Squaring ends Kaleidoscope

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Bope

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I am making some steampunk kaleidoscopes from pennstate. The ends need to be square to the hole so they can be turned in the kaleidoscope. The blanks are about 2"x2" square 3" long. The final blank only needs to be just under 2" long. I am using stabilized maple burl so nothing is square. Any ideas how to get the ends squared to the drilled hole?
 
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I am making some steampunk kaleidoscopes from pennstate. The ends need to be square to the hole so they can be turned in the kaleidoscope. The blanks are about 2"x2" square 3" long. The final blank only needs to be just under 2" long. I am using stabilized maple burl so nothing is square. Any ideas how to get the ends squared to the drilled hole?
Not sure quite how the blanks look or what means of cutting or machining you have...if you are able to flatten two sides on something like a sander and make them square to each other then you have some reference faces.Alternatively if you turned it into a parallel sided blank between centres you would also have a reference to square the ends with either a parting tool or sander,or if you a means of holding securely,a saw of some kind.
 

jrista

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I use a sanding disc with a pen squaring jig to square the ends of my pen blanks. Normally, you will cut the blank a bit longer than the tube, then drill and glue the tube in so that there is a bit of excess blank on other end of the tube. You then use the sanding disc with the jig to sand the ends down JUST to the point where the brass tube just touches the disk (any more, and you will shorten the tube, which can be problematic for many pen kits). Flip the blank around and sand down the other side, and voila, done.

 

magpens

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The kit referred to is detailed here:

I have not made this kit but I will tentatively "stick my neck out" and mention the method of end-squaring that I use for pen blanks.
From reading the instructions for this kit, it would seem that the end-squaring of the kaleidoscope blank is more critical than for a pen blank.

The kaleidoscope blank, after rounding, is larger in diameter than usual pen blanks, so my method may not be universally appropriate and depends on the lathe used.

For pen blanks, I square the ends as follows:
1. I mark the center points of both ends of the blank and I mount the blank between centers on my lathe.
2. I turn the pen blank to a cylindrical shape, with the diameter oversize but uniform to better than +/- 0.005".
3. I mount the cylindrical blank in the lathe headstock chuck jaws, carefully ensuring that its axis is coincident with the lathe axis.
4. I mount a cutting tool guide on the tool post accurately perpendicular to the lathe axis.
5. The cutting tool is held firmly against the cutting tool guide but can slide perpendicular to the lathe axis.
6. Material is removed from the end-face of the blank until that end-face is accurately flat (and perpendicular to the lathe axis).
7. Blank is turned end-for-end and the process is repeated for the other end.
 

dogcatcher

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I would make a 7/8" wood mandrel to fit the headstock. Place the drilled blank on the mandrel and then using a sanding disc in the tail stock square that end off, reverse and do same for the other end. Both ends will be square to the center hole. I woudl also turn the blank on the wood mandrel.
 

Bope

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The through hole is 45/64" so my typical pen squaring techniques don't work well. Also the final diameter is ~1-1/4". I have a Rigid oscillating belt/spindle sander. I tried flattening two sides. I could get then perpendicular to each other but I worried about length of the faces being parallel. I was thinking alone the lines of what dogcatcher suggested but I don't have a scroll chuck. I was hoping for one for Christmas but no luck. I really need one.
 

magpens

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@Bope

Please continue this topic as appropriate. . . I would like to hear how you deal with the end-squaring in a reliably accurate way. . I believe I understand the issues involved.
 

beck3906

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Drill a hole for a 7mm tube through a block approx 1.25 square and glue in the tube. Turn this round until it just slides into the kaleidoscope tube. Acrylic will be best for this as it isn't affected by humidity like wood
You should have a faceplate for your lathe. Cut a flat piece of stock, I use melamine covered particle board, and screw it to the face plate. Carefully found the edges so you have about 5 inch diameter. Attach a self stick sanding disk to the flat material. Hold a 7mm mandrel in a chuck in the tail stock and advance it to the face plate to sand.
 

dogcatcher

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The through hole is 45/64" so my typical pen squaring techniques don't work well. Also the final diameter is ~1-1/4". I have a Rigid oscillating belt/spindle sander. I tried flattening two sides. I could get then perpendicular to each other but I worried about length of the faces being parallel. I was thinking alone the lines of what dogcatcher suggested but I don't have a scroll chuck. I was hoping for one for Christmas but no luck. I really need one.
Then make a wood mandrel that will friction fit the inside of the hole. My same instructions will work whether hole is 1" or tapered from 1/2 to 3/4. If tapered or an odd one, you may need to create and expanding version using a pipe thead tapered plug.
 
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The through hole is 45/64" so my typical pen squaring techniques don't work well. Also the final diameter is ~1-1/4". I have a Rigid oscillating belt/spindle sander. I tried flattening two sides. I could get then perpendicular to each other but I worried about length of the faces being parallel. I was thinking alone the lines of what dogcatcher suggested but I don't have a scroll chuck. I was hoping for one for Christmas but no luck. I really need one.
if you have a sander does it have a miter gauge type thing and is the table square to the face of the sander?If your squared and flattened reference faces can be presented square in both axes to the sanding face then they should in theory be parallel.
Alternatively do as already suggested,turn blank between centres,turn it parallel and then use your sander if you can present the blank square to the sanding face.
Lots of other good suggestions here too.
The through hole is 45/64" so my typical pen squaring techniques don't work well. Also the final diameter is ~1-1/4". I have a Rigid oscillating belt/spindle sander. I tried flattening two sides. I could get then perpendicular to each other but I worried about length of the faces being parallel. I was thinking alone the lines of what dogcatcher suggested but I don't have a scroll chuck. I was hoping for one for Christmas but no luck. I really need one.
 

Bope

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The one I was making when I started this thread I had used a combination of a table saw and band saw to square the ends. They came out reasonably well. After turning I used a square and some sandpaper to get the ends a little more square. Once assembling I realized they incorporate quite a bit of slop to handle any variation in squareness of the ends. Of course the more square they are the less gap you need to leave. From this thread I also turned a wood mandrel to fit snuggly. This was good for finishing without the bushings. My dead center is not big enough to hold the piece alone between centers. I an not sure if it will hold well enough to do the actual turning.

The next 2 I flattened and squared up 2 sides on the belt sander. I then replaced the 1/4" blade with 1/2" blade on the bandsaw. One of the blanks squared up nicely but the other one was awful. I might try drilling the last one and putting it on my wood mandrel and try squaring the ends on the lathe. This will be my first time trying this method.
 
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