Level Platform for Pressure Pot

[BSea]

For those of us who don't have a real shop, our toys don't always have a dedicated area. So they need to be stored when they aren't being used. For me it means that when I cast, I end up putting my pressure pot on a portable table, or my table saw (which is on a mobile base). So when I want to do a cast in a flat mold, I need to level my pressure pot.

After a couple of years of using shims (popsicle sticks), wedges, and other things. I decided that I needed a better way. So I bought some T style knobs with studs from Woodcraft. And used the 4 prong t-nuts to place in 3 corners.

In one corner I just glued on a piece of 3/8" plywood to make sure that the corner was lifted. I then drilled a hole in each corner for the 4 prong t-nuts and hammered them in.

Now I can level the pressure pot and not worry that a shim will slide out when I'm securing the top to the pressure pot (I hate when that happens ). Also, as long as I leave the t-handles in place, I'm close to level the next time I use the platform. I'm going to add wingnuts to use as locknuts.

 

[sbell111]

Interesting. I've never given a moment's thought to doing that. I guess that since my shop's floor is reasonably flat and level, then the top of the workbench is also pretty level, so I've never noticed an issue.

That being said, I'm not sure that it would matter to me since the outside of the blank is going to be turned away it, therefore, doesn't matter to me if a blank from a block mold is not perfectly square and level.

 

[mredburn]

I can see where that could be quite handy. I may have to consider making one myself.

 

[BSea]

I'm not sure that it would matter to me since the outside of the blank is going to be turned away it, therefore, doesn't matter to me if a blank from a block mold is not perfectly square and level.

It only really matters if you are doing blanks that need to be a certain size. My garage floor slopes noticeably, so on a block mold, it can vary by 3/16" from one side to another. If it were individual blanks, it's not much of an issue as long as I have the mold pointed in the right direction. But when a customer wants blanks that are 7/8", I don't think they'll want something that's 1" on one end, and 3/4" on the other. Granted, it would probably work, but leveling the Pressure pot is the best option when blanks are sold. At least that's my viewpoint.

I probably would have done this sooner, but I do mostly vertical pours where being close to level is close enough.

 

[SDB777]

Is there enough adjustment for placing that on the wifes' car?(kidding)


Reminds me, I actually have a pressure pot....someday I should start using it
Nice work Bob!!!!





Scott (cockeyed blanks suck) B

 

[BSea]

Is there enough adjustment for placing that on the wifes' car?(kidding)


Reminds me, I actually have a pressure pot....someday I should start using it
Nice work Bob!!!!





Scott (cockeyed blanks suck) B

I guess I should have said it works without a pressure pot too.

I have needed it for on tube castings with PR.

And as far as putting it on the wife's car. Why would I want to cast outside?

And if I want her to know this, I'll tell her myself. :biggrin:

 

[79spitfire]

This is really a clever idea.

(Well, not the part about the car...)

 

[SDB777]

Okay...........maybe the hood was a bad idea. Didn't realize it was outside(hehehe)

Do you use those magnetic levels on the side of the pressure pot too?
Internal shelving system to hold more then one tray of blanks at a time?



Scott (how'd the mini-meeting go) B

 

[Marko50]

My pressure pot has a rounded bottom inside. I cut a round piece of 1/8 inch ply to fit in the bottom of the pot to flatten it out. I just level that out each time I pour. Works for me....just my .02¢

 

[BSea]

My pressure pot has a rounded bottom inside. I cut a round piece of 1/8 inch ply to fit in the bottom of the pot to flatten it out. I just level that out each time I pour. Works for me....just my .02¢

Mine too, but the ply I use fits tight, so if the pot itself isn't level, neither is the ply bottom.

 

[JD Combs Sr]

What you have there should/will work fine. The only observation I would make is that if I had been doing it I would have installed the t-nuts from the underside. It may never be an issue but the downward pressure especially with a full and heavy pressure pot could cause the t-nuts to back out of the wood over time. Most of the time when something like that happens it is when we are not around to catch it. If I had assembled it the way you have it and decided to change it I think I would knock the fixed block off and glue it to the other side or not even bother knocking it off, just glue on another on the opposite side, turn the platform over and reinstall the levelers into the t-nuts from the other side. Just my 2cents.

Edit:
Looking at it again it looks as if the t-nut in the upper left corner would be the first one to come loose.

 

[BSea]

What you have there should/will work fine. The only observation I would make is that if I had been doing it I would have installed the t-nuts from the underside. It may never be an issue but the downward pressure especially with a full and heavy pressure pot could cause the t-nuts to back out of the wood over time. Most of the time when something like that happens it is when we are not around to catch it. If I had assembled it the way you have it and decided to change it I think I would knock the fixed block off and glue it to the other side or not even bother knocking it off, just glue on another on the opposite side, turn the platform over and reinstall the levelers into the t-nuts from the other side. Just my 2cents.

Edit:
Looking at it again it looks as if the t-nut in the upper left corner would be the first one to come loose.

I was thinking the same thing the other day. I don't know why I put them on top. And glueing another piece on the opposite side is a good tip. Thanks.