Any interest in pen maker specific drill bit holder?

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Carl Fisher

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Playing around with a layout for a drill bit holder designed specifically for pen maker sized bits.

I went through all of the tube/drill size spreadsheets and I think I pulled all of the bit sizes for all of the kits with maybe one or two exceptions for the obscenely large real cigar holder and something else which I forget.

What other information would you like to see in the quick reference section besides cross reference of approximately compatible bits?

I'll be cutting these on my CNC from wood. Each hole is .01 for SAE and .1 for metric oversized to allow easy insert/removal. I'll have to play with that a bit once I cut some prototypes to make sure that's enough clearance.

I haven't drawn up a 3D version yet, but I figure the upper deck to be either 1/2" or 3/4" material with through holes for the bits and some 1/2" standoffs underneath with a lower platform for the stop.

Depending on the wood I end up using and figuring out the best way to color in the engravings, I'm targeting around a $20-25 price point. So I guess the question is would there be interest and what changes would you like to see?
 

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Carl Fisher

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A cover might be interesting actually but would take more material to make than the actual unit itself. Plus drill bit lengths are not standard, so it would have to be based off of your longest bit.

I'd have to look into that on a one-off basis.
 

Carl Fisher

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I'm a buyer!

Great idea.

If like to fashion some kind of cover to put over the top for mine but that would be on me.
The inner rectangle of the box was meant to be an inset pocket, but it could just as easily be flipped so it stands proud and the outer ring would be recessed to index a lid in place. I actually do like that idea the more I think about it.
 

Carl Fisher

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I can do that, but how big would be considered too big for something like this? Right now we're at 8" x 4.5" and probably in the neighborhood of 3" tall without a lid of any type.

I may end up having to go slightly larger if the engraving doesn't show up well enough on the small text in wood. I have to do some test pieces to see how small is still legible. I'm thinking hard maple may take the text the best in terms of clean edges with a v-bit. Or as an alternative to color filling the engravings, I may put a layer of something over the face and engrave into that but that would add to the cost.
 

MarkD

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Carl, I believe the CABALLERO (JR Gents I's) that Smitty sells use 10mm and 12MM drill bits although I think that 15/32 and a 25/64 can be used.

I may be interested in one of these.



 

Carl Fisher

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It looks like he calls for the SAE sizes and then says they can be substituted with the 10 and 12 metric.

I can add space for a 12, but it's like the big 51/64th bit I ran into where it seems to be an exception.
 

scjohnson243

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Love the idea, been fighting different ways to keep drill bits organized, and for a "Mechanical idiot" like myself figuring out which size is which... (if its not printed on the bit)...

Would buy this... Maybe include a little paper or fold out that has the kits/sizes... just for reference, but most poeple can just pull that up themselves... Not sure if it would add more value, but would be "nice" for the extremely lazy or confused new guys.
 

Mack C.

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I can see a use for one of those for myself. My concern is mailing costs to Canada approaching $20 for an SFRB. My suggestion is the outside measurements to be no larger than what fits into the SFRB, 5 3/8" X 8 5/8" X 1 5/8".

I'm not sure why you're at 3" tall though!:confused:
 

Carl Fisher

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It would be flat packed to fit a SFRB.

If I can get sketchup to behave, I'll show you why the 3". My idea is that what you see here is drilled completely through at the bit diameter plus a little wiggle room. This piece would be put on standoffs about 1 1/2" above a solid lower board. When you insert the bit it would hold the bit about half way up so the hole is the right diameter.

Otherwise not all bits have the same size shank as their drill size. i.e. a larger bit may step down to fit a smaller chuck. Those wobble around if only grabbed from the bottom. This would hold the bits somewhere around the middle depending on the bit length.
 

Carl Fisher

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As for leaving room, I could omit the Letter bits for those of us who don't use them. I've been making pens for quite a few years now and never needed a letter bit unless I was doing kitless work. That would leave you an entire row of extra space for custom holes.

This would all be CNC cut within .001 of the target size of each hole.
 

walshjp17

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Carl,

Put me down for one. You might want to show your drawings at the meeting tomorrow night. I imagine there'll be a few takers.

You might consider a separate holder for turners who use forstner bits for pepper mills or rough hollowing and include holes for drill chucks and other things (pencils and Sharpies?). We can chat tomorrow evening.

jpw
 

stonepecker

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What about omiting the letter holes and make a seperat holder for Letter bits?

I like the idea and the design is great.
Keeping it to the SFR box size and allowing the buyer to get the 'rods' and cut to their own prefered height?

Just an idea.
 
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Signguy

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I'm totally in!

I'd vote for having every possible size on it, even the less used ones. If any kit has ever used it I would include it.

I'd rather have it a little larger and not have the classic "what do I do with this one bit size that does not fit" issue,

Thanks!
 

Carl Fisher

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I'm totally in!

I'd vote for having every possible size on it, even the less used ones. If any kit has ever used it I would include it.

I'd rather have it a little larger and not have the classic "what do I do with this one bit size that does not fit" issue,

Thanks!
Best I can tell there are only 2 bits that I've excluded that are only good for 2 kits that I could find information on. One of which isn't even a pen kit really and the other is for an alternative metric (12mm) bit for which an SAE bit is actually the first choice in the instructions. The letter P bit that is in there isn't really necessary as none of the kits use them. That frees up one spot anyway.

I do agree that I need to keep this to what can fit in a small flat rate box. Anything larger and shipping becomes a problem. That means the largest I can go is 8 5/8" x 5 3/8" so there is some wiggle room over what is configured now. But at what point does it become too big for the bench so to speak I guess is my concern. Take a SFRB and put in a free spot on your bench and see if that's acceptable to give up that space.

What I might look at doing is having 2 options. One as shown with the letter bits in place and one that omits the letter bits but offers holes to fit MT2 accessories such as your mandrel and centers. The problem I have to watch out for with that is stability of loading up heavy live centers and such to the outside of the platform.

Oh and if any of the kitless guys are interested, I'm working out a kitless setup in my head. There will be a spot for a 1" die, tap, and drill bit for each of body, section, clip, and a few extra holes for feed taps.
 
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Dan Masshardt

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For other future holders - like for kitless - what about a holder that could fit in a drawer with the pieces flat?

You could consider leaving the p but hole as I think this may be a good one for kitless work??
 

southernclay

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Carl I love the idea. I did a home brew version of this with 2 1x4"s recently and would have preferred to have paid your price : )

-A kitless version with pieces laying flat would be a great idea.

-I use a U bit on one of Smittys pens but I think having a little extra room will let someone add a few of their own.

-a flat rate bubble envelope may be a decent option, same price as SFRB but larger. May not be durable enough?

-your idea to raise it to handle reduced shank drills is an awesome solution that was the first problem I thought of.

Don't know that I'm a buyer since I have mine done now but it's a great idea at a great price. I would be interested in one for taps/dies especially having the reference table on there. That could be a nice resource if I do make the plunge.
 

Carl Fisher

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Ok, so this is as big as I can go and still fit in a flat rate box. I went 8.5 x 5.25 which gives me 1/4" spacing for craft paper wrapping or whatever in the box.

I gave some space to add your own one-off holes as needed. I also added a second version that removes the letter bits and adds holes to hold MT2 accessories such as mandrels, centers, knock out bar, etc...
 

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Dan Masshardt

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Ok, so this is as big as I can go and still fit in a flat rate box. I went 8.5 x 5.25 which gives me 1/4" spacing for craft paper wrapping or whatever in the box. I gave some space to add your own one-off holes as needed. I also added a second version that removes the letter bits and adds holes to hold MT2 accessories such as mandrels, centers, knock out bar, etc...

I like the first one I use 2 or 3 of the letter bits

IMO, this can't start to become a catch all for things like centers there will always be more things that it should have.

I DO think that the idea of having future different ones - especially that could fit in a drawer woukd be great Kit less stuff, collets, centers,
 

Mack C.

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This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking. Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas. I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.
It could be mailed knocked down. The new owner could put it together!
 

Carl Fisher

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This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking. Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas. I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.
It could be mailed knocked down. The new owner could put it together!
We all have access to CA or epoxy. I can mail it with some 1/4" aluminum rod cut to length and it can be assembled in your shop. I did consider screws and threaded stand offs, but that would add to the cost.
 
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Mack C.

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This is a down and dirty of what I was thinking. Not set in stone and I'm open to ideas. I'm using just a flat 3/4" board right now and I find that the bits are not stable enough for my liking which is the reason for having the elevated platform.
It could be mailed knocked down. The new owner could put it together!
We all have access to CA or epoxy. I can mail it with some 1/4" aluminum rod cut to length and it can be assembled in your shop. I did consider screws and threaded stand offs, but that would add to the cost.
1/2" wooden dowel would work for me. My point of view, just mail me the drilled out board, I'll make the elevated platform. You've done the most and the best part of the work!
 
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