Salvageable??

Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
M

MPVic

Member
Joined
Dec 23, 2011
Messages
649
Location
Hamilton, ON, Canada
First of all, thanks to Fred Bruche who gave me this blank in a BOB award for contest "losers".
The kit is a round top European. After cutting the 5" blank to appropriate lengths I used a scratch awl to put a dimple in each end for drilling - won't be doing that again! And of course I hit it too hard causing a nasty split - thought I could recover it by gluing up with epoxy. You can see in the photo that this is NOT going well. :confused: Any suggestions on salvaging this, or should I just put it in my scrap box & chalk it up to learning? It is fitted with 7 mm brass tubes.
Would appreciate any & all suggestions/comments.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0975.JPG
    IMG_0975.JPG
    183.3 KB · Views: 225
  • IMG_0974.JPG
    IMG_0974.JPG
    144 KB · Views: 238
Signed-In Members Don't See This Ad
You could salvage by cutting off the "bad" end and replacing with a black (or red ?) "oops" band.
Black would be my personal preference, and I think it would look OK at either the nib end or the finial end, but probably not at the center.

I also use a scratch awl but I never hit it with the hammer. . I just use manual pressure to create the dimple, and then use a battery operated drill to enlarge the dimple.
 
The thin CA is worth a try. Then use Mal's option as plan B. You still have a lot of meat on the blank to make a band look great.
 
With most blanks, if you're using a drill press, You shouldn't even have to dimple the end. Just get it squared up and drill. Even with a crooked hole, there's usually still a lot of meat on the blank to turn for a pen.
 
Why does no one use a slocombe drill to start it off? You might call it a machinists centre drill over there? Easier than dimpling and runs true as no flex in the drill.
 
Larryreitz said:
I'll second what Mal said.
Click to expand...
I'll third what Mal said if you can't hide that crack under a clip. Stubby machinist centering drill is the tool but you shouldn't need it. I'd keep hammers at least as far away from pen blanks as I'd keep knives away from my private parts. That's why I stopped using barrel trimmers years ago.
 
Last edited:
howsitwork said:
Why does no one use a slocombe drill to start it off? You might call it a machinists centre drill over there? Easier than dimpling and runs true as no flex in the drill.
Click to expand...

I always use a stubby centering bit. I consider this one of my most important tools in getting the hole drilled straight. Straight centered holes is a must in most segmented designs. Since getting the centering bit, I never have crooked holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
 
KenB259 said:
I always use a stubby centering bit. I consider this one of my most important tools in getting the hole drilled straight. Straight centered holes is a must in most segmented designs. Since getting the centering bit, I never have crooked holes.


Sent from my iPhone using Penturners.org mobile app
Click to expand...
It also requires a gentle touch. For me, especially with segmenting, the issue is making sure it is square at every step. Then the center that you mark on the blank is the center of the segment and the blank when whatever it's clamped in it also square to the bit. Little variances add up. Bits for blanks are usually stout enough not to wander as long as there's some point on it.
 
magpens said:
You could salvage by cutting off the "bad" end and replacing with a black (or red ?) "oops" band.
Black would be my personal preference, and I think it would look OK at either the nib end or the finial end, but probably not at the center.
Click to expand...
Black band.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom