Tired of Turing with a dull Skew!!!!

[redneckmedic]

I want to preface this saying that I usually all but pride myself on being about to sharpen about every tool edge I own, from dozens of different types of knives, to chisels, mower blades, and even power tool teeth. So I do understand the concepts of sharpening... in general.

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I've tried every trick, article, how to, and youtube video idea there is. I can't get my tools sharp enough to serve warm butter on a cold roll! I'm going nuts. I think I have a nice sharp tool, it looks clean, feels pointy, but at the turn I'm lucky to scrape a blank round before my ears bleed from the noise I make from the vibration.

Now I know I just described several different thoughts so let me back up to my process and experiences.

I have a Delta sharpening system (pictured below). Several files, a couple stones, an Apex edge pro system, a couple small diamond files with a 1" face.

What I have done is create a tool rest from wood that has a 45 degree corner and a long arm to simulate this.

The white stone is fairly fine, not sure the grit, but does well enough. I adjust the arm out so that my skew or gouge face angle is flat against the stone. I turn the grinder on, run back and forth nice and easy, until the face is equal and smooth, repeat on the other side. Then I stand the tool on end and using my stone I knock off the burr on each side with a dozen or so controlled passes. Seems fairly good, but none the less its just a little better than it was before.

I turned a simple PR single tube for a Sierra Click pen today, as always I rounded the blank with a gouge then switched to my skew, and if the tool wasn't 100% parallel with the blank it would bounce or chip. Every article I've read about a skew says that you use the last half of the blade as you move it to cut the blank. Not today, no ribboning, no smoothness, just screeching and vibration. I wish I could get the upper half of my sharpening system to hold my tool, the problem is the tool HSS body is oval and won't hold consistently, at least I don't know how to make it hold well.

Turning wood is generally not a problem, and I remember well enough when this tool was sharp (new) how well she cut PR.

Please advise. (and I do know for every turner there is a different method for sharpening)

THX RNM

 

[alphageek]

Well, I wouldn't call myself an expert, but reading your description I can think of one possible suggestion.

You said this: "but at the turn I'm lucky to scrape a blank round". My suggestion is to use a different tool to round the blank, then switch to your sharp skew. I have multiple tools, including multiple skews, but I find acrylics go much better if I save my favorite skew for the last part of doing a blank. I actually use a pretty hefty spindle gouge for roughing since it gets me rounded and to rough shape faster. Then I switch to my nice sharp skew for the last part of turning.

Is is possible your dulling it too much during the initial turning? And how about a picture of the skew? Is it truely not sharp (I use the "shave the arm" test since I have no lack of arm hair

 

[Lenny]

What speed are you turning at?
Try turning at near your lathe's top speed and see I it makes a difference.

 

[redneckmedic]

Good points....

I generally always turn the blank from square to round with my gouge, then switch to my skew.

I generally turn at 2800-3200 IIRC and finish sand at about 580rpms.

 

[keithkarl2007]

Are you using the skew to cut or scrape? The only time you would hear a screech with any tool is when scraping. Scraping with any tool causes it to lose it's edge very quickly. You may get 10-15 seconds before it needs re-sharpening.

 

[Boz]

Could be the way you are holding the tool. I have with the same tool on the blank with one pass had lots of vibration and awful noises. Next pass holding the skew at a different angle get a smooth even pass with nice long strings. Also I have found that as you pass across the blank you need to adjust the angle you are holding it at.

 

[SC_Turner]

I struggle with the skew myself but one thing you wrote sounds familiar. You mentioned noise and vibration. I read somewhere that the noise and vibration are a result of too much bevel riding the blank. If I remember correctly the user should twist their wrist slightly to engage the cut and thus remove some of the rubbing bevel. I believe this is the point Boz was making as well. Good Luck!

 

[Wood Butcher]

Something that really helped me was the Alan Lacer video, The Dark Side. Here's a link but I borrowed it from the local Rockler store for $3 a week, don't know if they still loan them.
WoodCentral's Video Reviews: The Skew Chisel: The Dark Side / The Sweet Side, by Alan Lacer
WB

 

[theidlemind]

I have trouble with acrylic and a skew chisel because the long strands coming off get wrapped back around the blank and the blank actually gets bigger as I turn.
But those long strands leave a finish smooth enough to go straight to micro mesh. It's worth the hassle to learn a skew. Tried a hollow grind yet?

 

[firewhatfire]

Can't help with anything other than reccomending a Woodchuck Pen Pro. thats what I use to finish turning.

Cause I am not the best sharpener in the shed.:biggrin:

Phil

 

[Boz]

If you are throwing long strings that are wrapping around the blank and the lathe. I use an old tooth brush to clean the blank and the tool rest. Sometimes you must do this after every pass of the tool. You don't want to be sticking your fingers into the spinning machine.

 

[Janster]

All I can add is...........

.........I round off all four corners on my belt sander before I even get to the lathe! Saves a buch of time for me. Be well..............Jan

 

[Phillikl]

Here is a technique I used to learn the skew. Took a few tries to get it down, then ended up biting the bullet and turned 50 blanks straight from square to finished. Believe it or not didn't have to sharpen it once (last few where PR and still got nice streamers)!


Turning & Finishing Inlay Blanks - YouTube

Another thing. If PR wants to crack/chip/blow up, it's going to do it! No matter sharp, how fast, or how talented you are, it has a mind of its own an will do what it wants, when it wants.

 

[tommax]

Since you asked about sharpening and this thread has turned into a skew tutorial... I have a Tormek T7, it's expensive but is the best. Google for it and watch some videos. Conceptually I was sharpening the same way with my knock off Grizzly but never seemed to get my tools really sharp due to the lack of precision. The Tormek sharpening system and jigs are worth every penny.

 

[Wildman]

Cannot comment on sharpening think you have procedure down, just need some practice with the skew.

I can cut with heel, toe, or middle of the skew just by changing grip and angle of attack. Only secret can pass along is make sure have bevel support and do not rush the cut. Let the skew do its job.

After years of practice will find the bevel then lift handle to start cutting. Kind of like lifting foot off the clutch driving standard shift car changing gears. Except using my hands and body movement to move skew along the wood/acrylic.

Yes, still get dig-ins or spirals when rushing cuts or pressing too hard with dull tool and losing bevel support turning beads or spheres. Quit trip to grinder and reorganizing brain house group normally gets me back on track.

 

[Dale Lynch]

My suggestion is to sharpen by hand one stroke at a time.I use a Smiths 600g diamond hone.I sharpen till it shaves arm hair.After that lap it on a linen strop with the .5 micron green strop dressing.I do this till it shaves facial hair.This puts a convex bevel on the skew,whole lot easier to control.

 

[switch62]

If you think that the problem is with sharpening your skew, first have a look at this skew sharpening jig. You could make your own to add to the jig you've already made. Also have a look at the instructional videos, especially the one for the skew.

You also mention that you need to have the skew 100% parallel to the blank. Do you mean the cutting edge of the tool needs to be parallel ?

If that's the case, then you are trying to use it like a scraper. That will not work as either the long or short corner will catch, especially if the cutting edge is level with the centre of the blank.

The skew needs to be used more like a plane or knife when whittling. The cutting edge should be riding above the center of the blank and at an angle to the drection of travel. The short corner should lead but never touch the blank. Cutting should only occur on the lower half of the blade but above the short corner. The skew shaft/handle should be at 90-45 degrees to the blank, that automatically places the cutting edge at an angle to the blank.

I hope this helps

Tony O

 

[switch62]

If you use a mandrel, check that it's not bent. If it's bent then you will get vibration and screeching.

If the mandrel is straight you may need to tighten the brass nut on the mandrel in case the blanks are slipping. I use a mandrel saver and recently my mandrel has become slightly bent, got some vibration and the last pen barrels I made aren't round. ( I know TBC)

Tony O

 

[Dick Mahany]

Once I changed to the Lacer grind and developed better technique, my skew woes disappeared. I use the "peeling" cut ( like rotary slicing veneer from a log) to get to a cylinder with the long point first. Then I switch to a slicing/scraping cut in the center of the curved edge to get the final shape.

 

[Wildman]

Red went looking for information for your Jet sharpening system and did not find anything. Kept finding info on Jet's Tormek clone sharpening system..

Guessing top water wheel grit on your system pretty fine and requires you to hold tools to wheel longer. White wheel is your dry grinding wheel?

Just adjusting tool holder on top wheel should provide mirror bevels. Free hand sharpening on white wheel will give better results than wolverine vee arm set up.

If you had a 6" or 8" white wheel on your system would recommend buying this two part jig system. Your white wheel looks like less than 6 inches. So save your money and perhaps make something like these jigs. For either wheel.

Buy Veritas Straight Grinding Jig at Woodcraft
Buy Veritas Grinder Tool Rest at Woodcraft

I use dry bench grinder & wolverine sharpening system and free hand sharpen my skew chisels.

This optional skew jig is worthless, wasted my money it sits collecting dust. Buy Wolverine Skew Jig at Woodcraft

I use this bar system or platform for free hand sharpening, diamond dressing thingy collects dust.

Buy Wolverine Dressing Attachment at Woodcraft