WriteON
Member
First cane coming up. I'm thinking of using a 1"x36" oak dowel from HomeDepot. Any reason not to use it. I don't know what else they have or to use. Pine is out. Trying to keep it economically for now.
Last edited:
Wood for cane
- Thread starter WriteON
- Start date
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
Charlie_W
Member
Most any hardwood should be fine. Straight grained as possible for strength.
Try the oak or maple first and then branch into other woods after you get your technique established.
Try the oak or maple first and then branch into other woods after you get your technique established.
1" seems small for a starting point. That's probably your finished size for the handle end, giving you no margin for truing and sanding. Also, I wouldn't trust big box dowel diameters to be super accurate. I'd at least get 1-1/4", which I know the HD's here have.
As for oak, the only reason not to use it is personal taste regarding how it looks. Speaking of taste, use dust protection when turning it. Oak is really bitter, tastes awful.
As for oak, the only reason not to use it is personal taste regarding how it looks. Speaking of taste, use dust protection when turning it. Oak is really bitter, tastes awful.
monophoto
Member
I've made several canes. Initially, it was mainly as a turning exercise for me, and was stimulated by watching Richard Findlay do a demonstration at Totally Turning back in March. But a couple of months ago my wife broke her hip and a practical consideration entered the picture. Here's a thread on the subject - https://www.penturners.org/threads/canes.154818/.
By the way, there are two kinds of canes - functional canes for those who need assistance in walking, and stylish canes that are mainly fashion accessories. Findlay produces 'swagger stick' canes mainly using oak stock. I think the main difference is the design of the handle - functional canes tend to have a handle that the user can actually grasp, while 'swagger sticks' tend to have decorative handles.
I've used ash, maple and oak. For the maple and oak versions, I laminated two pieces together to create a blank with a large enough cross section to be able to turn a shaft of the desired diameter. If the material is knot-free and with fairly straight grain, and if this is done with a good glue and the joint is clamped until the glue has fully cured, I don't think the fact that the blank is laminated will reduce the strength, and it might actually make the cane a bit stronger.
I use a lathe with a short (18") bed; however, when allowances are made for chucks and other fixings, the maximum length I can practically turn is more like 11-12 inches. As a result, the best approach for me is to make the cane shaft in three segments and then glue them together using tenons and drilled mortises. And if I want to include a coupler so that the cane can be broken down for storage or travel, it's best to plan on four segments. For strength, I make drill the mortises fairly deep - 1 1/2" - 2", and use tenons that very nearly fill the full depth of the mortise. Also, I make the mortise and tenons fairly large - around half the final diameter of the shaft.
Using commercial dowel stock for the shaft eliminates the lamination issue, and also the concerns about joining short segments to create the shaft. I presume that you are planning to also make the handle from commercial dowel stock, so the only issue will be how the handle joins the shaft. I opted to have a tenon on the end of the shaft that fits into a drilled mortise in the handle, and I've turned both from flat stock. I've also reinforced that joint on functional canes with a second dowel, made from either wood or fiberglass rod.
Would love to see a followup posting on your experience in cane making.
By the way, there are two kinds of canes - functional canes for those who need assistance in walking, and stylish canes that are mainly fashion accessories. Findlay produces 'swagger stick' canes mainly using oak stock. I think the main difference is the design of the handle - functional canes tend to have a handle that the user can actually grasp, while 'swagger sticks' tend to have decorative handles.
I've used ash, maple and oak. For the maple and oak versions, I laminated two pieces together to create a blank with a large enough cross section to be able to turn a shaft of the desired diameter. If the material is knot-free and with fairly straight grain, and if this is done with a good glue and the joint is clamped until the glue has fully cured, I don't think the fact that the blank is laminated will reduce the strength, and it might actually make the cane a bit stronger.
I use a lathe with a short (18") bed; however, when allowances are made for chucks and other fixings, the maximum length I can practically turn is more like 11-12 inches. As a result, the best approach for me is to make the cane shaft in three segments and then glue them together using tenons and drilled mortises. And if I want to include a coupler so that the cane can be broken down for storage or travel, it's best to plan on four segments. For strength, I make drill the mortises fairly deep - 1 1/2" - 2", and use tenons that very nearly fill the full depth of the mortise. Also, I make the mortise and tenons fairly large - around half the final diameter of the shaft.
Using commercial dowel stock for the shaft eliminates the lamination issue, and also the concerns about joining short segments to create the shaft. I presume that you are planning to also make the handle from commercial dowel stock, so the only issue will be how the handle joins the shaft. I opted to have a tenon on the end of the shaft that fits into a drilled mortise in the handle, and I've turned both from flat stock. I've also reinforced that joint on functional canes with a second dowel, made from either wood or fiberglass rod.
Would love to see a followup posting on your experience in cane making.
philipff
Member
My personal favorite wood is Crepe Myrtle. It is strong enough to hold up and still has a bit of flex so it is comfortable to us in any situation. In the winter, I use one that has a hardened nail in the bottom covered by a wine cork until the ice ans snow appear. P
WriteON
Member
Thanks everyone. I think I will start with a quality blank instead of a cheap dowel. First cane will use a handle from Rockler. I will be working on a DIY handle afterward. The 48" Taig lathe with a chisel tool bar helps the process.
Been searching but...... where to get 1.25 x 36 or 48" hardwood dowels aside from HD?
Been searching but...... where to get 1.25 x 36 or 48" hardwood dowels aside from HD?
Last edited:
dpstudios
Member
My problem with using a dowel is the possibility of grain run out. You should use as straight a grain as possible. I've always started with a piece of 6/4 material or a log and split out the blank I wanted to use. That way I was assured that I had long grain from top to bottom. Of course ,at that time, my tools of choice were a froe, a drawknife and a spring pole lathe.
lederer3617
Member
I went to Home Depot and purchased a soft yellow hollow material (sorry I do not remember brand) which was flexible and light. It can be found near the PVC pipes. Then after determining the length I would need, I glued into the center an appropriate sized dowel rod. I now have a stable and lightweight base to make the cane. I used varying woods and shapes to make the cane, made the handle, and put a rubber tip on the end. The cane has received lots of complements from woodturners, but interesting non turners did not give any compliments. Peter
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
bellforestproducts.com has a variety of wood dowels. I got this one from them.
Birdseye Maple Cane
My first item turned on a lathe aside from a pen . Got the blank from Bellforest Products . The hardware is from CSUSA , and I finished the wood with friction polish also from CSUSA . I eliminated the bushings and turned it as one piece . By not having a center support , I had to sand it as...
www.penturners.org
rholiday
Member
Rockler has oak 1-1/4 x 48.
Woodcraft has 1-1/4 x 36.
Bob
Woodcraft has 1-1/4 x 36.
Bob
donstephan
Member
If one end is in a four jaw chuck, the tailstock doesn't have to exert pressure along the lathe axis and whipping will be reduced.
I think I found a 2x2 turning blank, although it's possible I ripped it from a maple board. Handle and foot came from Treeline USA. Used a rubber foot that unscrewed to reveal a point for use on ice in winter.
jttheclockman
Member
You can always try a billiard cue web site. They will have both premium and seconds.
WriteON
Member
Good idea thanks. Will take a look.
I did order a few dowels from BellForest.
WriteON
Member
Song of the day "I'm Walking". Fedx just rang the bell. My next phase of wood turning begins. Gotta love this hobby. There's no finish line. First cane coming up. It'll mostly be a learning experience. I will be turning handles from blanks. No preforms. Should be fun.
Attachments
Last edited:
WriteON
Member
Thanks for referring BellForestProducts. Dowels seem perfect for what I'm doing. Service was fast.
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
You're welcome Frank! I'm glad it worked out. I had faith that it would. Those guys are great. And that was indeed fast return.
Your cane looks good!
Your cane looks good!
dogcatcher
Member
There is a Facebook page for canes out of Great Britain, a lot of great stuff and ideas on it.
www.facebook.com
A cane and walking source is Treeline woodcarving supply.
Log into Facebook
Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
www.facebook.com
A cane and walking source is Treeline woodcarving supply.
WriteON
Member
Thanks. I'm looking at their online catalog.There is a Facebook page for canes out of Great Britain, a lot of great stuff and ideas on it.
Log into Facebook
Log into Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family, and people you know.
A cane and walking source is Treeline woodcarving supply.
dogcatcher
Member
There is a man in Houston named Don Hartt that teaches cane carving classes, here is his website. http://www.donharttcanes.com/links.htm
Some of his patterns can be seen on his website, they might help give you some ideas.
Some of his patterns can be seen on his website, they might help give you some ideas.
WriteON
Member
I'm not a carver but just bought a MasterCarver flextool. If I was local I would take the course.
WriteON
Member
Sanding a long dowel(cane). I must say I hate sanding. It should be banned. No high capacity sand paper packs. Nobody under 100 should be able to possess it. Any sanding secretes/tips other that elbow grease. I'm losing the will to finish anything longer that a pen blank. I have lost it. I am ashamed. I'm embarrassed. My 8th grade wood shop teacher is rolling over. What has happened to me.
jttheclockman
Member
Come on now. You made one cane. We do get lazy because always a tool for everything. Use your imagination. They sell sanding sleeves, sanding pads, flapper sanders. You can make a jig and drill a hole in a length of 2 X 4 the size of the dowel and cut it in half. Use sticky back paper to the insides of the holes and set up in a vice and now just slide the dowel in and out. Change paper for next grit. Think outside the box.
WriteON
Member
Think outside the box. Magic words sir. Ok thanks. I'm back. Needed sympathy and a hug. Got 2 canes almost done. The fun of anything is when the finish goes on. Used Danish oil. Will work on a piece of Purpleheart next week. Looking to get a furniture finish.
jttheclockman
Member
No hugs. How did the Danish oil go and is that the finish now of your choice for these?? Have to do some segmenting in these long dowels to dress them up and add some conversation to the piece. Furniture finish is lacquer and French polished. Now you are talking classy.
WriteON
Member
Danish oil for the first 2. Tru-oil for the cherry.... not sure for purpleheart. First 2 canes are plain janes. Might add some character lines or minor carving to the next. After these 4 I'll work on a custom handle. Would like make a walking stick or 2.
Edit... maiden voyage... not too bad. Made a few mistakes but they serve as learning points. First... Cane is too tall. I realize they are sized for each person.... 36" is high for me... I'm 6'1". The contour a few inches below handle made up for a gouge the came with the blank. Poor picture on my end.
Edit... maiden voyage... not too bad. Made a few mistakes but they serve as learning points. First... Cane is too tall. I realize they are sized for each person.... 36" is high for me... I'm 6'1". The contour a few inches below handle made up for a gouge the came with the blank. Poor picture on my end.
Attachments
Last edited:
WriteON
Member
The tip combo is not up to par. The rubber piece unscrews after a few steps. I tightened it pretty snug but not to the max. Don't want to use any thread lockers...that'll kill the conversion. Has anyone use the tip combo?
WriteON
Member
Jatoba wood .... natural Danish oil... followed up with EEE. Poor picture sorry. I'm learning quickly. What to look for height wise. Realized some blanks are much heavier. Have no idea what I'm going to do with it but what else is new.
Attachments
Last edited:
robutacion
Member
Hi Folks,
I like walking sticks or canes as some call them, I have made a couple in all my woodworking years and while there are many suitable woods for this purpose, there ain't any that I would be more happy to make a cane with than the Wild Olive shuts, they are super strong, flexible and easy to work with, and if you find yourself in the middle of a fight or a dangerous situation where you require to defend yourself, Wild Olive shuts are worse than green Bamboo, they smack hard and bend back like a Boomerang...!
As for my choice of use, walking around with a nice cane in a peaceful environment would be a lot more pleasant...!
PS: I have a bunch of these Wild Olive shuts stored in my storage paddock that I haven't touch in many years, they were cut in 2006.
Cheers
George
I like walking sticks or canes as some call them, I have made a couple in all my woodworking years and while there are many suitable woods for this purpose, there ain't any that I would be more happy to make a cane with than the Wild Olive shuts, they are super strong, flexible and easy to work with, and if you find yourself in the middle of a fight or a dangerous situation where you require to defend yourself, Wild Olive shuts are worse than green Bamboo, they smack hard and bend back like a Boomerang...!
As for my choice of use, walking around with a nice cane in a peaceful environment would be a lot more pleasant...!PS: I have a bunch of these Wild Olive shuts stored in my storage paddock that I haven't touch in many years, they were cut in 2006.
Cheers
George
WriteON
Member
WriteON
Member
WriteON
Member
Totally out of control. I have no idea what I'm going to do with the canes but really enjoy putting them together. Might simply hang them on shop wall (garage) when I move.
Attachments
Woodchipper
Member
Save them for your old age? I'm using one now. Didn't make it, though.
WriteON
Member
Define old age.... I think I'm there.
Woodchipper
Member
I'm 72 but my father always said, "Old enough to know better; too young to resist."
WriteON
Member
72 also and just getting warmed up. I have more pens, canes, stoppers and rings than brains or hair on my head... still going strong and going on. Just finished a 48" pine dowel from HomeDepot. Less than $13 to complete.
Attachments
Woodchipper
Member
I viewed the photos. Nice and what kind of lathe is that? Unusual chucks, to me
TellicoTurning
Member
I don't know about the lathe, but the chucks are PSI mini chucks.... I use one to drill pen blanks on the lathe.
Woodchipper
Member
TT, thanks. Need to get up your way and do some fishing on the Tellico River. Maybe we could meet for coffee at the Hardees there.
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad