Stabilizing segmented blanks

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I would agree with Monty. However, during turning, you may want to consider a coat of CA at "appropriate" moments just to hold the puzzle together (actually, 5 seconds BEFORE those moments).

This had about 450 glue joints. I used CA fairly liberally.
 

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I would agree with Monty. However, during turning, you may want to consider a coat of CA at "appropriate" moments just to hold the puzzle together (actually, 5 seconds BEFORE those moments).

This had about 450 glue joints. I used CA fairly liberally.

That's pretty much what I do, was just wondering if stabilizing might be a way to tip the scales in my favor a bit. I don't have stabilizing equipment but I'm considering it.


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There are alternatives to stabilizing and if you are concerned about tipping the scales, do something along this line: wrap the segmented blank with a couple of layers of gauze and CA it. Put it on the lathe and turn one half of it down until round. If it is a delicate blank, wrap the just turned with a couple of rounds of gauze and CA it. Then turn the other half down to equal to the first half. This keeps it intact. If you think the blank is very delicate, do this gauze and CA a couple of times on both ends.

I have made a couple like this and my blowout prevention work might have been overkill, but at least I didn't have to look back and say, "I wish I had done . . ."
 
I agree with others to me it is a waste of time. Concentrate on either extra support with CA or as some do add outside wrapping, but to me though that too does nothing because you turn it off before you even touch the blank. At least CA has a chance to penetrate the material as you turn it. I also highly highly highly recommend a good quality epoxy to glue in tube. This gives added strength from the inside.
 
My concern would be with the reaction of the glues used, in between being submerged in CJ for hours and then be in an oven for 90 minutes at 90°C may totally destroy the adhesion of all the pieces...!

Cheers
George
 
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