Mold Max - Which one and why?

[Justturnin]

I am about to pull the trigger on some mold max. I am looking on their site and they have a few different options for about the same price. The Main difference I am seeing between them is the break and the tear. For Molds I am thinking the tear is more important than that the break so I am leaning towards the 25 but I am concerned it may be too stiff to push my larger blank out. Please provide your thoughts on which I should use. I am about to start making my negatives for my molds using some Poplar, Lacquer, Melamine and a little wax for release. While I make them I would like for the Mold Max to be in route.

I am thinking 1/2" walls w/ a 3/8" bottom, is that thick enough for each?

Also, is there a cheaper alternative to mold max that gives the same smooth results?

Also...also, I have done the silicone caulk mixed in soapy water and actually have several of them and they are fine but they do not last and have small pockets on the sides that are getting larger w/ every pour. I need something that will last and give me smooth walls to simplify cleaning up my blanks. Each silicone caulk mold cost $8-$10 in caulk to make so I figure if I can make a mold max mold for $20 that will last 3-4+ times longer then I come out ahead.
I also have several cutting board molds they also are fine but do not give me the efficiency I need. Tearing down the cutting board molds and having to reseal them after every 4-5 cast is a waste of time that I want to get away from.


I am bent on mold max or a similar product. Any input on the product would be appreciated.

 

[Ruby pen turning]

I was buying the molds that are colored blue. I do not know what silicon was used but it would last about 5 gallons of resin and begin to dry out and distort. I believe it was Jeff Powel who said he uses the 27T so I am trying it out. It is a foggy clear color and firmer then the other molds I have bought. So far everything is great

 

[Gilrock]

I bought Mold Max 30 because that's what the guy in the tutorial I read said to use. It worked great so I'm sticking with it.

 

[Padre]

Have you considered just purchasing the molds? By the time you invest in MoldMax 30 or 40, or Oomoo, thinner, make the mold masters, get all the peripherals you'll need (bowl, mixers, measuring cups, gloves, scale that reads in grams/ounces, yada, yada) then the clean-up..........in my humble estimation it is easier and less expensive to purchase them than make them. DAMHIKT.

 

[Justturnin]

Have you considered just purchasing the molds? By the time you invest in MoldMax 30 or 40, or Oomoo, thinner, make the mold masters, get all the peripherals you'll need (bowl, mixers, measuring cups, gloves, scale that reads in grams/ounces, yada, yada) then the clean-up..........in my humble estimation it is easier and less expensive to purchase them than make them. DAMHIKT.

My Molds are pretty specific and have come from a good bit of trial and a lot of error on my side. As for the extras, I already have this stuff, same items I use to mix Alumilite Minus a big bowl which I also have.

Also, I enjoy doing things myself and learning and once I have the masters I am set.

 

[bruce119]

I have made my own molds and have quite a few about 15. I have have used Mold Max 30 and have gotten now over 100 cycles out of them and there still going. I made my own because the ones made by others I have had issues with. Like you when it comes to production my needs are specific.

Not sure what you are making you didn't say. But it sounds like you are making straight blanks. Do you plan on using pressure that would effect your mold. I had problems with the resin saver type that have the built in plugs. With too much pressure say over 15 psi the tube would cut into the walls and your mold would tear very quickly. So if you plan on using pressure a thicker wall and a little more space. As far as maintenance I really don't do any. I pore P.R. preheat my molds to 150 and just pop them out and just blow off any left over dried P.R. out wit air. You can clean them with acetone just fine.

Maybe some of that helped??
.

 

[Justturnin]

I have made my own molds and have quite a few about 15. I have have used Mold Max 30 and have gotten now over 100 cycles out of them and there still going. I made my own because the ones made by others I have had issues with. Like you when it comes to production my needs are specific.

Not sure what you are making you didn't say. But it sounds like you are making straight blanks. Do you plan on using pressure that would effect your mold. I had problems with the resin saver type that have the built in plugs. With too much pressure say over 15 psi the tube would cut into the walls and your mold would tear very quickly. So if you plan on using pressure a thicker wall and a little more space. As far as maintenance I really don't do any. I pore P.R. preheat my molds to 150 and just pop them out and just blow off any left over dried P.R. out wit air. You can clean them with acetone just fine.

Maybe some of that helped??
.

Very Helpful. Thank you. These will be straight blanks WW style and they will be under pressure. Tht was one of my reasons for trying to go 1/2" walls becasue w/ my silicone caulk molds there are times where it will actually bulge out of the side and cause my resin to run low on those blanks.

 

[bruce119]

I have made my own molds and have quite a few about 15. I have have used Mold Max 30 and have gotten now over 100 cycles out of them and there still going. I made my own because the ones made by others I have had issues with. Like you when it comes to production my needs are specific.

Not sure what you are making you didn't say. But it sounds like you are making straight blanks. Do you plan on using pressure that would effect your mold. I had problems with the resin saver type that have the built in plugs. With too much pressure say over 15 psi the tube would cut into the walls and your mold would tear very quickly. So if you plan on using pressure a thicker wall and a little more space. As far as maintenance I really don't do any. I pore P.R. preheat my molds to 150 and just pop them out and just blow off any left over dried P.R. out wit air. You can clean them with acetone just fine.

Maybe some of that helped??
.

Very Helpful. Thank you. These will be straight blanks WW style and they will be under pressure. Tht was one of my reasons for trying to go 1/2" walls becasue w/ my silicone caulk molds there are times where it will actually bulge out of the side and cause my resin to run low on those blanks.

Depending on the pressure if you go over say 20psi your molds are going to distort. To help prevent this you mite want to try building a box out of something like 1/8" ply to give your mold support that would help against the building thing. There's always all kinds of headaches that pop up when casting.

Good Luck

 

[Justturnin]

Depending on the pressure if you go over say 20psi your molds are going to distort. To help prevent this you mite want to try building a box out of something like 1/8" ply to give your mold support that would help against the building thing. There's always all kinds of headaches that pop up when casting.

Good Luck

It's funny that you said this. On my current molds I have sticks on the long sides taped in place to prevent flexing. I considered placing some sort of aluminum rod or bar stock w/in the mold to prevent the flexing but was unsure if it would just sink. Then I though just pour in multiple pours, then I thought will the Mold Max stick to itself?

 

[PTownSubbie]

Depending on the pressure if you go over say 20psi your molds are going to distort. To help prevent this you mite want to try building a box out of something like 1/8" ply to give your mold support that would help against the building thing. There's always all kinds of headaches that pop up when casting.

Good Luck

It's funny that you said this. On my current molds I have sticks on the long sides taped in place to prevent flexing. I considered placing some sort of aluminum rod or bar stock w/in the mold to prevent the flexing but was unsure if it would just sink. Then I though just pour in multiple pours, then I thought will the Mold Max stick to itself?

Yes....the only thing that sticks to silicone is silicone..... :biggrin:

 

[bruce119]

Depending on the pressure if you go over say 20psi your molds are going to distort. To help prevent this you mite want to try building a box out of something like 1/8" ply to give your mold support that would help against the building thing. There's always all kinds of headaches that pop up when casting.

Good Luck

It's funny that you said this. On my current molds I have sticks on the long sides taped in place to prevent flexing. I considered placing some sort of aluminum rod or bar stock w/in the mold to prevent the flexing but was unsure if it would just sink. Then I though just pour in multiple pours, then I thought will the Mold Max stick to itself?

Interesting concept encasing a ridged martial inside the mold. This would help the squeeze of pressure but I can foresee a potential problem. The silicone will adhere to itself but not to the embedded object. Now when it comes time to remove your cast that could be a possible week spot. Flexing the mold to remove your cast could in a short time tear the silicone. I think care would have to be taken perhaps a thin bottom and push your cast up so can grab it with a tool.

Just a thought
.

 

[Justturnin]

Interesting concept encasing a ridged martial inside the mold. This would help the squeeze of pressure but I can foresee a potential problem. The silicone will adhere to itself but not to the embedded object. Now when it comes time to remove your cast that could be a possible week spot. Flexing the mold to remove your cast could in a short time tear the silicone. I think care would have to be taken perhaps a thin bottom and push your cast up so can grab it with a tool.

Just a thought
.

I thought about that too just thinking every time I deform the mold the aluminum would cut into it a little. I have a concept brewing in my head right now. I am going to build a prototype and see if it works. It is for an adjustable exterior brace that will be able to fit on my rack and put pressure against the various molds to prevent the flexing outward.

 

[PTownSubbie]

This is not on topic but I am going to throw it out there anyway since it is being discussed......

Why not just make your cavity deeper than needed for square and not worry about the LITTLE flex you get and allow the excess pour on top make up the difference?

I hope I conveyed that correctly!

 

[Justturnin]

This is not on topic but I am going to throw it out there anyway since it is being discussed......

Why not just make your cavity deeper than needed for square and not worry about the LITTLE flex you get and allow the excess pour on top make up the difference?

I hope I conveyed that correctly!

I wouldn't consider it off topic at all.

With these molds they will already be about an inch taller than the material I am casting because the material is very pourus and when I pour the alumilite it just sits on top until I apply the pressure so I have to be able to pour excess over the top as it is. If the mold flexes too much it will allow the excess to fall to the side of the blank an leave the top w/ no resin. If I make it even taller to account for the flex it turns into a lot of wasted resin and money over time.

 

[PTownSubbie]

You may be able to use screen material vice a round bar. Screen material may work alright but may still flex.....

Then again, if you made an enclosure to put the mold in you could save some silicone and pour thinner sides since they are not used for structure.... Just another thought.....

 

[Justturnin]

Then again, if you made an enclosure to put the mold in you could save some silicone and pour thinner sides since they are not used for structure.... Just another thought.....

So, what silicone do you use? About to order it. Torn between the 27t and the 30.

 

[PTownSubbie]

Then again, if you made an enclosure to put the mold in you could save some silicone and pour thinner sides since they are not used for structure.... Just another thought.....

So, what silicone do you use? About to order it. Torn between the 27t and the 30.

I used both OOMOO 25 and Mold Max 30. Anything in that hardness range will work fine.

 

[Justturnin]

Well the Mold Max 30 seems to be the common name I am hearing so I ordered a 1gl kit from them. Thanks everyone for your feedback. Off to build my masters.

 

[bruce119]

I will throw out some advise that mite save you a little latter. First I used Mold Max 30 and like it. Now they advise you to use vacuum after mixing and I do. It expands the air trapped by mixing and lets it rise to the top. makes for a very smooth mold (I've seen molds were vacuum was not used and it was obvious) anyway my point when you apply vacuum you need your silicone in a container at least 4xs the volume you mix. When vacuum is applied the trapped air will expand the silicone will rise and if your container is not large enough you will have a costly mess in your pot.

A word of advise from experience.
.

 

[Justturnin]

I will throw out some advise that mite save you a little latter. First I used Mold Max 30 and like it. Now they advise you to use vacuum after mixing and I do. It expands the air trapped by mixing and lets it rise to the top. makes for a very smooth mold (I've seen molds were vacuum was not used and it was obvious) anyway my point when you apply vacuum you need your silicone in a container at least 4xs the volume you mix. When vacuum is applied the trapped air will expand the silicone will rise and if your container is not large enough you will have a costly mess in your pot.

A word of advise from experience.
.

Sounds like the first time I applied vacuum to some PR....... Thanks for the heads up. I have one of my pressure pots set up as a vacuum chamber as well. The only down side is I cant see whats going on in there.

 

[bruce119]

The silicone will rise MUCH higher then resin. Think bubble gum the silicone is muck thicker and will make much larger bubbles before they pop. I put under vacuum for 5 minutes and then tilt the container back and forth to help the bubbles pop. That gets out 90% of the air. Then do your pore and baby sit for 1/2 hr or so and pop any bubbles that come to the surface. That's just cosmetics because the top will be your bottom. And a straight square mold not that bad but if you had a resin saver type with plugs sticking out that's a bubble trap.
.

 

[Curly]

I use Mold Max 30 for my moulds. I would use the 40 if I were casting under pressures where distortion was an issue.