Question on scroll saw blades

[Daniel]

For all of you scroll saw workers.
I have a huge project I am working on. I have used my saw quite a bit but have always gotten by on the $4.00 4 packs of blades from the hardware store.

I have been looking on line for blades in bulk and have mainly found Olson or Flying Dutchman blades

I am looking for recommendations in both brand and supplier of blades.

I will be cutting tons of cedar both 3/4 and 7/4

I will most likely do most of the 7/4 on my band saw but there will be small finish cuts I have to do on the scroll saw.

The project is in the round so both sides of the cut need to be clean.

So far I am looking at No. 5 Reverse tooth for the 3/4 material
No.9 Reverse tooth for the 7/4 material.

One extra question is what is the smallest diameter I can expect to cut with the No. 9 blade?

With the few blades I did have I figure I will need about half a gross of them. so if I have to buy that many I would like them to be as quality as I can get with some quick research.

Thanks ahead of time.

 

[Seer]

Flying Dutchman is the best blade. You can get them from Mikes Workshop very fast shipping and a great guy to work with. I placed my original order when I first started and ordered a gross of blades that were like hairs and he called me before shipping them to make sure those were what i wanted, saved me from returning them because of my lack of knowledge at the time. The blades are machined not stamped and last longer than any others I use.
Here is his website: http://www.mikesworkshop.com/
I know you will like these blades Daniel

 

[Longfellow]

Flying Dutchman is the best blade. You can get them from Mikes Workshop very fast shipping and a great guy to work with. I placed my original order when I first started and ordered a gross of blades that were like hairs and he called me before shipping them to make sure those were what i wanted, saved me from returning them because of my lack of knowledge at the time. The blades are machined not stamped and last longer than any others I use.
Here is his website: http://www.mikesworkshop.com/
I know you will like these blades Daniel

I agree-- Bought from Mike multiple times. No complaints- good blades-good price.

 

[Daniel]

I found Mikes site right after posting this thread. Been busy reading about his life, Cancer and other adventures. When I read the suggestion on blades "Buy a bunch of different types and brands and see what you like" I thought now this guy must be a penturner at heart.

I already like him so glad to see him recommended.

 

[Seer]

If you call him and tell him what you are doing he will give a good recommendation on the blades to use. I have been using his reverse tooth and they are the best, clean cuts and long lasting.

 

[jkeithrussell]

My .02: get some #12 blades for the thicker material.

 

[jkeithrussell]

One extra question is what is the smallest diameter I can expect to cut with the No. 9 blade?

I'm sure there is a more technically correct answer, but if you drill a hole that is just big enough for the blade to pass through, that is also the smallest diameter you can expect to cut -- which is pretty small. If I remember correctly, a 1/16th hole is more than enough for a #9 blade.

 

[Phunky_2003]

I've dealt with Mike on multiple occasions. Great person who honestly cares about everyone he meets and deals with. If you call him and talk to him about the project your working on. He will send you exactly what you need.

James

 

[Daniel]

I gotta start trying to turn these things much tighter than I ever thought of.
From what I found even the #12 fits through a 1/16 inch hole. I know I found a chart one time for band saw blades and what min radius they would cut. I simply transferred that thinking to scroll saw blades. I did see a mention of making turns by simply turning the work with the blade in one spot.
I would prefer the #12 for the thick stuff but some of the curves are 1/4 inch or smaller and was worried that the bigger blade would not make it. guess I can stop that now.

Thanks for all the advice and I will give Mike a call. sound like a guy I would enjoy talking to anyway.

I'm sure there is a more technically correct answer, but if you drill a hole that is just big enough for the blade to pass through, that is also the smallest diameter you can expect to cut -- which is pretty small. If I remember correctly, a 1/16th hole is more than enough for a #9 blade.

 

[jkeithrussell]

For practice, thread the blade through the smallest hole that will accept the blade. Turn on the scroll saw and spin the wood around the blade. You should be able to do that without the blade touching the wood. The thickness of the blade is the only limitation on the radius of the cut on a scroll saw. For that reason, using a larger blade is a good idea when working with thicker material. If you use a blade that is too small, the cut will taper as the blade bows and flexes. Scrolling is a lot of fun.

 

[Daniel]

It is really nice to use a tool that I do not have to worry about eating parts of my body once in a while.

 

[jttheclockman]

Daniel

I will go on that list of using nothing but Flying Dutchman blades. Mike is one of those guys who will treat you right and his sevice is spot on. If you go to his site he has a chart for drill bit sizes for blades and he sells those as well. He has a variety of blade types including spiral blades that have a cutting edge the entire blade. This is so you do not have to turn the wood and you can cut from any direction. Thes have a bit of a learning curve if you grew up using standard flat blades. For what you are doing I would go no larger than a #9 for the thicker stuff and a #5 for the 3/4" stuff. What you can do is vary the tooth configuration and it maybe a good idea to get some samples. He will be glad to send samples. If I recall you mentioned the wood is cedar which is a soft wood so no problem cutting that. The one huge thing and it is important with all cuttings is to let the blade do the cutting and do not apply sideward pressure especially the thick stuff or you will get tappered cuts. If you find yourself pushing sideward just let off on your pushing and let the blade catch up. The FD blades last alot longer than you realize so you may not need as many as you mentioned but it is always cheaper to buy more than not enough. Mike will set you up and if you want to mention my name go ahead. Won't get you any better prices but will give him an idea your question was asked on a forum. Good luck.

 

[workinforwood]

I buy my blades from the old codger too. I generally use a #9 skip tooth. For cedar at 3/4-1" thick, that blade will eat it up real good for you. I think maybe he calls it a polar blade? It's not a reverse tooth blade, just a skip tooth. The reverse tooth you loose some control, especially in the turns because you are fighting a cut action that goes up and down rather than just down.

 

[Daniel]

I talked to Mike and he recommended No.s 1,5,9 in the Ultra Reverse Blades. He said that a lot of his customers are going to the UR blade as some of the control is returned with it. I have been using Vermont American Reverse blades to this point so I know all about the loosing control stuff. don't take your hand off that sucker even if you are using the foot.
My speed is not going to be effected by a blade change at this point as I simply do not have that much experience. Improved control is my main concern along with the blades lasting longer. I did learn a ton of stuff reading Mikes site though. I in creased the tension on my blade just a bit and am paying much more attention to not pushing the blade sideways. Both cause the blade to overheat and dull faster. at this time I am getting about 3 pieces cut per blade in the 3/4 material. I have about 30 of them to go. I still decided to order 4 dozen of each blade size as I don't plan on this being the only project I do. plus it gives me the one gross price. I don't feel nearly as bad when the blade breaks when it cost less the 22 cents. I might actually start changing them before they break at that price.

 

[jttheclockman]

Hi Daniel. glad you are working it out. You have piqued my curiosity. Is there a chance you could give us a little insight as to what you are working on??? That is a good thing with the FD blades, alot of time they don't break and you will have to change before then. You will know when you need to change after awhile.

 

[Daniel]

The project is making 36 sleigh and Reindeer (9 deer per set) that are compound sawn little statues.

Long story how I ever got into this it. in short it was a sign of my willingess to be obedient that turned into the biggest single challenge of my life. it is now almost 5 years later and I am finally getting back to completing the original project.

 

[jkeithrussell]

Ugh. That sounds more like work than fun. At least you are starting in June. That's the type of thing I would start on December 15.

 

[workinforwood]

Awesome..those are great projects. Too much tension is better than not enough, you got that right. Not sure why you only get 3 pieces cut on a blade though. Maybe the blade isn't as dull as you think. Should be able to cut at least 15 with a single blade and it still not be broken. I re-use the dull ones for mixing or poking inlays and what not before I toss them. I scroll everyday I'm in the shop, and only use about 100 blades per year. Can't even remember last time a blade broke. Usually if a blade does break on me, it's just a tiny piece at the top from constantly re-chucking the blade. You'll get it though..takes practice. With compounding, you are also going to use a few extra because you have no choice but make tight turns. With flat cutting, you can chip away some wood before making a turn so that there is not so much pressure on the blade. Hope to see you work when it's done.

oh..one more thing. If you had brought this topic up in a scrollsaw forum..you would have insited a riot! When it comes to what blade is best..those are fighting words for some. Silly..sure, but so so true.

 

[jttheclockman]

Not sure what the design of your reindeer are but if you ever went to one of those woodworking shows, there are always guys there sawing those things out using a bandsaw. They must do so many of them they can do them in their sleep. Hope you post a photo of a finished set.

AHHHHHHHHHH the blade wars. Yes those were the days. :tongue:

 

[artistwood]

daniel, for the last ten years i have used the olson 9pgt blades exclusively. i have never used the dutchman blades so i cant speculate on them. i can cut a diameter of 1/16" with the olsons as in cutting a 1/16" dowell out of a piece of cedar. the other advantage is that i can resharpen the blades on the saw with a diamond nail file. i can do this 5 or 6 times before i have to change blades. just a quick touch up and i'mm off again. i have cut miles of everything from cedar to yellowheart. i think i might try the dutchman blades.....never know, i might like them. if you pm me an address, i'll send you a few of the pgt's to try. that way you're not out anything. they do cut fast, smooth and don't leave a fuzzy edge on the top or bottom. just let me know if you want to try them......have a good one.....bear

 

[Daniel]

Just an update on my skill progress.
the blade tension change s has made a huge difference in how long the blades last. I am on the 7 piece on this latest blade and still going. it also made a big difference in control.
after being told I should be able to spin the wood in place and cut a hole the same size as the blade I have drastically changed how I am cutting out the pieces. basically I went from cutting out bits and pieces to cutting everything out as one piece. they really do cut much sharper corners than I ever expected. This brought my time per piece way down. by almost half.

John I do the majority of the Deer themselves on the band saw with a 1/8 inch blade. but the area around the mouth and nose is to tight of a turn so I do those on the scroll saw.

Bear, thanks much for the offer, I am down to only 3 blades left so I am sure I will have to get another little package of them before mike's arrive. I will look for Olsen blades just to see what I think of them. Even Mike told me to use as many blades as I can get my hands on. Never know when something suits your particular style and trying them is really the only way to find those little differences. I am just now getting to the point that I would be able to tell a difference if a blade had one.

 

[workinforwood]

Awesome. Heck..think about it..the looser the blade, the more it bends on the up and down motion being forced up and down through the wood..especially going up, and so all the flexing is more heat and bending, then it breaks. Kudo's to you!