How do I dry bass wood timber

[mdwilliams999]

A local historical site and museum has donated about a 12-15 section of a tree trunk (Linden tree (Bass wood)) to me hoping that I wood be able to dry and turn pens for them that they could sell in their gift shop, website, and museum donors. The tree was cut a year ago and the trunk has been cut into 3 foot sections. It has been sitting on the ground in the shade for about 1 year now. I just picked it up tonight, it is still pretty heavy (obviously still pretty wet, but the wwod seems to be in pretty good shape.

Does any one have any advice on how to dry it quickly so that it can be used? I was thinking of cutting it up to smaller sections, maybe 6/4 thick, stick it up and put it in my basement (which is very dry) which a dehumidifier.

Someone else told about a method where you cut it into smaller sections and boil it, wrap it in paper bags and it will be ready to turn within a few weeks. Got to say that seems a bit odd.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Mike

 

[alamocdc]

Mike, it defintely needs to be slabbed and stickered in a dry place to keep the checks from running rampant making the timber all but usable. Using 6/4 would be a good size so that you can allow for shrinkage and any warping that might occur as they finish drying. If you want to speed the drying along, there are several methods I've seen talked about (I've only used 2 of them, thus far). Once you get it slabbed, you can cut some into 6/4 square widths and long enough for a pen blank (I'd go about 6 inches). Now for the fun part:

1) You can boil the blanks. Yes, in water! Apparently, this process turns the water inside the blank to vapor which becomes pressurized and escapes the blank rather easily. Then let them acclimatize in your shop for 2 weeks and check them with a moisture meter. If you don't have a MM, then weigh each blank, or all of them together and record the weight. Repeat this every few days until the weight stays the same. This means they have no more water to give up.

2) You can soak them (weighted down) in DNA for a week or 2 (I'd go 2 minimum for maximum penetration). Then remove them and do the weight thing from method 1). The mechanism for this as I understand it follows: DNA mixes easily and readily with water. It also off gases (evaporates) much more quickly. Soaking the blanks in DNA causes this mixing so you are left with a more evaporative fluid in the blank.

3) You can microwave them for short bursts (about 45 seconds IIRC) then let them set for 10 minutes to cool and repeat. Weigh them after they have cooled and when they no longer change, they are ready. (I have used this method. It works, but can prove time consuming.)

4) My personal favorite: Find your self an old broken dish washer. I got mine free (easy to do using Freecycle). Gut it except for the racks (they come in rather handy for dying bowl blanks). Even remove the insulation. Mount a light fixture at one of the openings in the bottom of the DW. Insert a light bulb (60 watt is sufficient), plug it in and let 'er rip. Have a thermometer handy and check the unit several times a day. You don't want the temperature to get much above 90 F so you will have to turn the light on and off a few times (I'm going to install and thermostat in mine one of these days so I don't have to mess with it). Start weighing the blanks after about a week. They should be ready to turn in about 2 weeks. Bowl blanks may take a little longer.

How's that? Have fun!

 

[hunter-27]

Read this thread: http://www.penturners.org/forum/f14/microwave-drying-pen-blanks-9960/

 

[maxwell_smart007]

one year per inch of thickness is the rough time for drying to 'fully dry' - so uncut trees of any size will take about a decade unless you do something!

 

[edstreet]

What you need is a kiln, that will dry it properly and good. Chemicals and other harsh treatment, i.e. microwave, just damages the grain structure. Most wood will dry in about 2-3 years time. You also need to WAX the ends.

 

[low_48]

For pen blanks, I cut them 1" square by 6" long. I used some chicken wire to make some huge "envelopes", filled them with blanks, and hang them in the attic of the house. Dead dry in a couple weeks this year. For winter, I stack them on top of the main duct running from the furnace. Dry in no time during the winter. Both work well since the wood gets to cycle up and down in temp. Hardly loose any.