Another CA question

[Kami]

Hi Guys,

I have been sort of successful with several CA finishes however I have noticed that there are always patches on my CA finish it is not always glass like.

Theses sometimes go after some heavy micromesh sessions. however I must spend around 3 hours sanding to achieve a CA finish.

Does it matter if the piece is not straight when you apply the finish? I tend to use a piece of dowel and use a rubber band to trap the tube in place. Its usually almost perfectly straight.

I have followed Don's instructions to the letter (thanks Don) and I still cannot see the CA finish for the ...wood

Help....

Thanks,

kami

 

[greenmtnguy]

Your wood needs to be perfectly straight for a good finish. You are probably sanding the CA off of the high points leaving dull areas. If your mandrel is bent and you feel a wobble while turning, you won't be able to sand or finish successfully with high and low spots. Micromesh will give a mirror finish with the right technique. Cure the wobble and admire your shine.

 

[Texatdurango]

Sorry, but if you are spending 3 hours sanding, you are not following anyones process to the letter!

Sanding a pen shouldn't take more than a few minutes, even when using micromesh.

Have you watched any of the CA videos to get an idea of how others are doing it?

Just guessing but it sounds like you are not putting enough CA on to begin with then you start sanding the bajeebers out of the blank trying to get it to shine when you are probably back down to wood in the first minute or so.

Whether you like his CA/BLO technique or not, Russ Fairfield has taken the time to show folks how to apply a CA finish... in a matter of minutes! I would suggest visiting the library and watching it.

 

[Kami]

Hi Guys,

Thanks for the reply's, I will try and straighten everything out. I don't use a mandrel to applie a ca finish because I am worried that the glue will stick the bushings and the blank together.

I have Russ's video downloading as we speak

Thanks again,

kami

 

[Ligget]

Kami its very hard to explain about applying a CA finish without actually showing you.

I use my beween centres set up to apply CA, so no bushings to get stuck.

I apply approx 5 - 6 coats of medium CA, cutting back each coat when dry with 2400 or 3200 MM (only remove rings not the CA).

Is the CA you are using old?

 

[Hello]

Hi Kami,
I disagree about the blanks being straight.
I don't find it necessary for the wood you've turned to be perfectly straight, I commonly have quite an outward bow in my pens, and I have no issues with the finish at all. Everyone has their "thing" that works well. Most use techniques (or slight variations) that have been outlined by those we consider to be "the pros". I have learned one thing about the CA finish applied on a tube that isn't perfect straight.....Texatdurango mentioned sanding through too far at the nigh points of your tube, and I think that's right. The way I avoid this is by wet sanding with a piece of 500 grit paper(waterproof isn't necessary) that's just big enough to cover the end of my finger. I can be much more precise with what I"m sanding that way. I also agree that sanding shouldn't take 3hrs....the longest I ever take on an entire pen is 1.5hrs.....unless I'm CA wicking a corn cob - stupid corn cobs!

 

[Kami]

Hello,

Yes the CA must be a good few months old by now (like 4-5). Where can I get some dead centers? Are they expencive?

Thanks for the tip hello, I will give it a going with a small pice of 400 (dont have any 500).

Thanks again,

Will let you know how it goes.

Kami

 

[TowMater]

www.littlemachineshop.com

Is where I bought mine, as recommended by several folks on the forum here.

Todd

 

[Hello]

Kami,
and addendum to my last post....
You're welcome for the hint....I simply add a clarifying bit - you're literally keeping the paper ON the end of your finger, rather than holding the ends of it like you might with a strip of paper.....and keep it a light touch, watch for and use the slurry that is created. just let me know if you discover issues with getting your vertical sanding lines out....i've tried a few things for that (all of this specifically regarding a CA finish on a tube that isn't turned perfectly straight).
Good luck!

 

[loglugger]

Hello, the way that I read Kamis first post as not strieght as being out of round on the dowel that he is useing to finish his pens on. Don't know, just the way that I took it to be?
Bob

 

[Hello]

ok...i'm lost.
no more input from me on this

 

[CaptG]

Hello, don't stop the input. We all work togather to solve problems and with continuing input from all we all learn.
Kami, some of my early ca finish pens had dull spots here and there. I guessed that they were spots the ca did not stick well to as the problem was a lot more noticable on oily woods. With out seeing yours I can only guess that they might be the same problems I had. After sanding to 800 grit, blow off all sanding dust, then wipe down with acetone. As soon as blank dries (20/30 seconds) I apply a couple coats THIN ca. This seems to help seal the wood and gives a good base for a few more coats of med. ca. As for glue sticking to bushings, wax 'em with car wax. works well. Don't give up and you will get good at it.

 

[Kami]

Thanks for the support guys I will keep at it

Just to clarify the pen is round ut not held stright.

Thanks,

Kami

 

[MrPukaShell]

Kami,

Try this video clip on "YouTube"

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pBTbCOL4npg

No downloading and it is only 7 minutes and 10 seconds

If you like it do a search for johnrob281, he has 9 videos on pen making and goes through all the steps on making a slimline pen.

Safe turning..........