Twist Mechanism Lubrication

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TonyL

TonyL

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Joined
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I think I know what that film on the twist mechanisms may be for. I very often wipe it off with a paper towel because I don't want to get it on my finish. Even thought it is on the outside of the mechanism, can it affect the internal "twist" forced needed to extend and retract the refill?

In any event, is there a way to lubricate the twist mechanism. I am specifically talking about the Sierra, Polaris, Patriot, Liberty, etc. type.


Thank you.
 
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While this is not directly lubrication, I have found that if a little epoxy or whatever gets inside the tube, it can similarly cause a slow mechanism. This can be avoided by capping the tube with wax/etc preventatively, but after the damage is done it can still be cleaned up with a rat-tail file.
 
Thank you, but I use wax (purchased from Exotics) and use a rat tail file as a precautionary measure regardless of what can be seen inside the tube...I then used forced air to blow-out an small debris. Thanks though!
 
TonyL said:
Thank you, but I use wax (purchased from Exotics) and use a rat tail file as a precautionary measure regardless of what can be seen inside the tube...I then used forced air to blow-out an small debris. Thanks though!
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No problem. I'm new enough that I'm still learning these things (and my wax is currently in the mail), so I figured I'd chime in in case you were still dealing with my novice issues.
 
Not a problem at all. Your response may help someone else. I don't glue a tube without the wax - great idea/invention! In addition to a rat tail file...some also use a gun barrel cleaning wire brush (attached to a drill or by-hand). Happy turning!
 
This is what makes this forum work so well. We all chime in & we learn from each other. I've been turning pens for several years now. I never thought of using one of my small gun cleaning brushes to clean up the inside of a tube. I use a shotgun brush to clean out my morse tapers on my lathe but never thought about going to a smaller brush sizes for the tubes. I always just take a strip of sandpaper & wrap it around the tip of my tube insertion tool to clean out any glue.
 
ChewTerr said:
TonyL said:
Thank you, but I use wax (purchased from Exotics) and use a rat tail file as a precautionary measure regardless of what can be seen inside the tube...I then used forced air to blow-out an small debris. Thanks though!
Click to expand...

No problem. I'm new enough that I'm still learning these things (and my wax is currently in the mail), so I figured I'd chime in in case you were still dealing with my novice issues.
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ChewTerr, while you are waiting on your wax to arrive, grab you a potato. Slice it up & push your tubes into it. I like it as well as wax. I also use play dough to plug my tubes.
 
I'ld say that any kind of silicone lubricant should work to lube those mechanisms ... You don't want anything acidic, because that will eat the metal parts ... you don't want anything that will melt the plastic, so harsh chemicals that can dissolve plastic are out..


If all else fails, a small dab of vasaline on a q-tip is probably a good idea, but you can take some twist pen mechanisms that have failed on you or are in the "waste bucket" and test out various lubes with them till you've found one to your liking that is locally available and cheap.
 
I have used a drop of 3 in 1 oil on my slim twists to loosen them up. I find the cheaper kits are often stiff and a drop down the top before putting in the refill helps smooth the action.
 
I wipe down the outside of transmissions with DeNatured Alcohol, and put about 10-12 drops of DNA inside the transmission then blow it out to make it easier to twist. Some transmissions are so "stiff" that the transmission unscrews from the pen when trying to retract the ink fill.
 
I need to test the twist mech before insertion. I encounter this issue mainly with the friction fit (versus the screw-in) type.
 
Hey Tony, on the few pens that I have encountered that have an overly stiff transmission in them--unscrewing the pen when operating as Randyrls talked about, I have put a couple of small drops of Nano-Oil on them and it worked the trick--you can find Nano-Oil on E-bay and Amazon I use the heavier weight stuff either 15 or 10 I believe.
 
Not sure if its helpful or harmful but I use a 50/50 mix of beeswax and mineral oil to lubricate the mechanism in all my pens and it works great.
 
Here you go Tony! I picked this oiler up at a local clock shop. Pinpoint oiling.
 

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Wow...more great stuff. Thank you. This is an amazing forum. The folks here are second to none.
 
TonyL said:
Nice... I was going to use a diabetes syringe. This looks much safer. Thank you.
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That is exactly what I use for small things that need to be oiled just cap it
when done.Tri-flo being a synthetic does not effect the plastic or rubber
the syringe is made of.
 
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Slimline transmissions internal lubrication is a grease not an oil. If the transmission is stiff warming it a little will often loosen it enough. Sometimes working the transmission 10-15 times will be enough. You can put a little oil in the transmission but that sometimes causes them to miss the stop that you can feel when extending the refill.
 
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