That holly I dried

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

sorcerertd

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
2,724
Location
North Carolina, USA
That holly seemed to dry well with minimal cracks. Apparently, that wasn't the case. It looked good until I started carving it. There's another one I drilled and can easily see the splitting inside. Bummer. There may yet be some good pieces in the pile.

20210520_161058.jpg
 
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad

leehljp

Member Liaison
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
9,331
Location
Tunica, Mississippi,
I have a ton (almost literally) of log cut-offs and one of the realizations I had to accept was that even with sealing, I would get cracks. That meant that I should plan on the outer length of 6 to 8 inches of having check marks/cracks. If not, then great.

in making blanks from green wood, they should be about 1 1/4 square to allow for shrinkage, and as you discovered, should allow about 2 inches or more in length to allow for cracking. AND the ends should be sealed.

If anyone has (and many have) purchased blanks and noticed the ends dipped in wax up up to about 3/4 of an inch or maybe 1 inch - that is to prevent the end cracks exactly as as you experienced.

Cracks occur on the ends because they dry out at a faster rate than the other parts, - the reason for sealing the ends.
 

sorcerertd

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
2,724
Location
North Carolina, USA
I have a ton (almost literally) of log cut-offs and one of the realizations I had to accept was that even with sealing, I would get cracks. That meant that I should plan on the outer length of 6 to 8 inches of having check marks/cracks. If not, then great.

in making blanks from green wood, they should be about 1 1/4 square to allow for shrinkage, and as you discovered, should allow about 2 inches or more in length to allow for cracking. AND the ends should be sealed.

If anyone has (and many have) purchased blanks and noticed the ends dipped in wax up up to about 3/4 of an inch or maybe 1 inch - that is to prevent the end cracks exactly as as you experienced.

Cracks occur on the ends because they dry out at a faster rate than the other parts, - the reason for sealing the ends.
The weird thing is that the ends looked fine. I would have expected less splitting inside the blank. Here's another one that I had drilled before the one above. This one is 3 1/4" and the cracks can be seen through the entire length of the hole even though no cracks can be seen on the outside length. I thought it might look cool to do a kintsugi type fix, but I'm not sure what to use as filling.

20210521_102319.jpg
 

1080Wayne

Member
Joined
Feb 5, 2006
Messages
3,344
Location
Brownfield, Alberta, Canada.
Todd , my brain decided to start working about 3 weeks ago , after 15 years of doing the end sealing , slow drying in cool room storage for a year or two , ending with cracks usually about the diametral depth into the length .

I was cutting a piece of caragana about 2 in diameter with the part being cut off unsupported , and as you would expect , it broke before being cut through , leaving about 1/8 in of wood and bark on the main piece . In trying to clean up the cut , I accidentally peeled a strip of the bark off , about 2 in long . Didn`t think that looked great , so did the same around the diameter , but the strips kept going farther and farther down the length as I did this , changing direction as required to go around small knots and aborted branches . In the end , I stripped the entire 6 ft piece down to the phloem , waxed the ends , and put it in the cool room .

Thought I should do a more controlled experiment the next day , so took a 12 in potential spurtle (1.5 in dia) , weighed it , removed the bark , leaving the wood surface very wet to the touch . Note : Sap had only just begun to rise , so I guessed overall MC maybe 30% . I sealed the ends with wax and went to bed . Felt dry when checked about 15 hours later , so weighed it - down about 21 % from initial weight with bark on . Today , 3 weeks later , it is down 41% from initial weight , sitting in my living room the whole time .

Guess what this does is confirm what I learned in Biology 65 years ago - the principle function of bark is to contain the moisture needed by the plant to stay alive . But , I think it may also suggest a way to reduce end checking and speed up natural drying of green wood . Not all wood barks are as waterproof or as easy to peel as paper birch , of course . Hammer and chisel probably required for most large diameter species .
 

sorcerertd

Member
Joined
Sep 30, 2019
Messages
2,724
Location
North Carolina, USA
That is not what I would have expected either!

Red, black, turquoise, blue - most contrasting colors should look good.
Hmm, but in what medium? Maybe tinted epoxy after I cut down to a mm or two from the bushings? Wonder if a basic resin from Hobby Lobby would sink into the cracks well enough? Pour it through and redrill to clean the hole after it sets?
 

leehljp

Member Liaison
Joined
Feb 6, 2005
Messages
9,331
Location
Tunica, Mississippi,
Hmm, but in what medium? Maybe tinted epoxy after I cut down to a mm or two from the bushings? Wonder if a basic resin from Hobby Lobby would sink into the cracks well enough? Pour it through and redrill to clean the hole after it sets?
Resin would probably be good. I would test a piece to see if the resin colors leached into the wood itself. It would certainly be interesting. This might be a new thing - and create a design in turned pen blanks.
 
Top Bottom