Please help

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Fisch makes a set and I don't know if they sell individual bits or not. Here is their web site: https://www.fisch-tools.com/en/

Here is a set for Fisch on Amazon that INCLUDES an 11.5. You have to look down the page to find that the set offers metric in full and .5 sizes up to 13.


that is a high price just to get one. If you check with the company, someone might be able to help you with the 11.5 only.

One other item is - while they are listed as brad points, they do have a center point but the edges do not have protruding edge points as most people call brad points.

Here is another set at half the price of the Fisch but I don't know the quality
 
leehljp said:
Fisch makes a set and I don't know if they sell individual bits or not. Here is their web site: https://www.fisch-tools.com/en/

Here is a set for Fisch on Amazon that INCLUDES an 11.5. You have to look down the page to find that the set offers metric in full and .5 sizes up to 13.


that is a high price just to get one. If you check with the company, someone might be able to help you with the 11.5 only.

One other item is - while they are listed as brad points, they do have a center point but the edges do not have protruding edge points as most people call brad points.

Here is another set at half the price of the Fisch but I don't know the quality
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Thank you
 
What @Rob_Mc said — get a 29/64 bit. Brad point bits are readily available on Amazon & elsewhere. The difference is imperceptible (less than 0.01mm)

BTW, our Bushings & Tubes app includes a handy drill bit converter to compare Imperial, Metric, and Gauge bit sizes.
 
I am not trying to open a can of worms here. Although there are those that swear by brad-point drills, I have put nearly all of mine away and almost exclusively use standard twist drills. Although the brad-points make a clean entry hole they can be prone to cause more tear out on the exit side because the last few wood fibers are unsupported so pressure makes them bend and tear. They are also difficult, if not impossible, to sharpen and are generally more expensive to manufacture than standard twist drills of a comparable quality.

That being said, many of us are successful with standard twist drills as much as many are successful with brad-points, so don't put too much emphasis on the style of bit you use.

Dave
 
egnald said:
I am not trying to open a can of worms here. Although there are those that swear by brad-point drills, I have put nearly all of mine away and almost exclusively use standard twist drills. Although the brad-points make a clean entry hole they can be prone to cause more tear out on the exit side because the last few wood fibers are unsupported so pressure makes them bend and tear. They are also difficult, if not impossible, to sharpen and are generally more expensive to manufacture than standard twist drills of a comparable quality.

That being said, many of us are successful with standard twist drills as much as many are successful with brad-points, so don't put too much emphasis on the style of bit you use.

Dave
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Thanks for this, Dave.

I was wondering what the thoughts were here about brad point bits. I've got a collection of both. I know the Drill Bit Doctor doesn't sharpen brad points, so that makes them rather disposable.
 
i found the catch drill bits from black and decker have a tip profile like a w shape and cut well avoiding breakout if you are careful with pressure. But putting a backing piece to support the end where you breakthrough is ALWAYS a good idea

Oops I don't think they make anything beyond a 10mm in that range though so not a lot of help to your question
 
derekdd said:
Thanks for this, Dave.

I was wondering what the thoughts were here about brad point bits. I've got a collection of both. I know the Drill Bit Doctor doesn't sharpen brad points, so that makes them rather disposable.
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the drill doctor will sharpen a brad point of you take it to a grinder first and change the grind on it 🤣. I've done this to a few brad points that have given me fits.
 
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