Waterlox

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I use waterlox on other turnings, but I was never really happy with it for pens.

I applied it to the wood while it was spinning on the lathe, simular to the way one would apply a friction polish.

Even after a couple of months the finish would feel soft after using the pen.
 
I've used it on a few pens, Sam. I brush it on and wipe off the excess. It gives a nice, warm, satin finish to a pen if you don't mind waiting at least a month to assemble it...more like 2-3 months and 6 months before it is fully cured.
 
Cure time is always a problem with Waterlox and similar oil/varnish finishes. I use it at times because I like the color that is imparted to some woods by the oils and varnish. It is also more acid resistent than most other finishes, making it a more durable finish for those whose body chemistry will eat off almost anything we can put on a pen.

It is a slightly harder finish than Deft Lacquer. The problem is that it has neither the hardness, gloss, or durability of a CA or Enduro finish, and neither of them require waiting a month before assembling the pen.

I use a soaking application of the Waterlox. I sand the wood to 12,000 Micro-Mesh, and then submurge them in a jar of the finish for 2 or 3 hours. They are then removed from the bath, the excess wiped away, and then they are set aside for at least 2-weeks in warm weather. After that they can be buffed with a white diamond wheel. Total time isn't very long, but there is the wait, and that can be 4 to 6 weeks or more in the winter. I don't plug the ends of the brass tubes, and clean them out at assembly with a bronze rifle bore brush.
 
I use it on about 25% of my pens for the reasons above,
a nice soft low shean natural finish.
I wipe it on with a rag and wipe off, ussually put 3-4 coats on, wait a day or two between coats.
 
Sam, here is a sample of Waterlox, These have three coats, then buffed.

Stabalized buckeye burl, no finish, just sand & buff, Cocobollo & amboyna have the Waterlox, birdseye maple lacquer,cocobollo on bottom CA.

20065961146_twist%20barrels.jpg
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If you want a softer finish, don't buff. still has a nice shine without the high gloss & plastic feel & look.
 
I read in a magazine about a knifemaker who uses Waterlox to stabilize the wood and stag he uses on his knife handles.

The article said that he also used a vacuum to saturate the wood and stag. There was no more detail about how he did it.

Robert
 
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