I wanted to try a little inlaying using mica powder. I'm engraving with my Neje 3500 master. Normally the wood is engraved at a 30 power. I engraved this wood at 45 power and wasn't deep enough. So I burned it at 45 power twice. That gave me a pretty good depth to work with. So I filled in with mica powder and then took thin CA to harden it. That worked good also but the CA seemed to soak into the wood and am unable to sand it out without getting into the pattern. I was wondering if there might be a different bond that I can use that won't soak into the wood and easily sanded off? Or maybe I can coat the wood with something before I do the mica powder that will keep the CA from soaking in. Looking for some advice to anyone that have used this before. Thanks! Below is my first test.
Anyone use Mica Powder here?
- Thread starter bsshog40
- Start date
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what about a water clear epoxy like "epoxy 330" that should stop it from soaking into the wood.
you can pre soak the wood area your filling with thin Ca to seal it. You might be able to use thick CA and it wont absorb into the wood.
It looks like you've answered a question I didn't know how to ask. I'm looking for something to precisely cut/burn a design into a turned pen blank to allow me to fill with colored epoxy before sanding. Would you recommend the Neje 3500 for this application?
Yea, I may practice with some med and thick. Thanks.
Thats kind of what I plan on experimenting with. What I am thinking right now is that with a pen being soo small, the engraving would have to be just a cut-out design. To engrave deep enough for filling, I think it would take out any intricate details in a design. I'm looking at getting a 7w laser for it cause it does engrave deeper than the supplied laser. I haven't tried any epoxy yet. The mica powder is a little expensive and I know mixing it in epoxy will be more waste than just filling the design and coating it. I haven't tried anything else but what I have shown above right now.
MRDucks2
Member
FYI while on the general subject, I have found that you can static burn (no rotation of part) about 20% of a curved surface area without any noticeable distortion. Just in case that helps anyone.
Yea, I've already engraved on a curved surface with no issues. A very sharp focus with the laser really helps.
howsitwork
Member
try sanding sealer to seal the wood timbers first. Works for wood dye so should work ok for this.
Seal the whole blank then you don't have any chance of colour issues with stains or finish afterwards.
If you just want it white why not use talcum powder and resin?
Seal the whole blank then you don't have any chance of colour issues with stains or finish afterwards.
If you just want it white why not use talcum powder and resin?
Sanding sealer sounds like a good try. The white is just one of the colors that I have. I don't intend to stay with that color.
howsitwork
Member
Cheaper to practice with though ! I use cellulose based sanding sealer to avoid any issues with finishes and it drys quicker
I hear ya, but I like to test with the same product I'm going to use. One powder may not react as another. Looks like I have a few alternatives to try though.
MRDucks2
Member
I wonder if it would bleed if the blank were stabilized? Not an answer to all woods, but a thought.
I wouldn't think so, if stabalized with acrylic as that is a type of thermoplastic also. I wouldn't think plastic (ca) could bleed into another plastic.