Using Gorilla Glue

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RosezPenZ

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A question to those that use Gorilla Glue. How do you keep the glue expansion from pushing the tubes out? Should I be cutting the blanks longer? Rubber bands, tape, clamp?
Help please.
 
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A question to those that use Gorilla Glue. How do you keep the glue expansion from pushing the tubes out? Should I be cutting the blanks longer? Rubber bands, tape, clamp?

Any of those work. I tend to cut my blanks 1/4" longer than the tube, so a little movement doesn't cause a problem. Also it helps to avoid getting too much glue in the tube - its expansion of the surplus glue at one end of the blank that is mainly responsible for the tube moving.
 
Cutting the blanks longer would be a waste. When I tried the GG, I used a clamp just long enough for it to start to set. However, I gave up on this. The only reason I used GG was to not "eat" the paint on the inside of blanks. I figured out that if I give the paint enough time to try, CA doesn't cause me any issue and so the GG wasn't worth the hassle.
 
Cutting the blanks longer would be a waste. When I tried the GG, I used a clamp just long enough for it to start to set. However, I gave up on this. The only reason I used GG was to not "eat" the paint on the inside of blanks. I figured out that if I give the paint enough time to try, CA doesn't cause me any issue and so the GG wasn't worth the hassle.

I tried it once and went right back to CA. I use the Insta-Flex + stuff and it has been awesome.
 
I'm allergic to CA glue. If I'm in a hurry, I use 5 minute epoxy, but if I'm preparing alot of blanks, I always use Gorilla glue. After gluing, I stack my blanks horizontally, and I've never had a problem with the tubes coming out of the blank.
 
We went from thick CA to GG and finally to epoxy. For the GG we would use rubber bands. The biggest problem with GG is when you get into some of the transparent blanks. Ugly bubbly look between the blank and the tube. We finally settled on the epoxy since we do a lot of work with the transparent blanks. I will add a drop or two of paint to the epoxy as I mix the two parts and have not had a problem with transparent blanks since.
 
I use Sumo, which is a competitor to Gorilla Glue. Sumo foams, but I have never had a tube slide out on me. I am completely sold on Sumo.
 
I've used GG a few times and didn't have this problem existed. I just glued it up, and set it down overnight. I never experienced the tubes being pushed out, but then I tried to make sure it was as horizontally level as possible since I figured setting it at an angle might cause the tubes to be pushed out.

I did notice the problem IDP mentioned, and have recently tried reverse painting to correct it. I haven't turned that blank yet, and the paint I used doesn't hold up to CA (CA is showing through white on a couple pieces I reverse painted, and it appears to have dissolved the paint), so we'll see once I turn the blank how it worked with the GG.
 
Have used Sumo, Guerilla and other ply glues, generally push out happens every now and then so I do one or two checks after gluing every 1/2 hr saved every one this way, I tend to glue up inside especially in the winter and will glue up to 40 or so pen twins at a time find batch work more efficient. Gorilla Glue is now available in this country after many years not allowed in with naming right probems in Austalasia. I can see bubbling in transparent blanks dozens of other glues for that. If you make unfussed insertions with Poly fewer problems anyway, I always use more rather than less glue.

Kind regards Peter
 
I use Gorilla Glue when I am concerned with a blank cracking, or with a delicate segmented blank. I usually make 8 pens at a time.

I have had this happen once or twice, I have a drying board made from a plastic (UHMW-ultra high molecular weight) cutting board. I tap small finishing nails at each end of the blank before moving the board off the work surface.
 
I just started using the white quick cure Gorilla Glue on wood blanks, and epoxy on plastics. The white GG doesn't seem to push out the tubes as bad as the original GG did, but I still use masking tape to hold the tubes in. Occasionally a tube will still push towards one end, but stays flush with the end of the blank if the tape is wrapped fairly tightly.
 
A question to those that use Gorilla Glue. How do you keep the glue expansion from pushing the tubes out? Should I be cutting the blanks longer? Rubber bands, tape, clamp?
Help please.


This is the reason I do not using Gorilla Glue.

Especially since meduim CA works so well, and causes none of these issues....plus I like Monty and would rather give one of our own the cha-ching!




Scott (ditch the Gorilla) B
 
I use GG on almost all of my blanks. Also use the white GG. I just put a small piece of masking tape on the ends, quick and easy. I have only had the tube move a couple times and is not really an issue for me. I also use epoxy on some with added color for those transparent blanks.
 
Masking tape, but Gorila Glue is a PITA, and messy, I went back to Epoxy, also there has been some of discussion about GG expanding after a time and causing cracking, I have never had it happen, but some have.
 
I use whjite GG on acrylics when I reverse paint. I feel like I get better glue coverage, better interaction with the paint and less of a chance of the glue showing through. I cover the tube well with the glue, insert it into the blanks and store it horizontally until dry. So far no issues with tube moveement.
 
I used 12" clamps on the blanks when I used Gorilla Glue. I started with CA - the smell was horrid, switched to GG, messy and I had some issues with tubes pulling loose while barrel trimming, have switched to 5 min. epoxy and am very happy with it.
 
When using GG, I use plumber's putty in the ends of the brass to keep GG out, the glue the tubes, place a small plastic parts bag over each end of the blank, then clamp with large hand clamp. Plastic bag easy pulls off without sticking and protects your clamps.

I usually use epoxy but sometimes choose GG when hole and tube do not fit snugly.
As always YMMV.
 
Masking tape, but Gorila Glue is a PITA, and messy, I went back to Epoxy, also there has been some of discussion about GG expanding after a time and causing cracking, I have never had it happen, but some have.

Funny.. This is the reason that I gave up not only GG, but also epoxy (messy and a pain). I will use epoxy on occasion for very special materials, but for normal woods and acrylics thick CA is the way for me. The one big advantage that will cause me to use epoxy is if I absolutely positively want the inside painted 100%, cause even though I reverse paint, if I have a transparent blank that I want to 100% be sure of the paint job, epoxy is the only one that I think is "tintable" where you can add paint to the glue.

This is definitely one of those "what works for YOU" discussions. Looks like CA, GG, and epoxy each have their own answers.
 
So in other words, there is no perfect glue. I prefer polyurethane, but just now finished gluing up a cigar with 15 minute epoxy because I am in a hurry. But I find it quicker when doing multiple pens to use poly.
 
Re: Gorilla Glue

I use GG only on wood blanks so no problem with glue showing on transparent blanks. I have never had tubes push out.

Regards,

Larry

A question to those that use Gorilla Glue. How do you keep the glue expansion from pushing the tubes out? Should I be cutting the blanks longer? Rubber bands, tape, clamp?
Help please.
 
So tapeing tight and clamping works. I primarily use med. CA glue. In making my last pen out of Afrcain Blackwood, and it cracked, thankfully prior to finishing. I read up and it seemed a Lot of ya were using GG on African Blackwood. My past experience with GG was a waste in time and expensive, so I wanted to avoid that mess again. I'm on my last blank.
Thanks for all you input.
 
IPD, thanks for that hint I will try that later.
So I used the GG with the blackwood and then used clear packaging tape (what I had on hand) and taped around the ends. Let it dry maybe 3 days and started in. First 3 ends I trimmed were wonderful, 4th blew out and split the blank down in 3 parts. I'm really careful about trimming so I don't know what happened, since I went to using the drill press I've had really good luck and few blow outs. Anyway, two sides came completely off the tube and there is a very thin layer of glue left on the wood. I did rough up the blank, so I wonder was it the glue? it was new to me with in the past year but had been opened. So I've got a new piece of black wood ordered, I'm debating what to try next, I guess I'll go get epoxy, but I hate to open it up for only one or two pen blanks.
 
I use both CA and 5 minute epoxy and see a place for both.

I have never used GG. What is the advantage of using it with pens? From reading all the posts, there seem to be a lot of disadvantages-tubes slipping out, messy, some blank cracking. There must be a reason that some people swear by it.

Would appreciate it if somebody could educate me!
 
I've used both Sumo and Gorilla glue with similar results. Sumo glue dries a little faster. The trick to having the foam not push the brass out is to lay it flat on a work bench. If it is tinted, the tube will shift. Both glues work really well with painted acrylic blanks and brittle wood like Purple Heart or Bloodwood. I have not had a pen blow apart on the lathe since I quit using CA glue. Even when teaching cub scouts how to use a lathe and they get a little aggressive with the wood. Before that, I had a several blow apart.
 
Gorillia glue along with Sumo are excellent with filling small gaps or voids. That being said if you hole is not perfect or the brass tubes seem a tad loose then the polys like GG work great! I mainly only use it on wood blanks, I dampen the inside of the blank and then put some on the tube and slide the tube in and position it leave it on its side to dry I dont cover the ends or use clamps of any kind. Youll find everyone has their method to approach the same end result. I have not had the tube move on me at all but then again I wet the inside of the blank to accelerate the curing. I hope this sheds some light for you.
 
I use GG when I prep blanks for Turn for Troops events. I usually work in batches of 50. I use it because I have lots of it and the smell from CA doesn't get to you after a while. As I'm gluing in tubes I just keep an eye on the ones done. If they start to pop out I just push them back in. Your OK as long as it doesn't start to set up. I also trim off excess and make sure the inside of the tubes are clear before it finishes curing. At this point it's still soft and easy to work with. A lot easier than after it's dry.


When working with GG make sure you wear disposable gloves and work on waxed paper and clean up is easy.

If I'm just doing one or two pens I use CA.
 
most of the time I use Gorilla Glue. I glue my blank on a sheet of glass, and then stand them up horizontally. I have never had a problem with the tubes coming out. after they have dried, they just pop on the glass with ease. I then take a flat wood chisel and scrape the glue of the to with one pass.
 
I use Gorilla glue when I think there might be any moisture in the wood that would cause the CA to cure before the tube is all the way in. That's always very annoying! I've also been using it when the hole seems a little loose, but I think I'm going to switch to epoxy for that.
 
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