Cannonball
Member
What is the best speed to run the lathe while using the micro mesh pads
I don't bother to adjust the belt after final turning. After final turning, abranet at speed - 2400-3600; micromesh at the same speed. BUT, at this point you are not removing material, just removing scratches and polishing.
I do not use a lot of pressure, let the pads do their work on the scratches. I use water liberally, wipe of the slurry, next grit.
So, 2400-3600, whatever last turning speed I was at.
I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
I use a CA finish but I have never had this problem, and I wet sand with MM on everything. I think the key is after I sand the excess CA off the barrel ends, I'll douse a small piece of paper towel with thin CA and rub the barrel ends on the CA soaked paper towel. This ensures you can get your MM pads nice and wet without the excess water soaking into the wood.I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
Not for me. You are polishing the CA finish. Have to make sure to seal the ends. That is the key. We are not talking drowning the blank either. I just keep the pads in water and take out for use.
I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
Not for me. You are polishing the CA finish. Have to make sure to seal the ends. That is the key. We are not talking drowning the blank either. I just keep the pads in water and take out for use.
What about if you are turning a cross cut blank? Would not the water seep in just as CA does on the ends of a straight grained blank?
I mm at my last turning speed, using a very light touch, and only for a couple of passes before moving on to the next pad. I dry mm wood and wet mm acrylics, aluminite,etc. Question for those who wet mm all the time: does that not introduce moisture to a wood blank, thereby increasing the risk of a cloudy CA finish (assuming you use a CA finish)?
Not for me. You are polishing the CA finish. Have to make sure to seal the ends. That is the key. We are not talking drowning the blank either. I just keep the pads in water and take out for use.
Ah, I see. You wet MM after you've applied the CA finish. I do the same. Before applying the finish I dry MM through 12,000 and then clean with acetone. Maybe a little overkill, but I use it as a selling point.
I will concede to your friction polish thing. I never done one.We've strayed a bit off topic here. Concede your point about stopping at 600 grit for a CA finish. For wood 7mm pens I always apply a friction polish (Pens Plus for example). When doing those I think it necessary to dry mm to 12000 before applying the polish.As an aside, I've started using Odie's Oil as a friction polish. My results on that are subjects for another thread.