which sanding sealer

[wizical]

I have been reading on here that people are using the cellulose sanding sealer prior to using a CA/BLO finish. is it possible to use the Triple EEE as well, im going to try a CA finish tonight, so answers would be most appreciated. thanks

 

[wdcav1952]

Keven, throw away the EEE in my opinion. Use thin CA as your sealer. You know it is compatible with CA.

 

[Brewmeister35]

The cellulose sealer is Mylands. I have a jar of EEE I used on a few of my first pens and haven't used it since. If you get the CA to shine up nice, you might want to keep that EEE aging nicely in the jar.

 

[R2]

Keven, EEE is basically a polish Suspended ina shellac/wax. It shold not be used prior to using CA.

 

[Larry Gottlieb]

I use CA as a sealer and then as a finish. EEE is great after the CA. If you are going to use a friction polish use EEE before the polish

Those of you are going to throw it away, throw it to me.

Larry

 

[rherrell]

I use Mylands also. Just be sure to let it dry completely before applying your ca. I let them sit overnight. Finishing with ca correctly is really not as fast as you may think. It takes me 36 hrs. minimum, 12 for the sealer and 24 for the ca to cure before buffing. Even then I usually wait a week before assembly. I've had ALOT fewer failures this way.

 

[ed4copies]

Has anyone tried the water based sanding sealer?

Minwax????? One that's available at the big box stores - says it's compatible with water or lacquer finishes. I just bought one to try - good idea, bad idea or don't know yet???

 

[rherrell]

Uhhhhhhhhhhh..... I pick #3.

 

[GBusardo]

Hi, I am pretty sure the wax in EEE would not let the CA stick to the blank. The shelac in the EEE is another matter. Shelac is a great sealer because it dries extra quick and everything sticks to it. EEE has its uses, but I don't think this is one of them, unless you wipe down the blank with acetone to get rid of the wax. That might work. For some reason EEE gets a bad rap, lots of people use tripoli on a buffing wheel, but won't think of using EEE.

 

[RichW]

The water-based sealers WILL raise the grain and DON'T dry quickly. I like the Mylands cellulose sealer the best of everything I've used.

I "sand in" my first coast of sealer with 600 grit, let it dry (looks REALLY ugly) and then take it back down to the wood with 0000 steel wool. Then I apply multiple additional coats just like I would a friction polish with very little drying time between application and polishing. The objective is to force the sealer into the open pores of the grain and then heat it up with friction to speed up the out-gassing.

I then go to 800 and 1200 grit abrasives. If I'm going to use the Mylands high-build friction polish, I use HUT PPP sticks first, thenn apply the Mylands. For a CA finish, I use MicroMesh up to about 3600 and then apply the CA. I resand with 800 and 1200 and reapply CA as necessary to get a glassy surface and then use the HUT sticks followed by an application of pure Carnuba.

I usually let the blanks sit on my drying rack for at least a couple days before I assemble the pen. I find a CA finish to be as durable as anything I have tried and the Carnuba seems to keep it shining longer.

 

[JWW]

I use the deft lacquer sealer, friction dry on the lathe, knock it down with 0000 steel wool, then repeat and then eee does well followed by the shellawax or just leave it alone after the second coat of sealer. Depends on the wood and/or the look I want.