Questions specific to buffing.....

[RogerGarrett]

Hi all,

I'm finally through several pens that have different finishes.

Spray Lacquer Finish Only - sanding through 600 and 1000 grits and lacquering (spray gun with compressor) - two coats with sponge sand between. Results - very good and durable. Negative - takes time between coats and ties up the peg board.

CA/Lacquer combo - Sanding through 600 and 100, applying two coats of thin CA with sanding and DA between coats - up to 1000 grit. 2 coats of thick CA with sanding and DA between coats - finish of 2500 grit. Finish with one coat of sprayed lacquer (gun and compressor). Results - a thicker, harder finish - but the same appearance as the apray lacquer only. [|)]

I've ordered micro mesh, sanding sealer (which appears to be, in most cases, a lacquer product....not sure why this step is needed), plastic polish (is this really different than auto rubbing compounds and the fine rubbing compounds available from McGuire's?), and lots of CA Glue.

I've read four or five different finishing techniques - Fangar's as well as several online from PDF files at the various vendors for pen making products. I have been deducing from the vast information available that when using only CA to finish - it appears the buffing system is required - that this is the important way to get the most perfect, glossy appearance from the CA finish. Or - can you use your lathe without the buffing wheels and whtie diamond, etc. to achieve the same gloss?

If the buffing system is required - I'm going to kick myself for selling the Jet Mini Lathe when I upgraded to the larger Jet with the variable speed (instead of keeping it for a dedicated buffing system) - and my wife will kill me when I tell her I'm going to be doing something about that.......[:0]

Before I complete the final order for finishing products, I'm hoping some of you CA pros out there will address the issue of the final steps to a perfect finish - with or without a buffing system. If I must have a buffing system - which ones work well? Do they all involved variable speed lathes? Do I need to remove the One-way chuck to use such a system? [?]

Thanks for your help.

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[ncseeker]

I don't believe a buffer is mandatory. Using MM all the way to 12000 you should get an almost perfect finish. By using the plastic polish you should be able to achieve a perfect finish without a buffer.

Just my two cents worth.

 

[Blind_Squirrel]

Do you have a grinder? If so, just get yourself a buffing wheel for one side of it. So far the two best things that I have done by far to enhance my finishes are TSW and a buffing wheel. No matter WHAT finish I have used, the TSW has been like putting the cherry on top. I just can't say enough good things about TSW. []

 

[Pipes]

are you guys using a buffer to put TSW on ??? [?]

 

[DCBluesman]

TSW is wiped on, then either hand or machine buffed.

 

[wayneis]

The only thing that I buff is acrylics. When I do an Enduro or CA finish I use MM only and get a glass clear finish.

Wayne

 

[RogerGarrett]

Originally posted by wayneis
<br />The only thing that I buff is acrylics. When I do an Enduro or CA finish I use MM only and get a glass clear finish.

Wayne

Wayne,

Do you buff at a slow speed, or can I use my grinder with a buffing wheel to do the work. Grinder is a one basic speed grinder.

It's starting to sound like a three wheel buffing system on the lathe is needed for acrylics but not wood........

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[wdcav1952]

Roger,

I don't do much buffing. Some time back, Bruce Boone was selling what I call the "Boone Buff" system. For about $15, I got a Morse Taper and end cap that fits on a wool paint roller. I marked one end for white diamond polish, and the other for TSW. Very inexpensive system, and when the roller wears out, go back to Lowes! BTW, if you go this way, do not get anything but the wool rollers.

FWIW,

 

[RogerGarrett]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />I don't do much buffing. Some time back, Bruce Boone was selling what I call the "Boone Buff" system. For about $15, I got a Morse Taper and end cap that fits on a wool paint roller. I marked one end for white diamond polish, and the other for TSW. Very inexpensive system, and when the roller wears out, go back to Lowes! BTW, if you go this way, do not get anything but the wool rollers.

William,

I'm sorry it took me so long to get back to this post and this idea. This sounds ideal for me. Do you have contact for where to get the morse taper and end cap?

Can I make my own?

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[RogerGarrett]

Originally posted by wdcav1952
<br />I don't do much buffing. Some time back, Bruce Boone was selling what I call the "Boone Buff" system. For about $15, I got a Morse Taper and end cap that fits on a wool paint roller. I marked one end for white diamond polish, and the other for TSW. Very inexpensive system, and when the roller wears out, go back to Lowes! BTW, if you go this way, do not get anything but the wool rollers.

Forgot to ask - do you buff at a slower speed? Will a dedicated cheapo one speed grinder with two buffing wheels work?

Best,
Roger Garrett

 

[btboone]

Hi Roger,
The buff mandrels can be found here: www.boonerings.com/htmpages/buffmandrels.htm