No bushings...turn between centers?

[Chasboy1]

Hi Folks, I have a pen I'm making that I discovered I have no bushings for, and I think it's too late to get them in time. Can I turn it between centers? I have a 4 jaw chuck I can mount a home made drive center to and a good live center in the tail stock. Didn't realize there are SO many bushing sizes!!

 

[philipff]

Hi Folks, I have a pen I'm making that I discovered I have no bushings for, and I think it's too late to get them in time. Can I turn it between centers? I have a 4 jaw chuck I can mount a home made drive center to and a good live center in the tail stock. Didn't realize there are SO many bushing sizes!!

i TRIED that and found that there was a slight vib in the chuck so I put in a dead center, directly in the headstock and the result was smooth as glass. It is somewhat easier to use bushings but with a bit of care you can turn down to the correct sizes with a caliper and achieve great results.

 

[philipff]

i TRIED that and found that there was a slight vib in the chuck so I put in a dead center, directly in the headstock and the result was smooth as glass. It is somewhat easier to use bushings but with a bit of care you can turn down to the correct sizes with a caliper and achieve great results.

 

[magpens]

@Chasboy1

In my opinion, you are better off without bushings.

Measure carefully and frequently with the caliper and your results will be superior. . But make all measurements with your work OFF the lathe.

 

[Chasboy1]

Thanks, I've done it before, my only problem was with the work sometimes catching. I did get a better live center for the tailstock than I originally had.
I have a Shopsmith so I can't put a dead center in the headstock unless it's made like the drive center designed for wood that comes with the machine.

 

[duncsuss]

Are you against a tight deadline to make this pen?

If not, contact Rick Herrell, I'm sure that he could make a 60 degree dead center that would fit onto the Shopsmith drive spindle, which would be far more accurate than holding a center in a chuck (which is mounted on the drive spindle). He has a section in the vendors forum.

 

[magpens]

I am not familiar with the Shopsmith. . You may have to grind the spurs off the (dead) drive center. . Don't alter the conical center portion.

Or order a custom-made drive center to suit, as suggested by Duncan.

But you said you have a 4-jaw chuck for the headstock. . That should be fine to hold a straight-sided dead center with conical tip.

With regard to your work catching ... I don't see how that potential problem is different with or without turning between centers.

 

[DrD]

At the drive end of your Shopsmith, can you mount a Jacob chuck on an appropriate spindle, e.g. Mt2 or mt 1, or whatever? Harbor Freight, if close to you, can set you up with a Jacob. Next, you can turn a makeshift wood 60 deg dead center from dowel to fit into the Jacob. Then, after checking the dia of cap finial, center band, and the widest part of the tip, you're good to go, without worrying about those dadgum bushings.

 

[Mortalis]

I just turned a pen that I found bushings in my inventory that had the correct ID size and then used a vernier to tell when I was good with the OD.

 

[duncsuss]

At the drive end of your Shopsmith, can you ...

If it's the same as the Shopsmith I know, it is a solid 5/8" round shaft with a flat that lets you use a locking screw to keep whatever is attached from spinning. There might be Jacob's chucks that will fit the shaft.

 

[dogcatcher]

If you have a drill chuck that fits the headstock, use it with a piece of a drill bit that fits in the tube. Find the correct drill bit to fit the tube, cut off about 1" of the shank, with a washer this will be your driver for the headstock. The live center on the tailstock. Turn between centers without bushings.

 

[Chasboy1]

Thanks all. Yes I have the Jacobs chuck that came with the machine. (My father in law gave it to me, he bought it in 1954) I did take an old 1/2 drill and cut off the shank, leaving it to be about 2" long and then ground a taper on it. My concern about the work catching with the centers spinning, is there's nothing other than the pressure from the quill holding the work against the live center, seems that a mandrel 'should' be better? I'm open to learning about other's experiences in this regard.

 

[Edgar]

It's also quite easy to make your own bushings. Just be careful not to hit them with your turning tool or while sanding and you can easily get multiple uses from them.

 

[magpens]

@Chasboy1

My concern about the work catching with the centers spinning, is there's nothing other than the pressure from the quill holding the work against the live center, seems that a mandrel 'should' be better? I'm open to learning about other's experiences in this regard.

OK, I get the point. . You do need to take lighter cuts when turning between centers. . The quill pressure can be increased, up to a point, should it happen that your workpiece slips/spins. . But excessive pressure can do some damage so careful adjustment is advisable.

I actually use a diamond coated cone as the dead center. . Friction is thereby increased reducing the tendency to spin. . The diamond cone can be purchased from a woodworking supply place. . It is intended for sharpening those hollow cutters used for making square holes in wood.

Using this cone and taking light cuts with a sharp tool, I have always had good success with turning between centers.