Difficulties turning Pine

[lwalper]

I rescued a piece of pine (about 14x14") from and old building that was being demolished and thought, "that would make a nice bowl." As I was turning every time I cut across the cross grain pieces of wood would just pull out. I tried various tools (all sharp as razors) at various angles of attack -- carbide, HSS -- nothing seemed to matter -- it still left a rough ragged surface. Is there any way to cut pine that will leave a smooth surface or am I doomed to sandpaper?

 

[Wildman]

Are you cutting end or side grain? What is your lathe speed and are you forcing the cut?

 

[lwalper]

Cutting side grain -- which goes OK, but when the piece turns around to the end grain that's where the problem is -- on both ends of the end grain. The thicker, less dense spring portion just seems to get jerked out of the growth ring leaving a bunch of holes about 1/16" deep. The side grain portion of the cut is smooth - no sanding needed. Gentle, light cuts at about 3000 feet/min. I tried varying the speed which didn't seem to make much difference. The wood appears to be in good condition, but I was wondering about dry rot? It's been holding up a building for the past 80 years.

 

[maxwell_smart007]

Have you considered sending it out for stabilization?

 

[lwalper]

Like Cactus Juice?

 

[lorbay]

I turn a ton of SPF and it is hard not to get pick out with this wood. I use a termite with good results in bottoms of bowls and shear cutting on the outside. I saw Glen Lucas in Utah one year and in his demo he said at home on final cuts he would sharpen the tool on every pass, I since have adopted this method and it works really well for me.
Lin

 

[Wildman]

Two green Long Leaf Pine end grain hollow forms working on. While no problem turning outside with my bowl gouge with them. Had no problems inside hollowing with 3/16" HSS cutters until reached the bottom. Your are looking at end grain, pith & juvenile wood at bottom of bigger vase.

Since hit the point of dimension returns will wait till wood dries out and hopefully harden a little before doing anymore with it. I may end up removing pith & juvenile wood & installing a plug don't know yet.

If could see a picture of your problem might be able to help.

 

[lwalper]

Beautiful work! I'll try to get images of mine and post here.

 

[Wildman]

Every turner will run into a piece of wood that defies cutting cleanly no matter tool steel used. Few years back had a dry Poplar bowl like that. I have never had trouble before with Poplar which is not a very hard wood. Was running to the grinder after almost every pass to sharpen my bowl gouge attacking torn end grain.

What finally worked for me was setting lathe speed to around 1,500 or 1600 RPM's and slowing down my cut. Took several light pass to get a clean surface before could finally sand & finish.

Been turning a long time but just getting into hollow forms. This my first time turning Long Leaf Pine been ignoring it for years. So far having fun!

 

[farmer]

cutter

I rescued a piece of pine (about 14x14") from and old building that was being demolished and thought, "that would make a nice bowl." As I was turning every time I cut across the cross grain pieces of wood would just pull out. I tried various tools (all sharp as razors) at various angles of attack -- carbide, HSS -- nothing seemed to matter -- it still left a rough ragged surface. Is there any way to cut pine that will leave a smooth surface or am I doomed to sandpaper?

What would be wrong with using a live cutter.

Farmer

 

[lwalper]

Every turner will run into a piece of wood that defies cutting cleanly no matter tool steel used. Few years back had a dry Poplar bowl like that. I have never had trouble before with Poplar which is not a very hard wood. Was running to the grinder after almost every pass to sharpen my bowl gouge attacking torn end grain.

What finally worked for me was setting lathe speed to around 1,500 or 1600 RPM's and slowing down my cut. Took several light pass to get a clean surface before could finally sand & finish.

Been turning a long time but just getting into hollow forms. This my first time turning Long Leaf Pine been ignoring it for years. So far having fun!

Sorry, no pics at present. It's a good sized bowl (12") turning at up to 1000 RPM (3000 SFPM) -- pretty fast -- with very light cuts.

 

[SDB777]

Doesn't sound like a 'dry or green' problem, being the wood was recovered from an old barn/building....

Folks turned this kind of wood before stabilizing was so highly promoted that even Alumilite needs stabilizing now in order to turn it.....well, at least in some crowds.....

There is definitely a learning curve to turning Pine's of any kind..... I thought I knew turning until I chunked my first chunk of Gray-Stained Lollobby Pine. That stuff kicked my backside!!!
I finally got to the point where I would only get very minimal 'picks'/'tears'. Then it was pretty much time for sanding anyway.... Light cuts, scary sharp tooling(not carbide).


Post up some photo's.....pretty please?





Scott (where is the global warming today) B

 

[lwalper]

Doesn't sound like a 'dry or green' problem, being the wood was recovered from an old barn/building....

Folks turned this kind of wood before stabilizing was so highly promoted that even Alumilite needs stabilizing now in order to turn it.....well, at least in some crowds.....

There is definitely a learning curve to turning Pine's of any kind..... I thought I knew turning until I chunked my first chunk of Gray-Stained Lollobby Pine. That stuff kicked my backside!!!
I finally got to the point where I would only get very minimal 'picks'/'tears'. Then it was pretty much time for sanding anyway.... Light cuts, scary sharp tooling(not carbide).


Post up some photo's.....pretty please?

Thanks. My grandson took the bowl -- no pics at present.