Kitless Anodised Fountain Pen
- Thread starter BradG
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gbpens
Member
Outstanding and your anodizing really makes the piece.
BradG
Member
Many thanks 
bluwolf
Member
Very nice Brad. But it begs the question, how did you mill the sides? Did you do it on the lathe or have you already bought a new toy...err... tool?
Mike
Mike
BradG
Member
I done it on the lathe Mike, by putting the pen in the tool holder (QTP, with V groove on tool holder) and mounting a 12mm slot cutter in the chuck. It give's you an X & Z axis if nothing else lol
I have actually purchased a vertical slide for the lathe, but I'm reluctant to drill holes in the cross slide to mount it. Think il just wait until I have the mill instead.
I have actually purchased a vertical slide for the lathe, but I'm reluctant to drill holes in the cross slide to mount it. Think il just wait until I have the mill instead.
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david44
Member
Rather nice - my problem is that I see too many ideas I'd like to have a go at! My shed isn't big enough and the managing director wouldn't agree to my taking over the house.
BradG
Member
Oh you can always pick up a small metal lathe! No excuse. I'm sure with your science background you will take to anodising quite nicely
Plan B is build a bigger Shed!
Stunning colour there Brad!!:biggrin:
I made a base plate for my Vert slide. Countersunk holes from under the plate for the slide and suitable holes in the corners of the plate for the cross slide t nut channels. :wink:
I made a base plate for my Vert slide. Countersunk holes from under the plate for the slide and suitable holes in the corners of the plate for the cross slide t nut channels. :wink:
BradG
Member
david44
Member
Have got a mini lathe (super conquest) as well as the small wood lathe. Shed full - site manager would veto extension plans - she's a gardener!
Joey-Nieves
Member
I've been doing some resurch on this, do you have any links to the method you prefer
Great pen Brad - I like the method mite try it out - what speed did you run the chuck at ?
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BradG
Member
Uh oh.....
Sounds like you're already equipped :wink: My anodising tank is 2.6 Litres, so consumes very little room. 5L sealed lid bucket holds the dye. that leaves you with just having to steal a saucepan to boil your parts to seal the anodic layer and you're good to go!
BradG
Member
On anodising? watch my video tutorials on my website
alchemistscorner
It was at 500
Nice work you're doing by the way. you're using Ferric by the looks of it for your etching?
On anodising? watch my video tutorials on my website
alchemistscorner
It was at 500
Great thanks brad - I use salt,copper sulfate and warm water for the etching .
BradG
Member
I have some copper sulphute for creating patinas. Looks like a nice result regardless.
not that you would want to on the last etched pen you posted as the smut gives it a nice character, but if you ever want to clean up the blackening from the etch process give it a few mins in dilute Nitric acid. it will dissolve all of the impurities which creates the dark soot look, but leave the aluminium untouched.
not that you would want to on the last etched pen you posted as the smut gives it a nice character, but if you ever want to clean up the blackening from the etch process give it a few mins in dilute Nitric acid. it will dissolve all of the impurities which creates the dark soot look, but leave the aluminium untouched.
Dalecamino
Local Chapter Leader
Awesome pen Brad! :wink:
Joey-Nieves
Member
Brad I watched the video, most informative one I've seen. I have 2 questions;
Joey
- Although you use lead, In other videos people use aluminum as cathodes, is this a short term solution?
- You mentioned polishing the part on the lathe various times, you ran out of time and it wasn't very clear. how does one polish the part without removing the dye?
- The part preparation on the video starts with sop and water, but It actually started in your shop, Is it safe to say, you sanded to the highest grit available and used a metal polish?
Joey
BradG
Member
Hi Joey
[*]Although you use lead, In other videos people use aluminum as cathodes, is this a short term solution?
Aluminium is actually the industry standard and there's nothing wrong with using it at all. Lead on the other hand can also be used as it won't react with sulphuric acid, just the same as you would find in a car battery for instance. I just happen to have a large roll of lead laying around, and would rather use that than sacrifice a lump of aluminium I could machine elsewhere :wink: you will see no difference in your results by using either.
[*]You mentioned polishing the part on the lathe various times, you ran out of time and it wasn't very clear. how does one polish the part without removing the dye?
by mounting the pieces on a mandrel and using a soft lint free piece of cloth with some plastic polish sold in car stores. no abrasives whatsoever. you only do this once the piece has been sealed in boiling water for 20-25 minutes. then the dye is sealed in. It is natural for a little dye to be on your cloth after polishing, don't worry.
[*]The part preparation on the video starts with sop and water, but It actually started in your shop, Is it safe to say, you sanded to the highest grit available and used a metal polish?
I sand upto around 12,000 using clean micromesh. I never use polish, as it leaves a waxy film on the piece which will ruin your anodising. sometimes I only sand to 1,200 as I dont want a polished look.
Compare these two pens:
Both of these have been anodised and dyed and cleaned exactly the same way. the only difference is one was polished to a high shine by sanding upto 12,000 before anodising, and the matte one took a bath in caustic soda for a few minutes so that the aluminium was very matte in appearance before anodising (Caution: fumes are nasty, and it will dissolve threads!)
[*]Although you use lead, In other videos people use aluminum as cathodes, is this a short term solution?
Aluminium is actually the industry standard and there's nothing wrong with using it at all. Lead on the other hand can also be used as it won't react with sulphuric acid, just the same as you would find in a car battery for instance. I just happen to have a large roll of lead laying around, and would rather use that than sacrifice a lump of aluminium I could machine elsewhere :wink: you will see no difference in your results by using either.
[*]You mentioned polishing the part on the lathe various times, you ran out of time and it wasn't very clear. how does one polish the part without removing the dye?
by mounting the pieces on a mandrel and using a soft lint free piece of cloth with some plastic polish sold in car stores. no abrasives whatsoever. you only do this once the piece has been sealed in boiling water for 20-25 minutes. then the dye is sealed in. It is natural for a little dye to be on your cloth after polishing, don't worry.
[*]The part preparation on the video starts with sop and water, but It actually started in your shop, Is it safe to say, you sanded to the highest grit available and used a metal polish?
I sand upto around 12,000 using clean micromesh. I never use polish, as it leaves a waxy film on the piece which will ruin your anodising. sometimes I only sand to 1,200 as I dont want a polished look.
Compare these two pens:
Both of these have been anodised and dyed and cleaned exactly the same way. the only difference is one was polished to a high shine by sanding upto 12,000 before anodising, and the matte one took a bath in caustic soda for a few minutes so that the aluminium was very matte in appearance before anodising (Caution: fumes are nasty, and it will dissolve threads!)
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BradG
Member
Same example but with blue
BradG
Member
No worries Jake, have fun with it!
BradG
Member
tjd
Member
Nice Looking pen Brad,