Here's my failure

[Stevej72]

This is my first attempt at a snake skin. I guess the guy that tanned the skins used Glycerin (I think) and I forgot to remove it before casting. So the PR didn't stick to the skin. Also the PR didn't get as hard as it should have, I assume from the glycerin mixing with it. Where the PR Is missing on the left of the picture is where I pealed some off. I have another one in the pot now, hopefully it will turn out better.

 

[stevers]

Thats' a shame Steve. Good learning experience for all us newbies tho. I had a failure with cactus as well. Pulled a vacuum and pulled out a bunch of air bubbles. Mesquiteman stepped up and explained the error of my ways. It has been nice that so many of us are doing this at this specific time. Lots of good info floating around.

And have you noticed there are three Steve's involved in this??? Pretty cool.

 

[Thumbs]

Stevej72, how do you remove the glycerin? How do you recognize it on the tanned skin or is it obvious when it is present on the tanned skins?[?]

 

[Darley]

Originally posted by Stevej72
<br />This is my first attempt at a snake skin. I guess the guy that tanned the skins used Glycerin (I think) and I forgot to remove it before casting. So the PR didn't stick to the skin. Also the PR didn't get as hard as it should have, I assume from the glycerin mixing with it. Where the PR Is missing on the left of the picture is where I pealed some off. I have another one in the pot now, hopefully it will turn out better.

Glycerin?? never heard about any one using glycerine for snake skin but I might be wrong for the procedure in the States, maybe Don may shime in to tell us about this glycerin matter. What did you use for the tube plug when casting?? could you explain your casting process??

edit: the only way you remove glycerin is to pour hot water over it

 

[its_virgil]

The skins I get are indeed tanned with a mix of glycerin and alcohol and I've been getting some castings that were not useable at all. Several were even worse than the one posted in this thread. Bruce Robbins and I have concluded that two things are making this happen. One is glycerin. I think some of the skins had more residual glycerin than others and these were causing some of the problems. The other problem we think is heat, although I use small amounts of catalyst, I was casting large quantities of resin in one large mold....16-20 ounces which contributes to the heat buildup. I've started cleaning the skins with isopropyl alcohol to remove the glycerin and I'm using the silicone rubber molds sold here by gadget and I'm using the ultrasonic jewelery cleaner to help degass the resin. My casting is back on track and I've cast 20 cigar blanks, 8 baron blanks and 8 slimline blanks with no problems at all. Thanks to Bruce for the help.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by Stevej72
<br />This is my first attempt at a snake skin. I guess the guy that tanned the skins used Glycerin (I think) and I forgot to remove it before casting. So the PR didn't stick to the skin. Also the PR didn't get as hard as it should have, I assume from the glycerin mixing with it. Where the PR Is missing on the left of the picture is where I pealed some off. I have another one in the pot now, hopefully it will turn out better.

 

[Stevej72]

He said he puts glycerin on as the final step. I searched online and found a procedure that uses it at: http://www.thetanneryinc.com/snakeskin.html
He said to soak it in denatured alcohol to remove it.

I used Don Ward's snake skin blanks instructions here: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2006/snakeskinblanks.pdf
I used rubber plugs to plug the ends, at the suggestion gketell, because my first attempt I had PR leak into the tubes.

Steve, there do seem to be a lot of Steves around.

 

[its_virgil]

I have also reduced the pressure to 20 psi and have no leakage into the tubes since reducing the pressure. Maybe I should revise the tutorial. The ultrasonic cleaner is sure easier than the vacuum pump.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by Stevej72
<br />He said he puts glycerin on as the final step. I searched online and found a procedure that uses it at: http://www.thetanneryinc.com/snakeskin.html
He said to soak it in denatured alcohol to remove it.

I used Don Ward's snake skin blanks instructions here: http://content.penturners.org/articles/2006/snakeskinblanks.pdf
I used rubber plugs to plug the ends, at the suggestion gketell, because my first attempt I had PR leak into the tubes.

Steve, there do seem to be a lot of Steves around.

 

[Darley]

Well! look like I learn something today regarding taning snake skin, but I don't understand the purpose of the glycerin, Don I use your snake skin but never wash them, skin glue very well on the tube with CA, glycerin is what you call mineral oil is it? never have this problem when casting beside 2 time when the skin disolved [] to much heat

Have to have a tutorial for this one ( snake skin tanning )

 

[its_virgil]

Serge,
I had not been cleaning them either, but I am now. I clean them with isopropyl (rubbing) alcohol now after having several castings go south on me. And yes, heat is a problem with the skins. Maybe I had a batch with more residual glycerin on them than usual. It only takes a moment to wipe them down with the alcohol and I will now continue to do so and let them dry thoroughly afterwards. I know alcohol evaporates quickly, but all I can find is 50% and I suppose the othe half is water. Anyway, my casting is back on track now.
Do a good turn daily!
Don

Originally posted by Darley
<br />Well! look like I learn something today regarding taning snake skin, but I don't understand the purpose of the glycerin, Don I use your snake skin but never wash them, skin glue very well on the tube with CA, glycerin is what you call mineral oil is it? never have this problem when casting beside 2 time when the skin disolved [] to much heat

Have to have a tutorial for this one ( snake skin tanning )