New Pen Blank Sled

[gtriever]

I've just completed a new dedicated table saw sled for pen blank cutting. It combines elements from my Picture Frame sled, Mini Crosscut sled, and from different web resources.

This sled is the same size as my mini crosscut sled; there is a stop block on the right side paired with a Starrett self-adhesive measuring tape for 90 degree cuts. The block has a piece of plexiglass screwed to the top, which extends over the Starrett rule for more precision. The block was installed in the t-slot and locked down, and then the edge was trimmed to match up with the sled's kerf. A vertical handle toggle clamp holds the work piece in place when cutting or trimming.

On the left side, a recessed tee nut is installed on the bottom of the sled. I shaved the head down on a 1/4-20 bolt and threaded it thru from the bottom, then secured it with blue Loctite. It's used for both a hold down clamp and also to mount angle templates for 15, 22.5, 30 and 45 degree cuts. The templates ride against the 3/4 flat fence and are also held in place under the hold down clamp. When they're not being used they store on top of the 3/4 flat fence and are held in place by a wooden dowel.

Hope you enjoy...

Art

 

[Rink]

That's great, several good ideas. Thanks for sharing. I also made a pen blank sled for my table saw, but much simpler (read "manual" ).

 

[bpgoldo]

Art, I would be very grateful to see a series of photos showing how the sled is used to achieve the type of cuts you have designed the sled to achieve. Wisdom in design deserves to be fully understood in application.

 

[gtriever]

Brian, I hope this is what you were looking for. Here are sample photos of a standard 90 setup, a 45 and a 15. The sled is designed so you can use one or both hold downs for the stock. The toggle clamp is set right at the edge of the kerf, and the hold down clamp can be adjusted that way as well. Also, I may have been unclear; the angle templates were designed for cutting segments, not for doing partial cuts in the blanks.

That's another jig, another day...

 

[Mortalis]

I like your ideas for the T-slot and the angled boards.
I've always been hesitant to use the table saw for cutting pen blanks only due to width of the kerf. I guess if you have long enough blanks the 1/8" kerf/cut shouldnt be an issue.
I use my band saw with a modified T-Square. Since I always trim the blanks after tube gluing the the straightness isnt that much concern even though I get pretty straight cuts.
Since just anyone that does any kind of woodworking has a table saw, you use what you got to get the job done.
Heh, I have yet to make a sled for my table saw in the 30+ years I've been woodworking.
Nice job on yours though!

 

[gtriever]

Revision 1.1

I've made a few afterthought revisions to the sled:

(1)Added a second hold down on the opposite side.
(2) Recut the angle templates out of 1/4 Masonite, and made a set for the right side as well.
(3) Added templates for 60 degrees, a 90 degree center rip for 3/4 blanks, and a 90 degree Thin Kerf width rip template.
(4) Stuck a 1 inch piece of T-track on the back of the fence to hold the stop block when using right side templates.

 

[NVSB4]

I like your sled and plan on stealing most of it, but have a question.
Is there a need for a second set of angle templates? Can't you just flip them over to cut on the other side of the blade? (Nevermind, after reviewing the picture better, I answered my own question. I'll probably make a smaller stop block and put the hold downs in the same place on both sides so I can make one set of templates.)

 

[gtriever]

Steal away, Chris. I'm sure you can improve on it. If I'd planned this thing instead of "engineering on the fly" I'd probably have installed t-track all the way across the sled, drilled the templates to ride in the tracks, and figured out a different placement for the hold down clamps.

 

[OZturner]

I've made a few afterthought revisions to the sled:

(1)Added a second hold down on the opposite side.
(2) Recut the angle templates out of 1/4 Masonite, and made a set for the right side as well.
(3) Added templates for 60 degrees, a 90 degree center rip for 3/4 blanks, and a 90 degree Thin Kerf width rip template.
(4) Stuck a 1 inch piece of T-track on the back of the fence to hold the stop block when using right side templates.


View attachment 164346

Art Congratulations,
You have put a Lot of thought and effort into this Sled,
Many thanks,
Brian,
BTW, Will it make my Coffee also?

 

[gtriever]

BTW, Will it make my Coffee also?

No, that's done with the Drill Press. :biggrin:

Thank you for the compliments, Brian.



Art

 

[walshjp17]

Perfect sled. Thanks for posting.

 

[kruzzer]

Nice job on the sled... you have some great ideas

 

[GDIS46]

I know this thread is about one year old now but I am wondering how you get a consistent distance for a segmented cut.

Example:

1. I want to start a 45° cut 2" up from the bottom of the blank. How do I know where the cut will begin? If there was a stop block, I would just bottom out the blank, lock it down, and make the cut.

2. I will then glue a piece of thin material on the 45° cut then trim the excess off. (side note: I am not sure how I would trim off the excess material with this sled.)

3. I then rotate the blank 180° to make the same 45° cut on the opposite side. There is no stop block to make sure I am exactly 2" up as on the opposite side.

Is this process not possible with this sled design or am I missing something?

 

[gtriever]

Thanks for that question, Gary. It can be done by using a stop block attached with double sided tape, or with pencil marks on the blank, but I've since found that it's rather kludgy. This was version 1.0 and engineered "on the fly". I now use this sled only for cross cutting, and another sled for angled cuts. I'm working on version 3 in my search for the "perfect" sled...

 

[jttheclockman]

I know this thread is about one year old now but I am wondering how you get a consistent distance for a segmented cut.

Example:

1. I want to start a 45° cut 2" up from the bottom of the blank. How do I know where the cut will begin? If there was a stop block, I would just bottom out the blank, lock it down, and make the cut.

2. I will then glue a piece of thin material on the 45° cut then trim the excess off. (side note: I am not sure how I would trim off the excess material with this sled.)

3. I then rotate the blank 180° to make the same 45° cut on the opposite side. There is no stop block to make sure I am exactly 2" up as on the opposite side.

Is this process not possible with this sled design or am I missing something?

You are better off making specific jigs for the angle you want and make adjustable from there. such as this jig.

 

[gr8macbeth]

I have limited space in my garage/shop, and I really love your design. It will save me a lot of space by eliminating some of my other jigs. Thank you so much for sharing it.

Thanks Joe