel mandrel can fall off. If it is the Beall 3 wheel type then that won't happen but if single ended that needs to be taken into consideration. The threaded mounting type is probably the best suggestion and Rick could make that up for you.
 

Bats

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But that then begs the question of whether there is another way to skin this cat. You said that the acrylic buffer has an MT2 mandrel. On some mandrels, the morse taper has a female thread to receive the threaded end of the mandrel rod, and therefore can be unscrewed and removed.
More cat-skinning (how much skin did that damn cat have?): Also working from the assumption that the shaft of the buffer is threaded into (or otherwise removable from) the MT2 taper, you could pick up a cheap MT1 ER16 collet chuck like the one below, and an appropriately-sized collet to hold the shaft. As Curly described, it'll also need you to whip up a drawbar if the tailstock isn't holding the far end in place - it can be as simple as a length of allthread with a pair of jam nuts, but you can make something prettier with knobs from the hardware store parts bins.

edit: forgot to add the link to the collet chuck. Here ya go:
 
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monophoto

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More cat-skinning (how much skin did that damn cat have?): Also working from the assumption that the shaft of the buffer is threaded into (or otherwise removable from) the MT2 taper, you could pick up a cheap MT1 ER16 collet chuck like the one below, and an appropriately-sized collet to hold the shaft. As Curly described, it'll also need you to whip up a drawbar if the tailstock isn't holding the far end in place - it can be as simple as a length of allthread with a pair of jam nuts, but you can make something prettier with knobs from the hardware store parts bins.
I assumed that the buffing mandrel is held in place with the tailstock, but if not, then a drawbar is required.

A lathe with an MT1 spindle needs a 1/4" drawbar - very easy to make. Mine has a wooden knob that I turned on the lathe in two parts that are glued together with a mortise and tenon joint - and with a nut embedded between the two parts. Why buy something if you can make it yourself.

I also made a cap that covers the exposed end of the allthread from a scrap of HDPE. - just drilled and threaded a hole in the HDPE, then mounted it on a scrap of allthread that I held in my chuck to create a pleasant shape for the cap. I made this after scratching my hand on the raw end of the rod a couple of times. The cap also prevents the end of the rod from mangling my mallet when I use it to tap the end of the rod to release the morse taper.
 
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Ironwood

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I had the exact same problem a few years ago. I have a metal lathe so the fix was easy for me, I just turned the MT2 taper down to MT1. Works perfectly now in my MT1 lathe.
 

studioseven

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My main lathe is a jet but I also have a carba tech that is dedicated to applying CA. I simple just use two different mandrels. Its a small inconvenience to transfer the blanks from one mandrel to the other.

Seven
 
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