I guess a washer/dryer trumps a fridge any day of the week… that's too funny! :biggrin:…. I am a bit jealous of the fridge, but hey I have a washer/dryer, 3 bikes, a water heater and everything else that doesn't fit in the house in my garage...er, I mean my shop.
Nope, just your plane-jane mt2 dead center, 3.1” long….Is your dead center a special one? ....
Someone made these things last year but I forgot who, if someone remembers please post their name since they are a good idea. I made mine out of a solid piece of steel and simply take an adhesive backed sanding disk, cut a strip then punch some holes with an old leather punch. I don’t even bother rounding the pads, just stick one on. The white inserts are made from delrin rods and turned down to fit the ID of the tubes I use. The center hole provides a SNUG fit on the sander shaft. See the photo below.Could you post some information about your sander and busing adapters? That looks like a great idea ….
Good idea! Rough sandpaper is a HUGE culprit and takes a LOT of sanding to remove the deep scratches which try their darndest to stay ‘till the bitter end and ruin an otherwise nice shiny finish!….I don't use the skew to clean up the CA I just start with a rougher sandpaper. I was thinking of getting a scraper or modifying the flat skew I don't use anymore to do the same thing.
Oh that's nice........ steal from an old guy trying to make ends meet on a fixed income pension! :frown:I don't know where to get one today but after the next time I go to George's shop, we might be able to have an auction for one!
Nice tutorial George!
Fantastic tutorial. I am going to try it just the way you've outlined.....EXCEPT, I don't know if I have the nerve eek to present a skew to the blank after adding all my coats of CA.
I am very comfortable with the skew, and do a great deal of my turning with one, but it seems you'd have to be mighty careful to only take off maybe 1 or 2 thousands so as to not cut all the way through the CA in some place.............has this ever been a major concern of yours?
No, because I sneak up on the blank so carefully that taking thick fuzz off is too much at a time! If you think about shaving thin fuzz off rather than cutting the CA off, you will do a lot better at it than you think. YES, I have cut through the CA into the wood and it's easy to tell because white fuzz is CA, colored fuzz isn't. If I cut through to wood I simply stop and apply more CA!
Have you ever measured --roughly-- how many thousands you are adding when applying , for instance, 8 or 10 coats of thin CA to the blank?
A hard question to answer, I know, since so many factors are involved; application pressure, viscosity of the CA used, number of coats, etc...........but I'm just trying to get a rough idea of how much leeway, so to speak, you have when you put that skew up against that blank to flatten the CA.
It's easier to determine than you think. Have a look at the caliper readout in step 14 then in step 18. Those are real readings, the first is the blank turned down, the second is after the CA is applied.
Thanks for the tutorial though. Good job.
Not really a problem, Mike, if you use the bushing sizes for your guide. If you run larger slim lines and make your own center bands or don't use center bands. you may need to come up with something different, or use calipers.For those of you turning between centers, I wonder if you find it an issue when doing slims or similar pens with two halves. Since I'm new, when I'm turning the slims, I like to see the top and bottom halves together so I can make sure their contours match each other. Is this not and issue for most of you?
No, you are not missing anything, I just put both blanks together for the photo. When turning between centers I turn one blank at a time. I've never given any thought to mounting two blanks at once since I guess I have done it this way so long, I see no benefit to trying two at once.Great tutorial. I have started TBC with some acrylic blanks that I had with the brass tubes already installed. I liked your idea of the sanding tool so much that I made one using a mandrel nut (since I don't need the mandrel nut anymore) and a 1/4-32 bolt with the head cut off.
I guess I am missing something. In Step 10 you show the upper and lower blanks with bushings installed but in Step 11 it looks as if you are only turning one blank. Is this correct - you turn each blank individually? Is there a way to turn and finish both blanks at the same time as is done using a mandrel, or is this one of the downsides of TBC?
It is one of those carbide insert turning tools that was all the rage around here earlier this year. I made this one and ordered a slew of carbide tips for it this summer. Due to the angle of the very sharp carbide cutter it cuts rather than scrapes. At first I thought... what a piece of crap, what's everyone so excited about?" I soon found the proper angle of attack and where the "edge sweet spots" were and found that it was perfect for truestone blanks as it cut through them like a warm knife through margarine and I didn’t have to stop and re-sharpen every few minutes like I did with my skew! Now it is the tool I grab when I start turning a pen blank, bowl or just about anything...... I would like to know about the tool you use to turn your blanks. What is it? Maybe I missed something but it looks like a flat scraper.
Thanks Justin... that saves me from having to create my own....With George's Permission, I have converted this thread to a PDF for people to save to their computer.
Hope it helps! :biggrin: