issue with HF dovetail jig

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Dale Allen

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Oct 27, 2012
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Massillon, OH
I think I can overcome the majority of shortcomings with this jig.
Not sure about this one.
During my first cut, after an hour of setup, I noticed the 2 boards were not tight together. I figured I was not careful enough on the test pieces so I went ahead. The joint needed some adjusting but was not terrible.
However, after checking the ends, all is square and true.
I took the unit apart and found the problem.
This is the face and top surfaces, where the boards lay. This is out an eighth of an inch across 3/4 of the bed surface. This is pretty stout metal and I'm not sure I can bend it to where it is at a right angle. I really don't have tools for this kind of thing.
At this point I'm not sure I want to try.
Maybe I should take it back and put the $35 toward a 4210 PC jig.
Any suggestions?
 

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Dale

There are so many of these units out there and all by different names. I do have the Porta Cable unit and yes it is a nice unit but very finicky and set up time is involved. But dead on accurate. There are also many other good quality units, Festool, Leigh, Keller,and some like Craftsman.

To your unit. I am guessing what you are saying when butting both boards they do not come to a perfect 90 degree angle and is throwing off your fit. I see a couple options. One take it back and get another. Try one from Grizzly or Rockler. Take a board and place on the edge and try to hammer it in shape. Or you can jury rig it and place strips of tape on the tail end (short fence). Build up the tape till it sits 90 degrees with the pin board. Keep tape on the very lower edge of the fence. Or make a wedge to compensate for the difference. I would not be inclined to do this but it is an option.
 
All good advise. Thanks John.
I decided in the last half hour that I really don't have to be this cheap when it comes to this craft and since the dresser I am building is going so well and the wood was bought at a good price.....why not.
I just bought the 4210 for $107 shipped and that is that. HF can have this back.
I should have know better considering my luck with their tools.
 
I'ld have grabbed a few 6" bar clamps and set them up to spread the lower leaves till the top was a true flat, and saw if I could use it that way ...


Of course, I don't have that jig, or even a router at this time, so I can't tell whether or not that would really work out for you.
 
I think you made the right choice, returning the HF. I bought one several years ago, on sale for $25. I'd like that $25 back. Although was able to make it work, I thought the quality of the joints was unsatisfactory.

I haven't used the Porter Cable or other versions. Instead, I bought The original Incra jig for a little less than what it costs now. I don't use it a lot, but I don't regret the purchase one bit.

BC39.jpg
 
Dale: being a tool collector, I have picked up many different styles and brands of dovetailing jigs over the years. Many fall short of their objectives, and some are just junk. The best ones for cutting dovetails are my Leigh 24" and my Japanese dovetail saws and chisels. I like the Leigh because I can cut many types of joints, cut large boards, and adjust the joints in any fashion and spaceing I care to. There are two factors that choosing a jig comes down too. The first being how much are you going to use it and what for. The second one is how much do you want to spend for the ease of use and accuracy of that machine. As for how to fix the problem of a jig that is not square. I would clamp the lower edge down on my work bench tightly. Find the surface that is not square, and with an adjustable pipe bar clamp, raise or lower that surface until it is 90 degrees and square to the adjoining surface. If, however your jig bends that easy, you made the wright choice by returning it and ordering a new one of higher quality. Jim S
 
Definitely take it back. I'm a huge fan of the Keller dovetail jig. It's big advantage over others is that the thickness and flatness of the stock does not affect the fit. The height of the bit does not affect the fit, so setup is incredibly easy. Any height variation in the bit only affects how deep the joint goes together, not how loose or tight it is. You can also use it upside down on the router table. It's just hands above all others, he just doesn't spend the money on marketing that others do.
 
Now that you have the jig, do yourself a favor and get a dedicated router for it. I just saw that Lowe's had Skils on sale for 50 bucks. Put the bit in, set it and leave it until it needs to be replaced. Makes doing dovetails a breeze when you don't have to fiddle with things every time you want to make one.
(The first router I bought when I was 16 was a Skil plunge. That's now my dedicated dovetail router)
 
StephenM said:
Now that you have the jig, do yourself a favor and get a dedicated router for it. I just saw that Lowe's had Skils on sale for 50 bucks. Put the bit in, set it and leave it until it needs to be replaced. Makes doing dovetails a breeze when you don't have to fiddle with things every time you want to make one.
(The first router I bought when I was 16 was a Skil plunge. That's now my dedicated dovetail router)
Click to expand...


I probably own about 14 or 16 routers myself. I many times designate a router to a specific job.
 
If I had 14 routers I'd need a bigger shop.:biggrin:

Well, I'm glad I got the PC 4210.
Boy what a machine!

This is one adjustment after about 40 minutes of setup.
This will be just fine with me.:smile:
 

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