MicroMesh or something else?

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GaryMGg

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Nov 23, 2006
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McIntosh, Florida, USA.
My 3"X6" set (1800 thru 12000) is finally washed up.
Time for replacing them.
These are probably 10 years old.

I used them to tune up a CA finish when needed.

What are y'all using these days?

Thanks for your input.
 
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Personally, I like to stick with what has worked for me, unless I had issues needing a tweak - then I would explore. I used Micromesh and Abranet and got used to their characteristics and was comfortable with them. If I ever turn again they will be in my 'toy box'. (I cleaned each set after each use, and didn't overly push their limits).
 
Check out Mark Mayo's finishing video technique using the three scotch pads and then Beall buffing system. I switched over from micro mesh to it and really like it much better.
 
Micro mesh pads will give you a decent finish. However, the unquestionably best polish for plastics (to include CA) is Magic Juice from Stadium Pen Blanks. It is a 6 step polish that will take you final product to the next level and it only requires a small amount of the "juice" to polish the whole blank on each step.
 
Switched from Micro Mesh pads to Dr. Kirk's stuff (Scratch Freee and Micro Magic polishing waxes) and haven't looked back. I also use Novus 2 for my CA finishes after the finest Micro Magic wax.
 
Check out Mark Mayo's finishing video technique using the three scotch pads and then Beall buffing system. I switched over from micro mesh to it and really like it much better.
Mark's videos prompted me to ask.
Might have missed the scotch pads; I'll have to go back to it.
I saw the Beall setup. So fast if you have multiple lathes. I don't but I think I have a spare motor sitting around doing nothing.
 
So far I've had my best results using micro mesh. Cheapest place I've found it is at International Violin. A 6x12 sheet is $7.60 compared to the prices I've found for a 3x6 sheet being around $4.50 at other sources.
If anyone has found it cheaper please let me know.
I have no affiliation with International Violin, just a happy customer.
 
I also used to use MM.

I switched to the 3M Zona Papers and liked it better.

Then I switched to buffing wheels. I use 800 wet, Mirlon 1500 pad, then buffing wheels with four different compounds: Tripoli, White Diamond, Ultra Fine, Fine (actually finer than Ultra Fine), then I use blue jewelers rouge and then renaissance wax and a clean buffing wheel.

I do not have a separate buffing lathe, but that is because I don't really have the space for one. I just switch over to the wheels when I am ready to buff.

I believe it to be faster and provide a better finish.
 
MM for me too. I keep 2 sets and alternate between them. I just get the 2x2 pad sizes also. I even bought the metal holder for them so I can stack them back in order. Lol
 
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So far I've had my best results using micro mesh. Cheapest place I've found it is at International Violin. A 6x12 sheet is $7.60 compared to the prices I've found for a 3x6 sheet being around $4.50 at other sources.
If anyone has found it cheaper please let me know.
I have no affiliation with International Violin, just a happy customer.
Have not checked lately but when I was buying the sheets instead of the pads I use to buy from https://micro-surface.com/micro-mesh-types/ I still use the sheets when I do a project that I use lemon oil as the finish on top of an exotic. brings to a super sheen but not too glossy. That is what is needed in flat work. Example.

new pen display stand.JPG
pen rack.JPG
 
I've gradually gotten away from micromesh. Since I'm going to polish anyway, micromesh is a lot of extra steps.

Nowadays, I put the CA on, and then level it with 1200 wet/dry sandpaper. I buy 8x10 sheets for a buck apiece on Amazon (https://amzn.to/4bEztCq) and cut them into 1" strips. Every pen barrel gets a fresh 3" strip. Wet sand radial at 900 rpm, then lengthwise. I go straight to white diamind buffing from there and done.
IMG_3362.jpeg
 
Another plus for Zona paper vs MM. I used to use MicroMesh for most of my stuff, but I've not been happy with it, so looked for alternatives. I now use a combination of dry sanding to 800, then wet sanding with automotive abrasive sheets from Norton and then the full Zona range, all done wet. I then use a three step automotive polish from Rupes (RUPES at Amazon) with a microfiber cloth, followed by a final buff with a 2 wheel system and blue compound. Sounds like a lot, but it goes quick and gives me a high shine without burning through. I realize some of the steps overlap, but it is minimal work and makes a nice, scratch free finish.

My process was proven out by an interesting presentation by an excellent speaker at the recent Mid Atlantic Turners Expo - Steve Wohlgemuth, who embarked on a five year study of the best ways to finish turnings, where he tried lots of alternatives in a controlled environment. His study used pretty exacting methods to compare lots of options, including micro mesh, polishing pastes, zona paper, buffing, magic juice and lots of others. He then took a 10x eye loop to each looking for scratches left in the finish and evolved a process similar to mine. Steve has given his presentation at the AAW events and will be a guest speaker at SWAT. If you get a chance, look him up - worth the time!

Kevin
 
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I'm still a MM fan. I like the cloth back because it allows me to feel the surface and applied pressure as I wet sand. I put CA on most so the process is usually the same. It's just a routine process Ive gotten used to because it works for me.
 
I've tried Micro Mesh, Zona, and Magic Juice. Magic Juice is best by far on any plastic or resin. I had one stabilized and dyed maple burl that I wasn't happy with just the MJ, so I backed up a step and used Zona on it and then 5 and 6 of the MJ, and it ended up much better.
 
Since this thread came back alive, I'll ask the question I was going to when it initially opened. Barry Gross is a long time friend and a mentor for me, and still after all these years often stops me in my tracks with great ideas. He related a story in a demo some time ago about a pen show where he was upset when a potential client pulled out an eye loop and looked closely at one of his pens - and then promptly handed the pen back to Barry and was about to walk away when Barry asked him what was wrong. Your finish has scratches in it still was the answer. Barry looked at the pen and felt it was well done, shiny, and pretty nice, but he then borrowed the eye loop and looked, and sure enough, the finish was not completely smooth. I've since went to a number of commercial pen shows and watched people shopping, and they do often pull out an eye loop to look closely at a pen's details.

So my question - when judging a finish, do you go by your eye and what you see when you look at it, or do you use something to give you a magnified look at how well you have done? In my earlier answer in the thread, I mentioned Steve Wohlgemuth's study of finishes and his process for getting a fine, scratch-less finish. He took things to an extreme with a lab microscope, but I made a lot of changes to my finishing process as I progressed - initially driven by Barry's story. How far do you go - and do you think a totally scratch free finish is really important on most pens or do you vary based on your perceived sale price of the pen? If you do use magnification, what do you use?

Kevin
 
If you do use magnification, what do you use?

Kevin
I use an Optivisor magnifier with +7 (about 2.75 times magnification) while sanding/polishing at the lathe and when buffing. Between that and a very bright point light source at an angle I've felt comfortable that I got the scratches out - but now you've planted a seed of doubt, I'll check with a 10x loupe (which I normally only use for nib adjustments and smoothing.)
 
I bought a 2x magnifying glass kit so I could check throughout the sanding and polishing process whether I still had scratches from the previous "step" left over. I haven't used it much lately. I'm happy with my finishes. If I was going to try to get into the luxury pen selling market, I'd probably use a loupe though.
 
Since this thread came back alive, I'll ask the question I was going to when it initially opened. Barry Gross is a long time friend and a mentor for me, and still after all these years often stops me in my tracks with great ideas. He related a story in a demo some time ago about a pen show where he was upset when a potential client pulled out an eye loop and looked closely at one of his pens - and then promptly handed the pen back to Barry and was about to walk away when Barry asked him what was wrong. Your finish has scratches in it still was the answer. Barry looked at the pen and felt it was well done, shiny, and pretty nice, but he then borrowed the eye loop and looked, and sure enough, the finish was not completely smooth. I've since went to a number of commercial pen shows and watched people shopping, and they do often pull out an eye loop to look closely at a pen's details.

So my question - when judging a finish, do you go by your eye and what you see when you look at it, or do you use something to give you a magnified look at how well you have done? In my earlier answer in the thread, I mentioned Steve Wohlgemuth's study of finishes and his process for getting a fine, scratch-less finish. He took things to an extreme with a lab microscope, but I made a lot of changes to my finishing process as I progressed - initially driven by Barry's story. How far do you go - and do you think a totally scratch free finish is really important on most pens or do you vary based on your perceived sale price of the pen? If you do use magnification, what do you use?

Kevin

I also have seen this behavior at pen shows (using a loupe to inspect finish), but usually on vintage pens where, I assume they are inspecting to determine the price they are willing to pay.

It does make me wonder though... are these pens people want to inspect with a loupe for looking at or writing with? :cool:
 
I feel there will always be some indication of machining with a hand made pen. Anyone using a loupe with enough magnification under a bright light will see something. I think it would drive me insane if I tried to remove every little indication that the pen was hand polished and buffed under 10X loupe magnification.

There are plenty of injection molded chemically polished factory made pens out there if somebody wants a pen that doesn't look hand made.
 
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