Well, i went to the shop with 2 of the pens that had the problem.Does it rub off? I've put pens in an enclosed case soon after finishing and they "off-gassed" causing a similar look.
If it doesn't rub off, what were the steps in your finishing process? Did you wet sand?
Yes, so i did refinish. sanded to 1000 grit dry, cleaned it with alcohol, let that dry and started with new CA finisch. 4 coats of middle viscosity and sanded from 1000 to 12000The most common cause of that is moisture or high humidity as the CA is curing. Many times this happens on oily woods or woods that are not fully dried. However yes there are dozens of other possible reasons. Old CA or too much accelerator can cause this as well.
Only real option is to scrap it down and refinish.
Most of the woods i already have years in the shop, on a shelf against the wall. so moisture i don't believe yet. I'll ask my son in law for the moisture meterIt looks like gassing off. But there are two different reasons: Gassing off and moisture. On the outside is usually gassing off; in the CA itself un under the CA is moisture as though denatured alcohol was used to clean it or some brands of accelerator were used.
Gassing off is letting it set out in the open or open box-drawer for 24-48 hours before enclosing. This does not happen on a repeatable scale, as temp and relative humidity seem to play a minor part.
The moisture that affects CA finishes in most pen blanks are not from moisture in the wood (i.e. green wood) per se. It comes from wiping it with DNA and sometimes it comes in from accelerant, and there is also the Humidity factor. DNA cooling effect will draw moister into the wood. Not much but enough to affect the CA from the wood side.Most of the woods i already have years in the shop, on a shelf against the wall. so moisture i don't believe yet. I'll ask my son in law for the moisture meter
^^ This ^^As we have read over the past 15 years here there are as many variations of doing a CA finish as there are members here. My thoughts are and this is my opinion. Stop sanding to such a high grit. Stop at either 400 or 600 and that is all. What you are doing is with every increased grit number you are closing the grain and pores of the wood. Leave some tooth for the adhesive to adhere to. I never go past 600 grit and usually stop at 400. Next any wood and especially oily wood needs to be wiped with a dissolve and I like to use acetone. or DNA. Then after this drys, use a couple coats of thin CA and no accelerator. After that is now sealed so proced to med CA and finish as desired. Make sure though you seal ends if you are wet sanding. I never had a problem following these steps and yes I use Satellite City CA.
I'm learning and learning. GREAT!! When i cleaned the blanks with DNA a little color came off the blanks. I used thin CA, from a woodturners shop here in the Netherlands, No brand on the bottle. But it works very well. I like segmenting very much and working with veneers for contrast.^^ This ^^
Sometimes a change to your prep and even your first few base layers (think of them as primer) can have a huge impact on the final result.
DNA somewhat, and acetone especially does take some of the color out of certain woods such as dark brown, black and bright red woods. Some oils, particularly amber like oils add great tone to tan and brown woods.I'm learning and learning. GREAT!! When i cleaned the blanks with DNA a little color came off the blanks.