Pen Mill Sharpness

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hazmat74

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Harrisburg, Pennsylvania, USA
Finally got my workspace set up and useable, so I was prepping some blanks last night. When I got to the point of using the pen mill, it took a good number of attempts to get the wood down to the level of the brass tube.

I didn't expect the pen mill to be highly aggressive, but it seemed to be performing more of a burnishing operation rather than a removal of stock operation. I got there, but it was a workout over about 15 minutes. I only had about 3/16" to get down to the tube. What should I be expecting from this tool? I have other options, so I'm not wedded to it, though it's the most convenient option currently. If I have to go through that every time I need to mill the blank, it's going to become frustrating.
 
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If useing the pen mill is your #1 choice contact Paul in OKC and send them o him. When you get it back be careful as it will be razor sharp.
 
I try not to leave any more than 1/16 on for the pen mill to take off. But it should not have taken 15 minutes. What happens is if after the wood gets hot and burnishes, it actually gets harder to cut. So you need to do it in pulses so the surface does not glaze. Try bandsawing the pre-milled blank closer to the tube first.
 
I use a diamond stone with some WD-40 to sharpen mine by hand, keeping the stone flat against the large inner flat surface of the mill (with the pilot removed). Equal passes on each, usually 15-20. Then I set it on some 400 grit sandpaper and gently rotate it counterclockwise to remove any burr that built up. That should get you back on track.
 

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Thanks for the responses. I'll spend a bit of time sharpening the mill, or maybe I'll just toss it and make a jig for my disc sander this weekend. I've used something similar to a pen mill for drilling mortises in pipe shanks while simultaneously squaring up the shoulder so I had an expectation it would work similarly. They're nearly the exact same tool. A few passes of a diamond file should do wonders.
 
Dan has it right, you need to sharpen it. Capn Eddie has a good youtube on how to touch one up, but it sounds like you may need a little more than a touch up.

I did get one once that had almost no bevel to the cutters. It took forever to cut. A couple of minutes with my sander and a diamond card fixed it up. I sanded about a 5 degree angle on the cutter end. Made a huge difference.
 
There's a bevel, at least. I didn't feel it was sharp enough, but figured I was new to this so I'd see what happened. I would have saved myself some arm fatigue by stopping and introducing it to my diamond file, but newbies do what newbies do! As with most things, "factory sharp" doesn't mean a whole lot. At least prior to this, I drilled straight holes, so there was some good out of the evening.
 
Great link to the PDF. Its how I do it, but the author really explained it well to someone who is new and wouldn't know not to sharpen the 'red' zones.

Sandy.
 
Maybe a dumb question

This might be a dumb question, but are using the pen mill by hand or in the lathe or drill press? If you are using by hand it will take a little longer but still not 15 minutes unless it is a VERY hard wood or Tru-Stone.
 
I use a forstner bit and a four jaw chuck. When I drill them in my 4 jaw chuck, I put a mark on the blank for my #1 jaw. Then put in tubes, glue drys, back in 4 jaw chuck on the mark, and face with forstner bit. Ready to turn. Phil
 
I had it in a powered hand drill, the blank in a vise. I don't think it would have made any difference had I used my lathe or drill press. It was only making the lightest of shavings, really just dust, when I would put any kind of pressure on the blank.

Indiana_Parrothead said:
This might be a dumb question, but are using the pen mill by hand or in the lathe or drill press? If you are using by hand it will take a little longer but still not 15 minutes unless it is a VERY hard wood or Tru-Stone.
Click to expand...
 
mpmopc said:
I use a forstner bit and a four jaw chuck. When I drill them in my 4 jaw chuck, I put a mark on the blank for my #1 jaw. Then put in tubes, glue drys, back in 4 jaw chuck on the mark, and face with forstner bit. Ready to turn. Phil
Click to expand...

Phil,

Just be careful that the drill bit doesn't wander when drilling the hole. Not unusual with a 7mm bit and squirrelly grain and/or a dull bit. Since you are referencing the blank instead of the tube you could end up out of square with the tube.

Tom
 
Ok, I am going to voice my opinion, which is contrary to popular recommendations. If there is a nick, then I file the long side, the one that everyone recommends. But this is really just making sure the chisel is flat.

Then I file each short edge (the red one in the pdf). I use a jewelers file, lay the mill on its side. You can criticize me if you wish, but my mill is sharp and effective. I always chuck mine in my Dewalt drill. The drill speed is really slow, and this was after just a few seconds:


 
I just got a new one yesterday, thanks for the run of the mill ideas, hope it doesnt go dull too fast, but it probably will, good tips..short bursts should keep it sharper longer
 
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