Segment press

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Rtibbs

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Sep 28, 2018
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I modified the Rockler drill jig to use as a press when gluing pen segments by adding a carriage to the framework. As soon as I find my sheet of sticky back Teflon I'll line the carriage with it to prevent the glue from sticking to it.


After cutting the segments I adhere them (Double faced tape) to a carrier and run them through my Byrnes thickness sander to smooth the surface then flip them over and run them through again. One of the nice things about the sander you can run two 3" wide sanding drums on the unit. One coarse and one fine grit side by side or one 6" wide drum with one grit.
 

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mark james

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Sweet method for running the segments through the Sander (which I have). If you don't mind, what tape/carrier are you using?

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
 

Rtibbs

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Sweet method for running the segments through the Sander (which I have). If you don't mind, what tape/carrier are you using?

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
I first used a double faced tape I purchased at Woodcraft however, there were times which a couple of pieces came loose. I’m now using a tape which I believe is sold as a carpet tape. It has a thin woven filament and, so far, I’ve had no issues. :eek: I think the key is to make sure your pieces are clean of any dust particles.

The carrier is just a piece of 1/4” wood.

Ron
 
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mark james

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Looking back at your last two pictures, I'll suggest sanding down strips (1" wide by 4-6" long by whatever starting thickness you are beginning with) to final dimensions, THEN drill the holes and cut into the squares. This would avoid needing to sand down individual squares.

However, if these are starting as squares (e.g., corian, etc), then consider this to avoid "shooting segments.

When I use my Byrnes' sander, I use several different push tools/strips - 1-1.5" wide by 6" long by slightly thinner than the final thickness I am aiming for.

Maybe adding a final thin "push strip" after your final segments will give some support to avoid any fireworks. I would NOT attach this to the tape as you simply want the segments to go clear through, not necessarily the push strip. And I would want it to be as wide as the material getting pushed through.

I will admit to having numerous segments decide to reverse directions in a hurry - a learning curve for sure. Just be safe.

Just a random thought.
 

leehljp

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I just saw this too. I like Ron's method, which is safer than mine. I made mine with a home made table saw with sliding table. It scared me with the blade but I watched my fingers with every movement. I have a couple of other photos somewhere that show a clamping hold down, a blade cover that were added on later. Also I made that jig that can adjust a cut by less than 1/100 inch. The blades are specialty blades that I purchased when I was in Japan that had 1mm carbide kerf. 120mm blades 40 or 60 teeth. Bought several. I am very frugal with them. :)

Like you, I drill my holes in large pieces and then cut them. You can see the bloodwood, holly and olive wood, along with brass rings cut out.



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jttheclockman

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Feb 22, 2005
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NJ, USA.
Sweet method for running the segments through the Sander (which I have). If you don't mind, what tape/carrier are you using?

Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
I first used a double faced tape I purchased at Woodcraft however, there were times which a couple of pieces came loose. I’m now using a tape which I believe is sold as a carpet tape. It has a thin woven filament and, so far, I’ve had no issues. :eek: I think the key is to make sure your pieces are clean of any dust particles.

The carrier is just a piece of 1/4” wood.

Ron
I use that nylon tape which I believe is outdoor double stick tape for things that I need to positively stay put because it is a bear to get off if left for any time length. I use turners double stick tape and buy from Peach Tree USA but Woodcraft may also sell it. I use that stuff for everything and never had any let goes. I suggest you use a scrap piece in front of your squares and also behind so you do not get snipe and the small pieces could lift up and launch. I do this all the time on my larger drum sander so I believe those will do the same thing. Nice work.:):)
 
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