My penmaking video | "Hydrengea and Swallow" inspired fountain pen

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brainick

brainick

Member
Joined
May 10, 2024
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62
Location
Munich
Hello everyone,

I recently uploaded my first pen making video and thought I'd share it here with fellow pen turners.

The pen was inspired by Katsushika Hokusai's Hydrangea and Swallows. I had previously created a custom resin blank based on the artwork and documented the process of turning it into a fountain pen.

I'm very new to making videos and definitely not a professional content creator, so I'd really appreciate any feedback—whether it's about the pen making, camera work, pacing, editing, or anything else you think could be improved.

Thank you for taking the time to watch, and I'm looking forward to learning from your comments and experience.
 
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Nice video! Not sure if I missed it but didn't see you make the accent ring. Curious your approach to this. I have started doing this on some of my pens, and using a wood lathe, have had to get creative to get it square so there are no gaps when gluing it in. I've also done some threaded, but think it's a bit more work than necessary. My process has been to use the tenon cutter to square one side before parting it off, then using a parting tool to part it off as close to 90 degrees as I can by eye, then gluing or screwing it on the tenon, and then hitting it with the tenon cutter again to square the other side if needed (sometimes I don't need to but depends on how steady my hand is that day). I also just got a bench sander, so may try squaring up the first side on that next time. Planning to get a metal lathe soon which should simplify the process, but open to suggestions from anyone reading this!
 
Enjoyed the video! Nice work.....

Question - I saw you used a Hinze Tenon Cutter to do the Cap/Body tenon, but hand cut the section tenon. Any reason why you didn't use the Hinze cutter for the smaller tenon? Asking because I am having some issues with the tenon sizes, expecially the section and wondering if you have had the same problems.

Kevin
 
Leonardo said:
Nice video! Not sure if I missed it but didn't see you make the accent ring. Curious your approach to this. I have started doing this on some of my pens, and using a wood lathe, have had to get creative to get it square so there are no gaps when gluing it in. I've also done some threaded, but think it's a bit more work than necessary. My process has been to use the tenon cutter to square one side before parting it off, then using a parting tool to part it off as close to 90 degrees as I can by eye, then gluing or screwing it on the tenon, and then hitting it with the tenon cutter again to square the other side if needed (sometimes I don't need to but depends on how steady my hand is that day). I also just got a bench sander, so may try squaring up the first side on that next time. Planning to get a metal lathe soon which should simplify the process, but open to suggestions from anyone reading this!
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Hello, thank you. The aim of the ring I used in this video is to leave the same empty space between threads and step up. I am using it while making, I have two rings, one for M13 and another for M14, I think they are 4mm long. My intention was not to add accent ring.

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NJturner said:
Enjoyed the video! Nice work.....

Question - I saw you used a Hinze Tenon Cutter to do the Cap/Body tenon, but hand cut the section tenon. Any reason why you didn't use the Hinze cutter for the smaller tenon? Asking because I am having some issues with the tenon sizes, expecially the section and wondering if you have had the same problems.

Kevin
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Hi Kevin,

Hinze Tenon Cutter's diameters are exact numbers like 12, 13, 14mm and according to my experience (I am not an expert), there should be at least %10 less measurement for smooth threads in order to prevent getting stuck between cap and body. For M13, my tenon should be 12.80-12.90mm, for M14 it should be 13.80-13.90. For this reason, I find it extremely hard to find that sweet point on Hinze Tenon cutter, and when I had the right set up, try not to touch it. That is the reason, I don't do section tenons with it. I have to cut these parts 0.15mm thinner on metal lathe to solve this problem.

On the other hand, I am not bulk pen maker I am making mostly 3 pens at the same time. During making, instead of changing the setting of Hinze cutter, hand cutting sections tenons come easier to me.

Ahmet
 
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brainick said:
Hi Kevin,

Hinze Tenon Cutter's diameters are exact numbers like 12, 13, 14mm and according to my experience (I am not an expert), there should be at least %10 less measurement for smooth threads in order to prevent getting stuck between cap and body. For M13, my tenon should be 12.80-12.90mm, for M14 it should be 13.80-13.90. For this reason, I find it extremely hard to find that sweet point on Hinze Tenon cutter, and when I had the right set up, try not to touch it. That is the reason, I don't do section tenons with it. I have to cut these parts 0.15mm thinner on metal lathe to solve this problem.

On the other hand, I am not bulk pen maker I am making mostly 3 pens at the same time. During making, instead of changing the setting of Hinze cutter, hand cutting sections tenons come easier to me.

Ahmet
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Agreed. I am not a bulk maker either, but I do make a few pens monthly for gifts and giveaways, as I just enjoy making them. I've been using the Hinze cutters for a while, owning two so that I can set one up for each of the two sizes I make my pens - 10 and 13 mm. Set and forget was the goal. I work on a wood lathe, so always deal with alignment issues and other variables that a metal lathe might fix, but I enjoy the wood lathe for lots of things beyond pens.

Despite very careful set up of the tenon jig, my tenons are coming up undersized - more like 20% to 25% under, versus the suggested 10%. I think it is due to some wiggle in the guide pin, so I'm doing some more testing to narrow it down. I know some folks epoxy the guide pin into the jig body, but I am not a fan of doing that. Not sure if the jig is wearing out, or I am just doing something wrong, which was the reason for my question. I've also been hand cutting some tenons, but I've invested in the Hinze cutters, so it bothers me not to use them as I hoped.

Kevin
 
NJturner said:
Agreed. I am not a bulk maker either, but I do make a few pens monthly for gifts and giveaways, as I just enjoy making them. I've been using the Hinze cutters for a while, owning two so that I can set one up for each of the two sizes I make my pens - 10 and 13 mm. Set and forget was the goal. I work on a wood lathe, so always deal with alignment issues and other variables that a metal lathe might fix, but I enjoy the wood lathe for lots of things beyond pens.

Despite very careful set up of the tenon jig, my tenons are coming up undersized - more like 20% to 25% under, versus the suggested 10%. I think it is due to some wiggle in the guide pin, so I'm doing some more testing to narrow it down. I know some folks epoxy the guide pin into the jig body, but I am not a fan of doing that. Not sure if the jig is wearing out, or I am just doing something wrong, which was the reason for my question. I've also been hand cutting some tenons, but I've invested in the Hinze cutters, so it bothers me not to use them as I hoped.

Kevin
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My tenon cutter works well in terms of alignment. I am using 6mm drill bit to drill a hole for guide pin. I am pretty sure it fits so well that every time I try to take it back I hear the sound of "blub" pressured air in the hole. I am also working on wood lathe, I have also metal lathe recently, not using it actively. But my wood lathe is working all the time and I enjoy using it. My tenons' diameter is mostly between 12.96-13.02 if I use the cutter normally. For this reason, I am using tailstock holder on long position and press my hand to the center of the turning point while lathe runs to create some misalignment (on my favor) so that it becomes 12.85ish. Yes, I know, it is a weird way but works perfectly for me. Are you using collet chuck or what at turning side of the lathe? Have you evet considered changing tenon cutters between body and grip section? And maybe while locking tennon cutter with screws you can put 2-3 layers of paper between blade and the guide part to make it a little bit thicker?
 
brainick said:
….And maybe while locking tennon cutter with screws you can put 2-3 layers of paper between blade and the guide part to make it a little bit thicker
Click to expand...

I have found the center guide is sloppy in the tenon cutter hole, so I have been putting tension on it when setting the cutter to help get it consistent. I cut a test tenon on scrap and then readjust the cutter using flat feeler gauges between the provided guide and the cutter - similar to your suggestion of paper. I am considering drilling the tenon cutter guide hole deeper into the cutter body to give it a longer length in the body so it stays upright and doesn't wiggle. Also considering boring out the guide hole and using thicker brass stock to line the guide hole with brass to eliminate the slop in the hole.

I really like the tenon cutter, so need to get this adjusted and working right again as I am not super fond of cutting the tenons by hand. I liked the consistency of the cutter hole vs cutting by hand.

Kevin
 
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