Morse Taper vs. threaded mandrel

[overrocking]

Okay I am still very new and have yet to turn my first pen as I am still collecting the tools needed (Saw and Drill press).

I picked up a Ryobi mini 18 lathe for a song and have a pen mandrel question.

From what I have read the Lathe has a #1MT (I will verify with calipers later) and a 3/4" 16tpi threaded head stock.

PSI has mandrel kits in both configurations abd both the same price so

Which one is better, easier to use, less likely to break, etc...

 

[KenV]

Had that lathe once upon a time still have the headstock that I use to drive a small acrylc buffing wheel.

For that lathe go with the threaded tooling when you get the chance. The mt taper on mine easily galled and I had to clean it up with a reamer several times. Runout on the MT was never good and got larger as the reaming progressed over time.

So with equal to better runout from threads, small headstock, quaint access for a knock out bar.
And lots of 3/4 by 16 tooling available -- go for the threads.

I ran a Talon chuck on the Royobi that now runs on the 1 1/4 by 8 lathe.

 

[mikespenturningz]

I really don't think it is a matter of which is better because they will do exactly the same job for you. My preference if I was going to use a mandrel it would be the morse taper because in my opinion it would be more convenient but not better. I would also add to not get too much tied up in bushings and such to go with the mandrel until you get more experience. There are other ways to turn pens that don't necessarily use a mandrel. Many use a mandrel exclusively but many others don't so get a mandrel and bushings for a few different kits then get turning, as you get more experience you will be able to make the decision about mandrel or no mandrel that is right for you. Good luck with your decision.

 

[edstreet]

Lets look at several common situations.

*) threaded mandrel: two biggest drawbacks here. the threads seize up and the mandrel shaft bends. To prevent the threads seizing up you put a nylon washer so it would be easier to break the seal. Otherwise you will have a big mess on your hands. The bent mandrel well when the day is over the shaft is still bent, so only option on that is to replace it.

*) MT1/MT2 mandrel. You dont have the threads seizing up to deal with but you do have the bent mandrel still. In fact by taping out the MT shaft and not removing the mandrel shaft you have a higher risk % of bending the shaft. When the day is over with the shaft is still bent.

*) Turn Between Centers. You dont have the bent mandrel shaft but you do have to buy more tooling, i.e. live center, dead center and possibly bushings. The process may be faster and more efficient when you have all the tooling but the added cost is mostly a one time deal.

The other issue is MT1 vs MT2. Truth be known the motor on MT1 units are very low and more weight, i.e. metal = more work for the motor = less life span. My MT2 mandrel's weight is 257g, my dead center is 117g. Both setups need a live center of some form. Also you will be hard pressed to find tooling for MT1 setups. MT2 is more industry standard and very common and a very wide flexible range of gadgets and gizmo's.

 

[Ted iin Michigan]

Don't think it matters much. I prefer the MT just cause it's faster/easier to remove.

Happy Fathers Day

 

[KenV]

Timothy -- one thing to consider -- there is no way a drawbar can be installed on that lathe.

I found that the drill chucks that fit onto a 3/4 by 16 thread were pretty expensive. I found a couple on E-Bay used at a still hefty price, but they worked well. I have them with MT2 tapers mounted and use them on the big lathe.

I did find a 3/8 drill chuck on a MT1 taper in the garage. If you send me an address and can use it, I will send it to you. I looked and found a drill key to work the chuck.

I have a small bird cage awl mounted in it I use for deburring. I can make another handle, so better it is used for a real purpose. When you up grade to a "real lathe" with MT 2 tapers and power you can pass it along to another starting turner.

I made lots of pens, needle cases, bottle stoppers, tool handles, etc with that little lathe for a few years. It does turn the buffing wheel nicely.

 

[overrocking]

-- one thing to consider -- there is no way a drawbar can be installed on that lathe.

What is a drawbar? ... I did some Google searching and it wasn't too clear?

I did find a 3/8 drill chuck on a MT1 taper in the garage. If you send me an address and can use it, I will send it to you.

Wow! how generous of an offer a PM will be sent to work out the details.
Shipping from Alaska may be a little steep.

When you up grade to a "real lathe" with MT 2 tapers and power

[Jokingly] :giggle:Ouch! My brother has also started the so when are your going to get a real tool jokes too. And nothing is more frustrating than throwing good money into a system you know will need to be replaced as the learning curve climbs.

Currently I have invested $50 for the lathe, $18 for chisels, $20 for a new face shield and safety glasses. I have an old 5" grinder with the old style wheels. I still need a saw and drill press and the consumables... not the greatest collection but it should work for now hopefully upgrading will be an option in a few years.

you can pass it along to another starting turner.

Absolutely as a High School teacher I am always passing on my used equipment to kids that are interested

I made lots of pens, needle cases, bottle stoppers, tool handles, etc with that little lathe for a few years. It does turn the buffing wheel nicely.

That is the goal and it looks like I have found an online group to bounce the multitude of questions I know I am going to have.

Thanks

 

[Tom T]

This is a great group for sure. They sure have helped me. Let us see some of those pens in a few weeks.