More matte finish woes

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qquake

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This is an AA blank from Woodcraft called Irish Hill. It's a good looking blank. First I used 220-320-400-600 wet, then polished it with Tri-M-Ite. It polished up nicely. But I'm trying to put a matte finish on it. So I went back and used the first grade of Tri-M-Ite only, but you can't hardly see a difference.
 

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qquake

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So then I tried MicroMesh 1500 only. That didn't do it. I tried 0000 steel wool, which has worked for me in the past. But it left visible scratches.
 

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qquake

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So I hit it with MicroMesh 1500 again, then tried 3M synthetic steel wool, which is supposedly the equivalent of 0000. No scratches, but still not the matte finish I'm looking for. I'm at my wits' end. Does anybody have any ideas? Is there a polishing compound that might work? Maybe a wax?
 

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Jehster1

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Tried these?


Both say Satin finish which might be the 'Matte' finish you're looking for.
 

magpens

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Frankly, and with all due respect, I don't think sandblasting is the way to go for a resin blank.

My inclination would have been to use a "coarse" Meguiar's automotive "cut polish".

Or, in the absence of Mequiar's, my next suggestion would be 800 grit (or 600 but certainly no coarser) .... applied very lightly.

Can't understand why you are having this problem, Jim.
 

Charlie_W

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You might want to consider putting the finished blank in a tumbler perhaps with walnut shells or another media.
I would make a couple wooden "bushings" to put in the ends so the end /edge of the blank doesn't get rounded.
This may produce a more even matte finish than sand blasting. If the blank surface is abraded too much, it will most likely show whitish.
Good luck!
 

Dehn0045

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Have you been able to get a good matte with a CA finish? If so you could try putting a CA finish on this blank and use your normal method.
 

qquake

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Tried these?


Both say Satin finish which might be the 'Matte' finish you're looking for.
They have it cheaper at Woodcraft. Might be worth a try.

 

qquake

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Frankly, and with all due respect, I don't think sandblasting is the way to go for a resin blank.

My inclination would have been to use a "coarse" Meguiar's automotive "cut polish".

Or, in the absence of Mequiar's, my next suggestion would be 800 grit (or 600 but certainly no coarser) .... applied very lightly.

Can't understand why you are having this problem, Jim.
I have Meguiar's 105, which is a "cut" polish. But it's pretty glossy. 600 is a possibility, but still not as matte as I want. I can't figure it out. I've had good results in the past with 0000 steel wool. That's what I used on the Cigar pen below.
 

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magpens

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That cigar pen is nicely done ... and nicely matte.

Meguiar's product numbers are different in Canada.

When I do the "finishing" of blanks on my lathe I keep the lathe power off. . I rotate the headstock chuck by hand.
And I use only lengthwise strokes with fairly light pressure.

With acrylics, after turning to a smooth surface with round carbide cutter, I sand with 240, 320, 400, 600, (maybe 800), at which point the surface is looking pretty nice but is still matte.

Then I usually use Meguiar's cut polish (but sometimes omit that), and then use Novus 3 followed by Novus 2 and finally PlastX.

The surface is usually still quite matte after the Novus 3. . I get the same general results on AA acrylic, Rhino, and CA.

I have never noticed any significant variations in these results. . Sorry I cannot offer help specific to your problem of achieving matte.
 

Lucky2

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Wow, now isn't this kind of ironic, most times people are complaining about not being able to get a shiny enough finish. But I would think that with all that you have to sand blanks with, you should already have what you need on hand. Normally, I can end up with the look I want a pen to have, by using my Micro Mesh or fine sandpaper.

Len
 
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Frankly, and with all due respect, I don't think sandblasting is the way to go for a resin blank.

Well if Mont Blanc sandblast the resin body and cap of their Classique Ultra Black pens to get a matte finish then it should work for these blanks as well.
 

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leehljp

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Back about 13 years ago, I posted a thread on "To Shine or Not To Shine".


That was with CA finishes but should work with cast blanks. However, what is an intuitive technique to one person is not intuitive to another.
 

qquake

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Back about 13 years ago, I posted a thread on "To Shine or Not To Shine".


That was with CA finishes but should work with cast blanks. However, what is an intuitive technique to one person is not intuitive to another.
I can definitely see the difference in your two pens in your historical post. I tried 1500 MM, it it didn't make it very dull. In fact, it looks polished. I might try 600 sandpaper again, or maybe even 400 this time. I think 600 gave me the best results of all I've tried.
 

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qquake

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400 left visible scratches. 600 removed the scratches, but didn't leave it very matte. I'm about ready to give up and just polish the heck out of it. The pen has a satin finish, that will have to be good enough.
 

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qquake

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Here is the Tri-M-Ite and 600 together. I wanted to really compare them. There is more of a difference than I thought.
 

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TonyL

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I don't have a solution so I am reluctant to reply, but I don't think sanding is the answer to a matte or satin finish on acrylic. I conducted a Google search but couldn't come up with anything. I am speculating, but I am thinking about how to achieve "dulling" without the appearance of scratches....very much like a painter's canvas look (or a orange peel finish). Good luck with the pursuit!
 
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