Fast1197r
Member
wtb thin parting tool
wtb thin parting tool
- Thread starter Fast1197r
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ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
Here is one possibility:
www.exoticblanks.com
Henry Taylor M2 HSS Pen Turning Tool - Parting Tool
The Henry Taylor M2 HSS Pen Turning Tool - Parting tool.M2 High-speed steel3/32" Narrow-kerf, creates clean cuts on tenons when fitting center bands10" HandleSolid brass ferruleFeatured in the popular book and video, Turning Pens and Pencils by Rex Burningham and Kip Christensen
danhoke
Member
Take a look at Benjamin's Best HSS thin parting tool at PSI for $19.95. I'm pleased with the one I purchased.
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
I use a hacksaw blade with a point ground on the end. Works nicely.
And pretty cheap too!
And pretty cheap too!
ed4copies
Local Chapter Manager
OR get Benjamin's best here for $14.95, with flat rate shipping!!
www.exoticblanks.com
However, it IS an eighth inch wide--standard width rather than thin, which is why I did not mention it in the first post.
They do offer a tenoning tool, which is 1/8" wide, you can find it here:
www.exoticblanks.com
I use this one myself, but I thought they stopped making it.
OOOOOpppppppsssss!!
Benjamins Best 3/4 in. x 1/8 in. HSS Parting Tool
Benjamin's Best High Speed Steel 3/4" x 1/8" Parting Tool - 16-1/2"Long. The parting tool is specifically designed for cutting, off or "parting" a spindle workpiece. Also used to cut tenons, establish a diameter or cut small flat areas.
www.exoticblanks.com
However, it IS an eighth inch wide--standard width rather than thin, which is why I did not mention it in the first post.
They do offer a tenoning tool, which is 1/8" wide, you can find it here:
Benjamins Best HSS Lathe Tenoning Tool
Benjamin's Best High Speed Steel Tenon tool. This tool is only 1/16" wide. It gives a clean, sharp and accurate 90 degree angle with a very thin cut. Ideal for small delicate turnings. A must for any pen maker - ideal for cutting tenons on pen center bands. The blade is 1-1/4"wide x 5" long. 9"...
www.exoticblanks.com
I use this one myself, but I thought they stopped making it.
OOOOOpppppppsssss!!
jttheclockman
Member
Bought this one about 2 months ago and like it. The reason I like it so much is because the thin blade, the wide blade, and stiffness to it. For what I am using it for is to cut thin segments off a blank for future segmenting and it wastes little material. I am going to make a jig for my router table setup on the lathe so it can slice precise slices. If you are looking for a thin blade this is not bad at all. They do make a carbide one but more expensive but the blade is replaceable.
https://www.amazon.com/Thin-Kerf-Pa...ZSK3YGXRPMH&psc=1&refRID=CYXPB0T73ZSK3YGXRPMH
https://www.amazon.com/Thin-Kerf-Pa...ZSK3YGXRPMH&psc=1&refRID=CYXPB0T73ZSK3YGXRPMH
bmachin
Member
Mark St. Leger has two: one ground from a stainless table knife and one made from an Outback steak knife.
No kidding!
Bill
No kidding!
Bill
PBorowick
Member
I have the same one as JT and I really like how nicely it cuts for such a thin blade.
MrPukaShell
Member
Made one from a Saws-all Fire N Ice blade works great
monophoto
Member
Several people have mentioned 1/16" parting tools. These are probably the most common commercial 'thin' parting tools. I have the Ben's Best from PSI (advertised as a 'tenoning tool'), but I have modified it to look like the Henry Taylor tool that John mentioned by grinding a second bevel. Frankly, I don't know if that makes any difference in its performance.
The one thing to be aware of with these tools is that because the blade has a uniform thickness, it tends to rub the edges of the cut. And because the blade is fairly broad (1.25" on Ben's Best), there's a lot of material to bind and cause friction. This means that it has a tendency to burn the timber on a deep cut. It is possible to manage this problem in the way the tool is used - cut in a bit, withdraw the blade, and then do a relief cut to one side about half the width of the blade - but that doesn't completely eliminate the concern. A secondary consequence is that depending on the chemical content of the timber (I suspect on the sugar content in the fibers of the wood), that burning effect leaves a tar-like char on the sides of the blade. It's easy to remove using some fine sandpaper or a diamond hone, but I suspect that if you do that repeatedly, the thickness of the blade will become slightly tapered.
It is possible to make thin parting tools from hacksaw or sawsall blades, or small bits of high-speed steel, and the cost is even cheaper than buying one of the 1/16" tools ($15 for Ben's Best, $26 for Henry Taylor). However, my experience is that the problem with shop-made tools of this size is that the width of the blade is less than the fairly broad dimension of the commercial tools, and the result is that they tend to flex a bit leading to chatter and difficulty in controlling the cut. I have successfully used a tool of this sort on a thin spindle, but I find that the broader commercial tool is easier to control if the spindle is more than, say, 1/2" in diameter.
The one thing to be aware of with these tools is that because the blade has a uniform thickness, it tends to rub the edges of the cut. And because the blade is fairly broad (1.25" on Ben's Best), there's a lot of material to bind and cause friction. This means that it has a tendency to burn the timber on a deep cut. It is possible to manage this problem in the way the tool is used - cut in a bit, withdraw the blade, and then do a relief cut to one side about half the width of the blade - but that doesn't completely eliminate the concern. A secondary consequence is that depending on the chemical content of the timber (I suspect on the sugar content in the fibers of the wood), that burning effect leaves a tar-like char on the sides of the blade. It's easy to remove using some fine sandpaper or a diamond hone, but I suspect that if you do that repeatedly, the thickness of the blade will become slightly tapered.
It is possible to make thin parting tools from hacksaw or sawsall blades, or small bits of high-speed steel, and the cost is even cheaper than buying one of the 1/16" tools ($15 for Ben's Best, $26 for Henry Taylor). However, my experience is that the problem with shop-made tools of this size is that the width of the blade is less than the fairly broad dimension of the commercial tools, and the result is that they tend to flex a bit leading to chatter and difficulty in controlling the cut. I have successfully used a tool of this sort on a thin spindle, but I find that the broader commercial tool is easier to control if the spindle is more than, say, 1/2" in diameter.
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I used a Saws-all blade also. I got the idea from a Captain Eddie video.
jttheclockman
Member
As I mentioned there are carbide parting tools out there and come in various price ranges depending what setup you get. But here is one and if you notice most of these carbide cutters address the concerns Louie brought up about rubbing the sides and burning. The cutter head is a slight bit larger than the sides of the holder thus elliminates the rubbing. But 1/8" is the best I have seen. and that is too thick for me. But there are options.
https://www.rockler.com/easy-wood-tools-pt125-mid-size-easy-parting-tool-1-8?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) Shopping - Wood Turning&msclkid=19a1861803ca1ad3b850d82f0b98762c
https://www.harrisonspecialties.com/carbide-simple-parting-and-grooving-tool-for-woodturning-lathe/
https://www.rockler.com/easy-wood-tools-pt125-mid-size-easy-parting-tool-1-8?sid=V9146?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=&utm_campaign=PL&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(ROI) Shopping - Wood Turning&msclkid=19a1861803ca1ad3b850d82f0b98762c
https://www.harrisonspecialties.com/carbide-simple-parting-and-grooving-tool-for-woodturning-lathe/
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jttheclockman
Member
Here is another Robert Sorby 1/16" with a longer shaft. If that is a concern.
https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Fluted-Parting-Overall-Length/dp/B004I2SX1O
https://www.amazon.com/Robert-Fluted-Parting-Overall-Length/dp/B004I2SX1O
howsitwork
Member
just be aware the fluted blades can mark your rest in use.
I have two of the sorby unfiltered ones and they're good.
I also made my own from a used commercial hacksaw blade by grinding the teeth off the blade which removes the set and then grinding it to parting tool profile and attaching a handle. Works as well as the sorby ones and you get 2 from a blade that was going to be thrown away. This was before the thin ones were readily available, which shows my age somewhat !
I have two of the sorby unfiltered ones and they're good.
I also made my own from a used commercial hacksaw blade by grinding the teeth off the blade which removes the set and then grinding it to parting tool profile and attaching a handle. Works as well as the sorby ones and you get 2 from a blade that was going to be thrown away. This was before the thin ones were readily available, which shows my age somewhat !
Fast1197r
Member
thanks for the info
Woodchipper
Member
Far from an expert here but I did stay at a Holiday Inn Express. I have used a hacksaw on a couple of occasions as a parting tool. Have to work to keep it square to the cut, though. Like the replies and the input from Ed.