Anyone have a friction polish recipe they like better than commercial options?

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BHuij

BHuij

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As I have been primarily a pen turner, I haven't touched friction polish in many years. Basically since I learned how to do a good CA finish. I don't currently own any.

Now that I'm branching out to some other spindle projects that aren't handled as heavily as a pen (chess pieces, spinning tops, etc.), I'm experimenting with some other finishes. CA glue isn't really practical for anything that has fine details or complex shapes. And there's something to be said for the warmer, more tactile "wood" feeling you can get from non-CA type finishes.

My chess set in progress has gone well with hand-applied shellac done off the lathe, then buffed out with some wax after a few days of hardening.

I want to try some friction polishes in the near future. I think I can get Shellawax and Mylands high-build locally. But I'm a DIY enthusiast and already have plenty of oils, solvents, and shellac on hand. So if anyone has a DIY recipe that they particularly like, especially if they like it more than Mylands or Shellawax, I'd love to hear about it. Bonus points if you have photos to share.
 
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I used this at times when using a friction polish - from Capt'n Eddie.
The Recipe (O.B. Shine Juice)
  • 1 Part Shellac (Clear or White, usually 3lb cut)
  • 1 Part Boiled Linseed Oil (BLO)
  • 1 Part Denatured Alcohol (Methylated Spirits)
    YouTube
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Why a friction polish? If you're looking for a great shine, and it does work, and durability why not try WOP (Wipe On Poly). I've been using it for years and it works great. 3 Coats put on at a high speed, let it sit for 24 hours between coats, and then apply another coat, 3 in total. It needs no buffing (99% of the time) and holds up well (almost 600 knife handles later with no complaints as an example). I've used Aussie Oil and it worked great but I ended up chucking it cause it wasn't consistent, WOP is. Give it a shot. As for CA, you can have it. Never tried it (allergies) but I've received pens from others who have and all I feel is a bumpy mess. Maybe sanding it might help but that's another step I don't want to do. That's my take. Marks does sound interesting though. Good luck in your quest.
 
You can also try the following:

1/3 oil based polyurethane (ensure it is oil based and not water)
1/3 mineral spirits, again ensure it is the real stuff, not the new "green" crap on the shelves today.
1/3 tung oil.
 
For a 'friction polish' to be used on smaller items:
1 part Tung Oil (or BLO or walnut oil)
1 part brushing lacquer
1 part lacquer thinner

(Shake before using; wipe on while spinning the item on the lathe while applying pressure to generate heat. Reapply as necessary to build a finish. Final curing takes a few hours. Because this formula uses lacquer rather than shellac, it is harder and is resistant to alcohol.)

For a 'varnish' to be used on larger items (similar to WaterLox):
1 part Tung Oil
1 part alkyd varnish (I use McCloskey's Man-o-War)
1 part turpentine (or mineral spirits)

(wipe on generously, let sit for 30-45 minutes, wipe off, after 4-24 hours, buff with 4/0 steel wool or gray Scotchbrite and repeat; 3-6 applications depending on the degree of gloss desired. Can be waxed/buffed after it cures if higher gloss is desired. For a harder finish, substitute a solvent-based polyurethane instead of the alkyd varnish: curing time between applications will be longer.)

For a 'danish oil' (penetrates into the surface; does not form a 'film finish")
1 part Tung Oil
1 part limonene (or turpentine or mineral spirits - but limonene smells better)

(shake before using; apply generously, and then wipe off excess after 30-45 minutes, repeat if desired)

For a 'cutting board' or treenware finish (similar to Howard's FeedNWax:
Slice beeswax into thin shavings and in limonene, shaking occasionally (turpentine or mineral oil NOT recommended)
After the wax has fully dissolved, add an equal volume of limonene and Tung Oil.

(shake well before using; apply generously, and then wipe off excess after 30-45 minutes and buff. Repeated washing will remove the finish, so periodic reapplication is required)

I generally prefer to use Hope's Pure Tung Oil in making these finishes. It is possible to substitute BLO (yielding a stronger amber color) or walnut oil (for less amber color than Tung Oil.) Be aware that BLO that is made by adding driers to pure linseee oil may not be 'food safe'. There are a few commercially-made BLOs that are produced using the traditional heat method, or it is possible to make your own, that don't carry this risk.
 
Great answers, thanks all.

I have tried that "equal parts lacquer, BLO, and lacquer thinner" friction polish and found it to be really disappointing. I couldn't really build a high gloss at all. It made a reasonably good satin finish, but one I think I could achieve more easily with just oil.

My understanding of the friction polishes that I've used in the past is that they are shellac-based. I'll have to give O.B. Shine Juice a try.

While I know there's a time and a place for extremely long, multi-day-cures-between-many-coats type finishing processes (my guitar comes to mind), a big part of the appeal of friction polish (and CA finish) is that they can be done right there, cure times measured in seconds or minutes instead of hours/days/weeks. @wolf creek knives it sounds like maybe you have not yet encountered a well-done CA finish. When done correctly, it's glass-smooth. And yes, that involves sanding, but I'll take a little sanding any day compared to spending 6 days on my finish :D
 
Does anyone know of or have a friction polish that cures to a gloss finish?
Mine is from Captain Eddie Castelin- equal parts BLO, DNA, clear shellac.
 
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