Yorkshire Grit vs Dr Kirks Micro Magic

[bugradx2]

OK, I am seeking some advice from people who have used both

Do you find a difference between the two when you use them? I know both need a sanding sealer to start but am unsure if one is better than the other.

I use a CA (GluBoost) on my pens and sand them all to 600 before the CA goes on. Would I still need to do a sanding sealer or does the CA serve as the sealer and then I can just go to town?

My current process is to wet sand with micro mesh up to 12,000. Does either product put a similar "grit" level of finish sanding/buffing?

I'd like to use them without CA on larger turnings like bowls or pepper mills too.

Thanks for your opinions

 

[mg_dreyer]

Well the best I can do is give you my opinions. Under full disclosure I do work a lot with GluBoost and East Wood Tools as a demonstrator and have done product testing for GluBoost. So on the second question first - I do not use any product before or after GluBoost finish. I feel the finish holds up on its own. I have been using GluBoost since (if I remember that far back) mid 2018.

As for Yorkshire grit and Dr Kirk's I have used both. My preference is Yorkshire. Dr Kirk's was very good but I simply like to choose one and try to perfect my finish with the least amount of variables. I do use a quick sanding sealer on bigger projects if I plan to apply a lacquer finish. Remember Yorkshire grit is a sanding paste (will stand up after but it is a sanding paste). I have numerous bowls where I did not apply any finish after Yorkshire and they still look great but they are decorative not utilitarian.

Not sure if I helped or not. Feel free to pm me or leave them here specific questions on GluBoost or Yorkshire and I will help to the best of my ability.

If interested in my GluBoost finish technique it is on YouTube (with about 20 other pen making videos). Just search my name over there.

Promise to help if I did not answer your questions completely. Let me know.

 

[bugradx2]

Well the best I can do is give you my opinions. Under full disclosure I do work a lot with GluBoost and East Wood Tools as a demonstrator and have done product testing for GluBoost. So on the second question first - I do not use any product before or after GluBoost finish. I feel the finish holds up on its own. I have been using GluBoost since (if I remember that far back) mid 2018.

As for Yorkshire grit and Dr Kirk's I have used both. My preference is Yorkshire. Dr Kirk's was very good but I simply like to choose one and try to perfect my finish with the least amount of variables. I do use a quick sanding sealer on bigger projects if I plan to apply a lacquer finish. Remember Yorkshire grit is a sanding paste (will stand up after but it is a sanding paste). I have numerous bowls where I did not apply any finish after Yorkshire and they still look great but they are decorative not utilitarian.

Not sure if I helped or not. Feel free to pm me or leave them here specific questions on GluBoost or Yorkshire and I will help to the best of my ability.

If interested in my GluBoost finish technique it is on YouTube (with about 20 other pen making videos). Just search my name over there.

Promise to help if I did not answer your questions completely. Let me know.

Mark - I appreciate you replying and I was asking for opinions and I would certainly consider yours to be a very educated one. Thanks for your reply. I think it's great that you mentioned your relationships too, thanks.

Before anything else, you're not highlighting that your series is called 10 Minutes to Better Turning and the videos are very informative.

As I read your reply I realize that as I was writing my questions to everyone last night I didn't phrase it correctly. I didn't mean to ask if anyone uses GluBoost after a sanding sealer. I meant to ask if a sanding sealer is needed between GluBoost and Yorkshire Grit or Dr Kirks. From your response above I would say that it's not needed and the GluBoost is serving as the sanding sealer.

One additional question - if I was to turn, let's say, a pizza cutter handle or wine stopper. Is your technique to put GluBoost or some form of a lacquer finish on those?

 

[TonyL]

Returned Dr Kirks. I didn't think it provided the results it promised. However, it may be me. I don't have any experience with the other. I do know many that love Dr. Kirks.

 

[bugradx2]

Returned Dr Kirks. I didn't think it provided the results it promised. However, it may be me. I don't have any experience with the other. I do know many that love Dr. Kirks.

The videos they have for Dr Kirks make it look pretty magical. I have another turner who lives nearby, I may have to borrow his and try it or something.

 

[mg_dreyer]

Mark - I appreciate you replying and I was asking for opinions and I would certainly consider yours to be a very educated one. Thanks for your reply. I think it's great that you mentioned your relationships too, thanks.

Before anything else, you're not highlighting that your series is called 10 Minutes to Better Turning and the videos are very informative.

As I read your reply I realize that as I was writing my questions to everyone last night I didn't phrase it correctly. I didn't mean to ask if anyone uses GluBoost after a sanding sealer. I meant to ask if a sanding sealer is needed between GluBoost and Yorkshire Grit or Dr Kirks. From your response above I would say that it's not needed and the GluBoost is serving as the sanding sealer.

One additional question - if I was to turn, let's say, a pizza cutter handle or wine stopper. Is your technique to put GluBoost or some form of a lacquer finish on those?

To answer the question about GluBoost on handles or wine stoppers I honestly use lacquer as my finish on those products. CA does cure after some time but I don't use them near things that will be used for food. I know after the cure it is not an issue but I still favor spray lacquer. I like Watco lacquer but I believe there are many other options. I hope this helps and as always - these are just my thoughts. I am sure opinions will vary.

Please let me know if you have any questions on either GluBoost or Yorkshire. As you know I have always been a fan of GluBoost and now that I have tried Yorkshire I use both where appropriate.

 

[jrista]

To answer the question about GluBoost on handles or wine stoppers I honestly use lacquer as my finish on those products. CA does cure after some time but I don't use them near things that will be used for food. I know after the cure it is not an issue but I still favor spray lacquer. I like Watco lacquer but I believe there are many other options. I hope this helps and as always - these are just my thoughts. I am sure opinions will vary.

Please let me know if you have any questions on either GluBoost or Yorkshire. As you know I have always been a fan of GluBoost and now that I have tried Yorkshire I use both where appropriate.

As far as I know, CA glue will stop offgassing within about 12 hours, or less. Cure times for CA are usually no longer than 90 minutes, although they may still offgass a bit after that. But, within a day at most, you should simply have a solid resin, and no concern about lack of safety for food...especially for something that will never actually touch the food like a bottle stopper.

 

[bugradx2]

To answer the question about GluBoost on handles or wine stoppers I honestly use lacquer as my finish on those products. CA does cure after some time but I don't use them near things that will be used for food. I know after the cure it is not an issue but I still favor spray lacquer. I like Watco lacquer but I believe there are many other options. I hope this helps and as always - these are just my thoughts. I am sure opinions will vary.

Please let me know if you have any questions on either GluBoost or Yorkshire. As you know I have always been a fan of GluBoost and now that I have tried Yorkshire I use both where appropriate.

Thanks Mark, that helps a ton. I am still trying to figure out what finishes to use on what types of projects. I have just two or three that I use for projects that aren't turned because they're pretty bulletproof but not sure how well they would work in the turning environment.

Kent

 

[TonyL]

The videos they have for Dr Kirks make it look pretty magical. I have another turner who lives nearby, I may have to borrow his and try it or something.

Give it a shot. I tried it at all different RPMs (and friction/heat), and application quantities. I also called CSUSA for help; who are always very nice. I think Chad of Turners Warehouse did a video review and it was positive. It may just be me or my expectations were too high. I would have loved it to work out for me.