Should I sand?

[mick]

This is a bloodwood modified slimline pencil with a tiny sliver of ebony. Turned entirely with a skew. I like turning woods when you can get a finish like this with just a skew. But of course I'll sand it, that was a catchy title though. When it's that smooth I can sand with 600 and 800 grit and go straight to my CA finish. I've got a matching one tube pen ready to turn for the set.

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[mick]

This is a bloodwood modified slimline pencil with a tiny sliver of ebony. Turned entirely with a skew. I like turning woods when you can get a finish like this with just a skew. But of course I'll sand it, that was a catchy title though. When it's that smooth I can sand with 600 and 800 grit and go straight to my CA finish. I've got a matching one tube pen ready to turn for the set.

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I forgot the picture!

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[jttheclockman]

My question is why sand. What will that do?? Not being rhetorical but I never sand when turned down with a skew. Does not get better than that. You will not see or feel the difference when Ca is applied. Just my opinion

 

[sorcerertd]

To sand or not to sand? That is not the question. Well not mine anyway.

I'd actually like to know what you did with the modification. Is that just as simple as cutting a single tube to the right length? I think my 7mm fisch bit would go that deep. I don't work with pencils a lot, so never gave much thought modding one yet. I guess a pencil doesn't need to twist, so... hmm, I do have a trimline pencil kit sitting on the bench.

 

[leehljp]

As John asked: "Why Sand?" Old hand made antiques from a couple of hundred years ago used scrapers and not sand paper. Many are worth small fortunes. The right tool and skill of the user can produce different levels of smoothness on wood to the extent that sandpaper is not needed. And Yes, one can make the wood smoother with the tool in some situations than 600-800 SP can.

There are several segmenting types that sanding only smears wood of one color onto another, or brass onto wood. A good skew or scraper will clean the segments while SP smears it.

 

[mick]

My question is why sand. What will that do?? Not being rhetorical but I never sand when turned down with a skew. Does not get better than that. You will not see or feel the difference when Ca is applied. Just my opinion

The nib's still a little proud of the bushings. I thought I'd sneak up on the diameter with a touch if sanding.

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[mick]

To sand or not to sand? That is not the question. Well not mine anyway.

I'd actually like to know what you did with the modification. Is that just as simple as cutting a single tube to the right length? I think my 7mm fisch bit would go that deep. I don't work with pencils a lot, so never gave much thought modding one yet. I guess a pencil doesn't need to twist, so... hmm, I do have a trimline pencil kit sitting on the bench.

For pencils I keep a supply 10" 7mm tubes. You can either cut that down or if you don't have any press the coupler between the two tubes supplied with the kit. Grind or turn it down to the diameter of the tubes. Glue in and you're good to go. Length is critical with the pencil so if you're cutting a longer tube down be sure it's the same length as the tubes plus the coupler.
Good luck!

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[mick]

As John asked: "Why Sand?" Old hand made antiques from a couple of hundred years ago used scrapers and not sand paper. Many are worth small fortunes. The right tool and skill of the user can produce different levels of smoothness on wood to the extent that sandpaper is not needed. And Yes, one can make the wood smoother with the tool in some situations than 600-800 SP can.

There are several segmenting types that sanding only smears wood of one color onto another, or brass onto wood. A good skew or scraper will clean the segments while SP smears it.

Lee it's just me but sometimes with certain woods I feel that the final passes of the skew almost burnishs the surface so I'll sand at say 600 to give a little tooth to hold the finish. I've had the finish actually come off oilier woods even after cleaning with mineral spirits. I realize this isn't empirical data but just experiences I've had.

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[KenB259]

I sand very little these days. Still do sometimes but really depends on the blank. As Lee said some segmented blanks utilizing different woods cannot be sanded. For example if you come near a blank that has both holly and bloodwood in it, you'll ruin it. You'll also ruin it it you touch it with any kind of solvent. It's a no brainer that sanding creates fine sawdust. You have to get rid of that before finishing. Even more important if the wood has small fissures like padauk or wenge. Those woods you're better off with just a skew. I've been slowly transitioning to just carbide tools. You can do a shear cut with carbide tool that is so close to a skew cut, most can't even distinguish between the two. There's also a chisel called a spindlemaster that can do an amazing job. Yes I can use a skew, but I just wanted emphasize that there are alternatives. Sanding has its place as well. There is no " one size fits all". Just experiment and have fun. Will you have failures? Most certainly. Will you have success's ? Yes you will[emoji3]


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[jttheclockman]

The nib's still a little proud of the bushings. I thought I'd sneak up on the diameter with a touch if sanding.

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If you feel the need to sand then go for it. But you asked so I said no to sanding. A finely honed skew is the best tool in the tool box and you can sneak up on any dimension easily. Just what I do now adays. As mentioned segmenting lends itself to alot of skew work because of cross contamination of woods that you would get if sanded and then there is no fix.

 

[leehljp]

Lee it's just me but sometimes with certain woods I feel that the final passes of the skew almost burnishs the surface so I'll sand at say 600 to give a little tooth to hold the finish. I've had the finish actually come off oilier woods even after cleaning with mineral spirits. I realize this isn't empirical data but just experiences I've had.
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If it works, use it!

For me, I haven't had a problem getting CA to stick to slick glass, and house paint too for that matter. Why does stuff often stick to what we don't want it to, but doesn't stick to what we want it to stick to!

 

[mick]

If it works, use it!

For me, I haven't had a problem getting CA to stick to slick glass, and house paint too for that matter. Why does stuff often stick to what we don't want it to, but doesn't stick to what we want it to stick to! [emoji849]

That is one of those mysteries of the universe, like when my Bermuda grass runs into the flower beds but three feet away won't fill in an area less than a foot across!

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