Sanding Dry Wall

[WriteON]

Not sure if I asked before. I'd like to power sand a dry wall I'm working on. Thinking about buying an orbital sander. Too much to hand sand. Comments or suggestions for power sanding dry wall & mud. Would buy a sander that connects to a dust extractor.

 

[Curly]

I power sanded once upon a time without it having it hooked up to an extractor/vacuum. Never ever again!!! Makes a huge mess that goes everywhere. I would rent one with the proper extractor if I was ever going to do it again.

I've learned how to apply it with progressively wider trowels and minimal sanding between applications if any with a swivel pole sander and mesh abrasive. I'd likely sand holes in the sheets if I used power drywall sander.

 

[chartle]

What kind of orbital sander? One for wood or one for drywall. One for wood would probably just make a mess of it.

So are you buying something like this?

 

[Woodchipper]

I sanded a 14x16 ceiling with a Dewalt orbital sander hooked to a Shop Vac. Wasn't in any hurry.

 

[chartle]

I sanded a 14x16 ceiling with a Dewalt orbital sander hooked to a Shop Vac. Wasn't in any hurry.

I would think it would tend to gouge the compound using a smaller disk. I used a porter cable 12in drywall sander and it glides over the surface.

Though I did use a 1/3 sheet pad sander once but it was to knock down some Durarock compound it was before I could easily get Easy Sand hardening compound. It was a ceiling and I really messed it up.

 

[Lucky2]

Any drywall work that I've done, was put n in such an order that it required no sanding. And if it did, it was because I couldn't get a good reach into the area. And in most of those locations, I still didn't do any sanding. The best way to remove excess drywall mud that has dried, is to use a wet cloth. That is the only way that I remove any excess mud, because removing the mud with a wet cloth makes no dust. So, there's less clean-up when finished. And if it's the final coating of mud, your're finished and ready to paint when done. Where as with sanding, you still have cleaning up to do. You can use an orbital sander, but you'll have one heck of a mess when done. You can purchase a sander that hooks up to a shop-vac, it's light and it does do a fairly good job. The shop-vac hose just pushes into the back end of the sander, they are not very expensive, and there's little to no dust to clean-up when finished sanding.Good luck.


Len

 

[eharri446]

Just make sure that you use a vacuum bag in your shop vac that is made for drywall dust. Otherwise you may ruin your shop vac motor.

 

[jttheclockman]

Waste of time and money hands down and my suggestion is get better at applying if you insist on doing it yourself, or hire someone. You can rent those wall sanders but it needs to come with a heppa filter on the vac designed to vac that fine of dust. I have sheet rocked many rooms in my house, my Dads house and will be doing some again the next couple years as I continue to upgrade my home. I have learned the proper way to apply compound that leaves very little sanding and anyone says that no sanding is needed is not being honest. Even the pros sand before painting. Just have to. But if done well little sanding is needed. I always use a sanding pole pad on a swivel stick with fine mesh sandpaper. Small areas I will use a fine grit sanding sponge.

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But to use an orbital wood sander is asking for trouble and much more clean up afterwards. The other key is to clean floor after sanding so you do not track it around and again tarps make things easy today.

 

[Lucky2]

So John, you think that I'm being dishonest with what I posted?? That's fine, you go about doing things the way you like, and I'll do things the way I like. But, I do not see any good coming out of you calling a person dishonest. What I posted is true, it is the way that I do any drywall work. I apply the mud carefully and lightly, and then when it dries I do no sanding. I use warm water and a soft cloth, and when done doing the wiping back the extra mud, the wall is ready to apply the primer. I learned how to do it this way by a professional drywall person Now you can believe that or not, it makes no difference to me. But, there's nothing dishonest about what I posted. And, I don't appreciate the insinuation that there is or was....

Len

 

[leehljp]

Waste of time and money hands down and my suggestion is get better at applying if you insist on doing it yourself, or hire someone.

JT, that was going to be my suggestion - In a slightly different way - when I finished reading everyone's reply, but then I saw yours and laughed!

MY suggestion was going to be: Go ahead and sand, then clean up the dust, then you will be motivated to use less the next time! But for ME - I was a very SLOW learner. I didn't even learn after promising myself the first time; I just repeated the mess the second time. Then I went on a "build" with a Disaster Relief crew - not only to help, but to watch how to do sheet rock mudding with less but still enough. I'm still not professional, but I don't make as much dust as I used to.

I bought a 6 inch ROS and Fein Turbo II some years ago to do wall work on my house and they do good on the walls. I haven't attacked the ceilings though. I admire anyone who does ceilings, no matter how it looks!

 

[Woodchipper]

Hmmm. Many ways to skin a cat(fish).

 

[jttheclockman]

So John, you think that I'm being dishonest with what I posted?? That's fine, you go about doing things the way you like, and I'll do things the way I like. But, I do not see any good coming out of you calling a person dishonest. What I posted is true, it is the way that I do any drywall work. I apply the mud carefully and lightly, and then when it dries I do no sanding. I use warm water and a soft cloth, and when done doing the wiping back the extra mud, the wall is ready to apply the primer. I learned how to do it this way by a professional drywall person Now you can believe that or not, it makes no difference to me. But, there's nothing dishonest about what I posted. And, I don't appreciate the insinuation that there is or was....

Len

Len I wish you the very best but I stand by my statement in my mind you have your opinion and that is mine. I am in the construction business for over 43 years and have seen much. You wet sanding is just another way to sand as is wet sanding a pen blank or dry sanding. Using MM with water or without. If you think I am calling you out you are mistaken.

 

[DrD]

If this is not a one time deal, look at Festool. Any of their sanders from the dedicated dry wall unit to the 6" and 5" random orbital sanders connected to one of their Dust Extractors (all but the least expensive are HEPA) will leave no visible dust; I know this from experience. They are spendy - a good dust extractor is upwards of $750, additional anti-static 10' hoses upwards of $130, and a 6" RO sander $300 to over $600. Dedicated drywall sanding systems begin at about $1800.

 

[Displaced Canadian]

It's better to do an extra coat of mud than to do a lot of sanding. The Festool dust extractor with their sanders seems to be the only system that works to control the dust. Be careful with orbital sanders, it's easy to gouge the walls and they can remove a lot of materiel in a hurry. When we do drywall it's not expected that you will do any sanding between the first and second coat. Pay attention to installing the drywall, it's easier to shim it than smooth it out with mud. You need to thin the mud when you get it, add about 1/2 a quart of water and mix well. Good luck with your project.

 

[chartle]

I stumbled upon this guy just as I needed to drywall a bathroom after not really doing it for 10 years. Yes it says Carpenter but somehow he he also does a ton of drywall/plaster work. Enough that he makes jokes about it.

Vancouver Carpenter

www.youtube.com

 

[WriteON]

I would hand sand but my shoulders are fubar. I tried the HYDE with a sanding screen. Had to quit. The area is approx 1'w x 12'h. I can apply joint compound fairly even.This is a one time deal. I might buy/try the Dewalt cordless orbital. If it does not work out I can use it for other things. Whatever I get will be used with a Festool Midi (that I should have bought years ago).

I would hire a painter however I'm in Florida and:
They do not show up
Do not return calls
Start time (9am) is 11 to them
Way over priced. I have the face of a dumb, stupid old senior citizen that says take advantage of me.
Don't need a stranger in our kitchen all day
Don't need a person with a substandard or no dust collector... Been there with a bathroom overhaul.
Not in the mood for a Cash Deal
Don't need a Handyman's leaky truck in driveway.
Occasional language barrier
I'M SICK AND TIRED OF DEALING WITH STRANGERS...... the less I deal with people the better. Especially roofers and gutter experts with a $300-$500 minimum.
Recourse is a dirty word to most around here.

Aside from all of this I'm a happy camper that enjoys the thrill of DIY. My motto is ... If I can do it...I'm doin it. There 3 things I never touch.... Gas lines, electrical and car brakes.

 

[DrD]

Given your last post, I definitely recommend Festool and DIY. Their Dust Extractors are absolutely top drawer. Over the years I have accumulated a number of shop vacuums, and none compare to my CT26. When it comes to sanding, I have 5 different Festool sanders that meet my needs - except for pens of course. Their tools are worth the investment!

 

[WriteON]

Given your last post, I definitely recommend Festool and DIY. Their Dust Extractors are absolutely top drawer. Over the years I have accumulated a number of shop vacuums, and none compare to my CT26. When it comes to sanding, I have 5 different Festool sanders that meet my needs - except for pens of course. Their tools are worth the investment!

Please tell me about your Festool sanders. I'd buy a cordless. It'll go along with the Blue Tooth Midi set up. Is oscillating better than orbital for dry wall. I'm open for suggestions.

 

[DrD]

Dual Mode RO series sanders come in 3 different sizes, I have the RO150 &125, the ETS 150/3 a random orbit finishing sander, the RAS 115 which is more like a grinder, and the half sheet RS 2E. I have used all but the RAS on wall board. All are corded. My thoughts about corded: as long as you have the vac tube attached, the cord is no issue (tied together with Velcro strips), and since I have a respiratory problem, I generally DO NOT sand without dust extraction. As an aside virtually every other power tool in my shop is Festool - all connected to a CT26 - chop saw, track saw, routers, jig saw, planer, domino. Exceptions: lathes, band saws, and the like.

 

[jttheclockman]

One thing you are forgetting. Or two things. You say your shoulders are gone but you can apply the compound. You still will have a mess. Then you need to be able to hold the sander above your head or shoulders too and with the vibration and the motion of a sander wanting to walk all over the place when the sandpaper grabs can be tiring. Just things to consider. I wish you luck as you take on this project. The Hyde pole sander is my recommendation and deal with the mess. If you do a good job with applying the compound, the dust will be minimal especially that small of a wall. Not sure what type seams or corners you are looking at but tapering the compound is key and really is not hard when you get the feel of the knifes. The golden rule of wallboard work, put it on, take it off and walk away. The more you play with it to make it perfect, the more of a mess you have.

 

[monophoto]

If you do a good job with applying the compound, the dust will be minimal especially that small of a wall. Not sure what type seams or corners you are looking at but tapering the compound is key and really is not hard when you get the feel of the knifes. The golden rule of wallboard work, put it on, take it off and walk away. The more you play with it to make it perfect, the more of a mess you have.

Agree fully with John - the objective should be to minimize the amount of sanding you have to do.

But one other point - in my experience, in dry wall work, wet sanding is better than dry sanding. Wet sanding is done with a sponge rather than sandpaper - preferably a cellulose sponge rather than a plastic sponge. Soak the sponge in a pail of water, squeeze out most of the water, and then wipe the seam. The advantage of wet sanding is that the sponge picks up some of the joint compound, and reapplies it to fill any small scratches in the surface. So if you start out with a relatively good seam, wet sanding will leave it far smoother than dry sanding - and you won't have to deal with all that dust in the air.

But one caution - if you have a grinder pump (macerator) in your sewage system, DON'T DISPOSE OF THE WATER FROM WET SANDING VIA THE SEWER - the sludge from wet sanding can greatly shorten the life of a grinder pump (an expensive lesson my neighbor learned the hard way).

 

[WriteON]

Im good with applying mud. Might change my screen name to Smooth Operator. I'm like you guys. I fix things... hack and schlock are not in my vocabulary.

 

[jttheclockman]

Agree fully with John - the objective should be to minimize the amount of sanding you have to do.

But one other point - in my experience, in dry wall work, wet sanding is better than dry sanding. Wet sanding is done with a sponge rather than sandpaper - preferably a cellulose sponge rather than a plastic sponge. Soak the sponge in a pail of water, squeeze out most of the water, and then wipe the seam. The advantage of wet sanding is that the sponge picks up some of the joint compound, and reapplies it to fill any small scratches in the surface. So if you start out with a relatively good seam, wet sanding will leave it far smoother than dry sanding - and you won't have to deal with all that dust in the air.

But one caution - if you have a grinder pump (macerator) in your sewage system, DON'T DISPOSE OF THE WATER FROM WET SANDING VIA THE SEWER - the sludge from wet sanding can greatly shorten the life of a grinder pump (an expensive lesson my neighbor learned the hard way).

Yes wet sanding is another way to go but again requires a good touch and eye. I also agree with the disposal of water. Do not flush it down a drain either. It can get stuck in crevices and become hard as a rock over time.

 

[WriteON]

Yes wet sanding is another way to go but again requires a good touch and eye. I also agree with the disposal of water. Do not flush it down a drain either. It can get stuck in crevices and become hard as a rock over time.

I don't flush anything.... especially rice and pasta at Thanksgiving.
BTW...I'm enjoying the conversations here. Comparing notes works for me. You guys have my respect.

 

[magpens]

Beware if using a circular disc sander - easy to gouge the wall.

Vibratory rectangular pad sander is much easier to use and less risky.

 

[WriteON]

News flash. I have a DeWalt palm sander with Dust collector hook up. Forgot I had it. Might use a sanding screen or 220 paper. Here's the project. Not a lot of filling.... mostly sanding. Had water run down wall. Wall is dry.... not powdery.

 

[jttheclockman]

My goodness, want to buy all that expensive equipment for that. That is a 10minute job. I wish all my drywall jobs were that easy. That sander will not catch that dust. It will some and just clean up the rest. I voiced my opinion as to what to use and stick with it even more so seeing that. Good luck. See you have some overhead work too. If that is just painting, make sure you use a stain killer. I like Kiltz.

 

[WriteON]

My goodness, want to buy all that expensive equipment for that. That is a 10minute job. I wish all my drywall jobs were that easy. That sander will not catch that dust. It will some and just clean up the rest. I voiced my opinion as to what to use and stick with it even more so seeing that. Good luck. See you have some overhead work too. If that is just painting, make sure you use a stain killer. I like Kiltz.

11minute job at my age. I move like snail with airbrakes. The paint is thick and has a edge that needs to blend in. Also blistered and needs to come off in some areas. Looks simple but looks can kill. The sander takes 8 hole paper and has provisions for a vac. Why will it not catch dust? That's in the plan. The ceiling needs some minor work also. It has the knockdown finish. Whoever designed that finish should be hung by their ????'s. Come over and help out...donuts and coffee are on me if we can cut the job down to 9 minutes.....otherwise bring your own.

 

[jttheclockman]

11minute job at my age. I move like snail with airbrakes. The paint is thick and has a edge that needs to blend in. Also blistered and needs to come off in some areas. Looks simple but looks can kill. The sander takes 8 hole paper and has provisions for a vac. Why will it not catch dust? That's in the plan. The ceiling needs some minor work also. It has the knockdown finish. Whoever designed that finish should be hung by their ????'s. Come over and help out...donuts and coffee are on me if we can cut the job down to 9 minutes.....otherwise bring your own.

The reason those sanders are not that efficient is because they rely on those holes in the pad and paper and you need to have those lined up pretty well and it does not have a shroud around the edges of the sander to contain the dust within. The bag is so small to capture dust. You may have a better chance with a vac attached but I would not bet on it. Good luck with the project. I would knock off all loose stuff and then hit with a nice smooth finish coat or two. A proper blade would get this done easily. Use the blue lid compound. Will sand easier and is light weight. (Home Depot, pre mixed)

 

[WriteON]

The reason those sanders are not that efficient is because they rely on those holes in the pad and paper and you need to have those lined up pretty well and it does not have a shroud around the edges of the sander to contain the dust within. The bag is so small to capture dust. You may have a better chance with a vac attached but I would not bet on it. Good luck with the project. I would knock off all loose stuff and then hit with a nice smooth finish coat or two. A proper blade would get this done easily. Use the blue lid compound. Will sand easier and is light weight. (Home Depot, pre mixed)

Sander update. Total waste. Too loud. Too much vibration. I'd recommend it for a small piece of balsa. Goes back on the shelf for 10 years

 

[WriteON]

Drywall sanding is not the concern. It's trying to blend the paint line to the exposed drywall. The wall has been painted multiple times and is thick. Think I'll use a heavy grit to even out the paint edge/line....will apply a thin spread joint compound and go from there. Looks like a bit of hand sanding and taking my time. Does not have to finished in one day. As for hand sanding blocks. The Hyde is junk but upscale junk. The hose is a real POS. I keep looking at the Festool hand sander. Buy the time I select the sandpaper the clocks will Spring forward. If you ever looked at Festool sandpaper choices you'll find it's easier to sell the house than to buy from their website. And at $39 for 50 sheets I'm speechless.

 

[WriteON]

I bought the Festool hand sander and granat paper. Should have done this first.