Turning tools on multiple CA coats?

[Woodchipper]

I just finished gluing several wood blanks. In the past, I noted that there are high and low places with the CA. Can take a lot of sanding and MM to get a good even finish. Pondered using a turning tool for smoothing the surface prior to fine sanding and MM. Will experiment with a skew, round nose scraper, spindle gouge. Anyone tried this or done this?

 

[NJturner]

I am not sure I understand your comment. Are you saying that your blanks naturally have high and low spots or that your blanks are smooth but after the coats of CA that the surface varies? Either way, I think some modifications to your workflow might be required.

CA should go on pretty smooth and flat. An application with a towel or some craft foam should leave possible minor texture to the surface which may need polishing out, but if it's not nearly flat after application, something is being done wrong.

Turning a blank - it isn't really finished until it is smooth and round. If you still have low spots, it's not done. However you turn your blanks - tooling is your choice, they all work including simple files or sandpaper - the blank needs to be turned round, smooth and dimensionally correct before applying finish. If you finish turning and its again not flat and smooth, something is possibly wrong with your technique. Maybe tear out is what you are seeing - ??

Am I missing something or not understanding your question?

Kevin

 

[duncsuss]

I've had that same problem, and decided the best use of my time would be to practise the application of CA to reduce the ripples rather than attempt to fix them afterwards. It took a while but the improvement in technique paid dividends.

 

[bugradx2]

I've had that same problem, and decided the best use of my time would be to practise the application of CA to reduce the ripples rather than attempt to fix them afterwards. It took a while but the improvement in technique paid dividends.

If what Duncan is asking is the source of your question then I'd agree. I'd look at how you're applying the CA. I had a problem for a while with some pens and figured out the way I was first contacting the pen with the CA and the relative amount of CA were combining to give me an issue.

If you're saying the blank has low spots when you're ready to apply CA then that's a different issue. It could be the wood or it could be a technique. I'd like to think my technique is decent but I will tell you that redwood, even when stabilized, can give me absolute fits because it's density is really wonky.

 

[MillerTurnings]

I have used carbide tools with a light touch to help smooth out the CA finish. As others have said, try and get the CA application as smooth as possible first. My problem was trying to apply too much at a time to build up the finish. Any time saved was wasted trying to sand it back out later, and it never looked as good. Now I just apply one or two drops at a time.

 

[egnald]

I concur with the advise of smoother application. I used to have uneven CA thickness when I started finishing as well. My solution was to apply more but thinner coats of CA. I tried the closed cell foam and plastic bag application methods but was never able to get the knack of getting a smooth application. My regimen for quite a few years has been to use small pads made from Viva signature cloth paper towels and applying a dozen or more very thin coats. Although I throw far more CA away on the pads than I get on the pen, it has given me the most consistent results with the most consistent CA thickness. About a year or so ago I started using the GluBoost CA finishing products and I am very happy with them. - Dave

 

[JohnU]

It happens, especially using the thicker glues. Spiral ridges can occur if putting the glue on thick. I try not to do that but sometimes I'm less patient and just want to get it done and apply more than I should. I've used a skew to level it all out before sanding. Saves a lot of time and sandpaper.