Table saw questions

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Haynie

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I can't afford a brand new table saw so I have been looking at craig"s list.

Looks like I will have to purchase an older saw since I don't want a little contractor's saw. I want something sturdy, and accurate but know nothing about these older cabinet saws. What should I be looking for, and what should I watch out for?
 
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Scruffy

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What counts in a table saw.

I think saw type, power of motor, size and flatness of work surface and Fence design and operation.

You have already decided for a hybrid or cabinet size. If you get a motor larger than 1 1/2 hp it will probably require 220 and be well over 250 lbs.

Size of the work surface is important to me. If you are going to do nothing but smaller projects maybe it doesn't matter that much.

The accuracy of the fence (maybe the ability to tune the fence) is very, very important.

Rip capacity and dust collection are also important but that is personal preference.
 

Dan Masshardt

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It all depends what you want to use it for. Cabinet saws are mostly 220 and will probably cost as much used as many smaller saws cost new.

For me the quality and stability of the fence as well as the table size are most important.
 

BSea

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I think saw type, power of motor, size and flatness of work surface and Fence design and operation.

You have already decided for a hybrid or cabinet size. If you get a motor larger than 1 1/2 hp it will probably require 220 and be well over 250 lbs.

Size of the work surface is important to me. If you are going to do nothing but smaller projects maybe it doesn't matter that much.

The accuracy of the fence (maybe the ability to tune the fence) is very, very important.

Rip capacity and dust collection are also important but that is personal preference.
I think fence accuracy is the most important. Without it, you'll spend more time setting up for an accurate cut than you will making cuts. I have a craftsman table saw I bought new in the early 80's. About 4 years ago, I bought an after market fence. Now I can set the fence where I want it, lock it in place, and make accurate cuts every time. Of course, the problem is that the fence itself cost several hundred dollars. I don't know what your budget is, but you might take that into consideration before purchasing an old table saw.

Of course, you can make accurate cuts using an older fence, but you just have to spend the time during set up.
 

Russianwolf

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If you can find one

Ryobi BT3000 or BT3100.

Out of production now (but seen on craigslist occasionally, Sears may still have a model available) and you might laugh at them, but they are dead accurate once you set them up, and hold that accuracy unless you move them A LOT.

I've had mine (bought new) for 10 years and love it still. WHEN it dies, I'll upgrade it to a European style saw most likely. Must haves for me are a riving knife (not spliter) and a slide table. Once you use those items, you never want to go back.

I've sawn 16/4 Wenge with it and as long as you take small passes (I've never tried the full height cut something like this) it does just fine.

Here is the Sears version, I'd likely loose the folding stand as I'm not sure how good it is, but building a base is easy.

http://www.sears.com/craftsman-prof...p-00921829000P?prdNo=7&blockNo=7&blockType=G7
 
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Haynie

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I am looking to do more fine flat work. This is not possible on my POS cheap as dirt "skil" table saw. The only skill needed for this thing is holding it steady when it turns on. The initial torque makes it jump and slide two inches. Then you have to hold it still while you cut or the whole saw slowly rotates. Did I mention it was a POS?

Really need something better. Good enough won't cut it for me. The hybrid/cabinet saws seem to fit this bill.

I have seen a couple Grizzly 1023s on the list for around $500. Is this a decent price for a decent saw?
 

GaryMGg

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Hi Mark,

An older Craftsman (mid-60's or 70's) Emerson Electric contractor's saw for about $100-200 with an upgraded fence is a good deal.
An older unisaw for about $500 is a good deal depending on what it comes with.

My 3 HP 52" Unisaw was $900 used including a $150 Woodworker blade, an upgraded $150 miter guage, a $450 HTC roller outfeed table, an HTC complete roller system for the saw (about $300).

My experience is used should be no more than 50% of the original price
AND should be in very good or better condition.
Otherwise, wait for one--it'll be there.

$500 for a Grizzly cabinet saw isn't too bad depending on condition and what comes with it.
 

Russianwolf

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I am looking to do more fine flat work. This is not possible on my POS cheap as dirt "skil" table saw. The only skill needed for this thing is holding it steady when it turns on. The initial torque makes it jump and slide two inches. Then you have to hold it still while you cut or the whole saw slowly rotates. Did I mention it was a POS?

Really need something better. Good enough won't cut it for me. The hybrid/cabinet saws seem to fit this bill.

I have seen a couple Grizzly 1023s on the list for around $500. Is this a decent price for a decent saw?


With a cabinet or hybrid, its all about condition.If its in good shape, $500 would be a steal (retail is about $1200 if I recall). But if there is a problem, you can spend more time/money tracking it down than you will believe. Insist on doing some test cuts in their shop "oh, you can't get it to reach a plug"... walk away. You may get lucky and find the diamond just needing to be polished.
 

Scruffy

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The 1023 comes in a number of ...

configurations. I think the version (G1023R) they have out now sells from $1300-1700.

I don't know about the earlier versions, but the G1023S was a popular version.
It should have a Shop Fox or Bessemer fence. (These cost around $250 new).

It should have 3 hp motor.

Depending on the condition, $500 is a reasonable price for a used G1023s.

For a used hybrid/cabinet table, $500 is probably the low end of what you will pay.
 

GaryMGg

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...on my ...cheap as dirt "skil" table saw. The only skill needed for this thing is holding it steady when it turns on. The initial torque makes it jump and slide two inches. Then you have to hold it still while you cut or the whole saw slowly rotates....

I wouldn't even give away a saw performing as you describe let alone use it.
Too dangerous. :eek:
Maybe you should remove the blade and consider using it for yard art. :biggrin:
 

Haynie

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...on my ...cheap as dirt "skil" table saw. The only skill needed for this thing is holding it steady when it turns on. The initial torque makes it jump and slide two inches. Then you have to hold it still while you cut or the whole saw slowly rotates....

I wouldn't even give away a saw performing as you describe let alone use it.
Too dangerous. :eek:
Maybe you should remove the blade and consider using it for yard art. :biggrin:

It is a dandy flat surface to fill up or glue up on for small projects. It is used only out of dire necessity, because, yes, it is freaking scary.

I just read that left/right tilt thing. Thanks for posting it. I thought all saws were the same and never gave this any thought.

It seems the biggest issue with the right tilt is trapping the piece against the fence. Correct me if I wrong but, at least for smallish pieces, a sled would solve this issue. I have never had the need to bevel anything really long. If I did though, why would switching the fence to the other side of the blade be an issue?
 
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Scruffy

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Most of the time

you can lower the blade and move the fence to the other side of the saw.
 

Haynie

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...on my ...cheap as dirt "skil" table saw. The only skill needed for this thing is holding it steady when it turns on. The initial torque makes it jump and slide two inches. Then you have to hold it still while you cut or the whole saw slowly rotates....

I wouldn't even give away a saw performing as you describe let alone use it.
Too dangerous. :eek:
Maybe you should remove the blade and consider using it for yard art. :biggrin:

It is a dandy flat surface to fill up or glue up on for small projects. It is used only out of dire necessity, because, yes, it is freaking scary.

What is up with the granite/steel tops. Which is the better idea?
 

PaulDoug

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Keep in mind that once you get a good table saw, it will be the most used tool you have. Worth spending some money. I worked on a Craftsman for around 30 years. It was good in it's day. When I got more into woodworking, I decided I need to spruce it up to get it more accurate. The fence and miter gauge were not very good. I bought a good Osborne miter gauge and a Mule Cabinetmaker fence and what a difference. Then after I retired, I went to work part time so I could buy more tools. First one was a cabinet saw. I would give up woodworking if I had to go back. Last month, I improved it, with a Incra miter gauge and fence. Oh, my, how sweet it is. Take your time and look for a good unisaw, you will never regret it. There are good used one to be had.
 
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Scruffy

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Granite vs Iron

Granite is flatter and heavier than cast iron, and is less prone to warp. It's also more brittle than cast iron….not fragile, but definitely more likely to sustain damage from a heavy blow. You also can't use magnetic attachments on granite. Another plus is that granite tops seem to universally have cabinet mounted trunnions vs table mounted. Most owner comments are favorable….many really love the granite tops. I don't think I'd be opposed to owning a granite top TS if the right deal came along, but I'd be more comfortable with cast iron because I'm more familiar with it. My wife thinks granite looks nicer, but at least for now, she hasn't gotten her way in my shop!
 

Monty

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I don't think my wife would let me get a granite top TS until she gets her granite kitchen counter tops. :biggrin::biggrin::biggrin::eek:
 
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