Extra Slimline Bushings:
I always recommend that beginners buy extra Slimline bushings. They are cheap. In addition to using them as bushings for pens in the Slimline family, I also use them as spacers. Sometimes it helps to move the pen blank one slimline bushing away from the headstock or tailstock. You will definitely need the Slimline bushing spacers if you use the pen mandrel with the round gold knurled nut on the end. (I prefer a live "mandrel saver" instead of the knurled nut.) Slimline bushings are small, and tend to get lost in the sawdust or sucked into the shop vac. It doesn't hurt to have a few extras for that reason, too.
Pen Assembly Tools:
I tried my drill press first (total failure, not recommended). I have used many different types of pen press. They all work fine and I recommend them for those who want a separate assembly tool, which I don't. Instead, I use small, simple plastic pen assembly adapters on my lathe. I store them under the lathe bed in a small basket with the spur drives and live centers, where they are always convenient. They work great:
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/lathe-pen-press-adapters-2-mt
(Hint: One of the two pieces has a hole that seems ideal for centering and pressing pen tips. The hole can leave dents in the pen tip if you press too hard, so I prefer to use the end without the hole to press in pen tips. It works perfectly.)
Not Asked - Non-Stick Pen Bushings:
If you are not careful during woodturning or sanding, your tool or sandpaper can contact the bushings and abrade some of the metal off. That's especially true if your sandpaper touches the metal bushing. The result can be darkened ends on your pen blanks, as the fine metal dust is irretrievably embedded in the wood and then covered with finish. Furthermore, it reduces the size of the bushings, so they are no longer accurate.
When I am ready to sand my pen blank(s), I stop the lathe and replace the metal bushings with the non-stick cone-shaped plastic ones. This lets you sand the entire blank without worrying about sanding metal dust from the bushings and getting it on your pen blanks. The problem is that you must be very careful to avoid letting the sandpaper get beyond the edge of the pen blank. Do not allow the sandpaper to round over the end of the pen blank, especially considering how much work you invested to match it to the bushing.
The non-stick pen bushings are great for CA finishes, too. The metal bushings can be a pain to remove if the CA finish grabs them. Some people make their own from plastic rods, turning them to shape on the lathe. Here are examples where you can buy them:
https://www.rockler.com/non-stick-pen-bushings-for-ca-finish
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/hold-fast-non-stick-bushings-for-ca-pen-finishing
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=non-stick+pen+bushings&dc&ref=a9_asc_1
). Avoid hitting the bushings and they will last a long time. I would suggest having extra tubes on hand just in case. If you think the first pen was expensive, just wait until you find stabilizing, casting, kitless, and on and on. Enjoy.
