spalted beech hollow form

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Joined
Apr 16, 2010
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699
Location
Leicestershire, U.K
hello folks
This beech log had been spalting for about 2 years- i checked it 6 months ago and there was hardly any zonal lines and i thought it was not going to happen and it was destined to be firewood but I cut into it yesterday and discoverd some of the best spalting i've seen for a while.

this form measures 7" wide by 6.5" tall with a 3/4" hollowing hole

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Gary Max

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Joined
Oct 30, 2004
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6,224
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Southern Kentucky
3/4 hollowing hole-----Dang your killing me----what's that tool look like???
I have about 20 more pens to make then I am going to clean the dust off my big lathe.
Time to give pens a rest anyhow.
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
699
Location
Leicestershire, U.K
Thank you

Gary:I use a mixture of home made tools-similar to David ellsworths style, the mini munroe tool and melvyn firmager's two prong tools. 3/4" is a nice size once your used to it, I also do 5/8" and 1/2" on similar size forms-its just depends on the shape

John: there's not allot to see really- the form takes shape very quickly then you might aswell close your eyes as there's nothing to see for about an hour whilst i hollow it out- then its just sanding and the parting of left to do
 

louisbry

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Joined
Mar 18, 2007
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2,655
Location
Tullahoma, TN, USA.
George, you have outdone yourself. What a beautiful piece of wood and finished hollow form. I really enjoy seeing your work, it is so artistic.
It looks like you left the pith in your blank. I can not see the bottom, so I am wondering if you had to do any thing to prevent cracking or if the spalting releaves the timber stresses sufficient to prevent cracking. Also your hollowing tools must be 1/2 in in diameter or less. That must be fun cutting 6 inches from the tool rest.
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
699
Location
Leicestershire, U.K
Thank you

Louis: You are correct the pith is in this piece- I normally buy my logs in 22,24 or 26" diameters and i get a form this size from each side of the pith- which will reduce if not eliminate all cracking problems, but these logs were given to me by my brother and were much smaller than I prefer- so what I do is cut one pith out thru the entrance hole then I either cut the base one out and plug it once dry or drip thin ca into the base pith from both sides (if that makes sense) On will use the same method on a pallet full of yew I have waiting to be turned which is also in these smaller sizes.
most of my tools are 1/2" - with practice I can go to about 9" deep with them but I don't recommend going straight for this depth it takes a little while to get used to ( I have been hollow turning for about 12 years now) a long handle also helps- mine are all about 30" long
best wish's
george
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2010
Messages
699
Location
Leicestershire, U.K
Thank you

Louis: I measure inside the form and part of the piece- i learnt how to do it this way as when i first had the vb36 i had no tailstock,now i do have a tailstock but still prefer to not reverse my hollow forms.
 
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